Contra Costa County Wine Heritage

Every year, Jancis Robinson’s website hosts a writing contest on different eonocentric topics, accepting submissions from the general public. 2021’s theme is focused on “old vine” plantings.

Though much of the content on the Jancis Robinson website remains behind a paywall, the final selections from each annual wine writing contest are freely available to the general public.

One contestant’s piece is dedicated to Contra Costa’s most prized ancient vineyard: the “Evangelho Vineyard” of Antioch.


Jancis Robinson
“WWC21: ‘Evangelho - The Vineyard at the End of the World’”

by Chris Howard
August 30, 2021

It appears that Mr Jake Neustadt, Viticulturalist Supreme of Bedrock Wine Company, shared several insights with the essay’s author. The “Evangelho Vineyard” is, most significantly, a living example of pre-phylloxera farming practices.

The passage of time reveals this vineyard’s relative strengths and weaknesses. 130-years of life testify to grapevines’ ability to endure adverse weather events and diseases/pests pressure.

Vigilant supervision, agricultural maintenance strategies, and conscientious interventions are needed to preserve these vines. A booming suburban population also threatens the old-growth vineyards of Antioch (and Oakley).


Please view the hand-sketched “Evangelho Vineyard” Grid Maps available on the JR WWC21 webpage

You won’t regret it!!

  • Key for Grape Varieties: Link

  • Evangelho Grid Map #1 (complete vineyard): Link

  • Evangelho Grid Map #2 (Block 5): Link

Though the above images accompanied Chris Howard’s WWC21 submission, and are posted on the Jancis Robinson website, I believe that the identification, charting, and creation of the “Evangelho Vineyard” grid maps were the sole work of Jake Neustadt and Bedrock Wine Company.


Image: “‘Evangelho’ vines and power lines looming up out of the fog” (Chris Howard submission on Jancis Robinson website)

Desire Lines’ 2021 Fall Release includes the 2020 vintage of their “Evangelho Vineyard” Red Wine for mailing list members:


"2020 ‘Evangelho Vineyard’ Red Wine:

“Our 2020 Evangelho Red Wine sits between the zesty 2018 and (modestly) richer 2019, stylistically – linear and fresh like the 2018 but a touch silkier on the palate, with a hint of the fruit sweetness and youthful exuberance that characterizes the 2019. As in previous vintages, the wine was fermented with 30% whole cluster under a submerged cap and aged for ten months in neutral 400L barrels. As I’ve said before, I love the 400L barrel size for Carignan – it retains freshness and builds tension like all large format barrels, but with a less reductive tendency than the 500L and 600L barrels that I prefer for Syrah and Mourvèdre. The Carignan gives the wine a singular juiciness and floral and red-fruit aromas, with a soft tannin profile and vibrant acidity. The inclusion of cluster adds spice to the nose, while the small portion of carbonic maceration and Mourvèdre add flesh to the palate. We model our winemaking after the great cru Beaujolais - wines that are delightful when young but age beautifully as well.”

Winery website: Evangelho Vineyard


Bedrock Conversations Podcast
Episode #21: Cody & Emily Rasmussen, Desire Lines
Alternate Link

"Husband and wife duo, Cody Rasmussen (Associate Winemaker, Bedrock & Owner, Desire Lines) and Emily Rasmussen (Owner, Desire Lines) discuss their Californian origin story, the early days of Bedrock, and their upcoming Fall release for their own label, Desire Lines.

" 01:24:10 - 2020 Evangelho Red Wine
"

Desire Lines Wines website:
https://desirelineswines.com/

1 Like

Post & Vine, a joint venture between Rebekah Wineburg and Erica Kincaid, has released its first red wine from Contra Costa County. This small producer originally bottled a single wine: a field blend from Mendocino’s “Testa Vineyard”. A Rosé from “Sandy Lane Vineyard” Carignan(e) was launched a few years afterwards.

from the 2021 Fall Release email:

“…A spirit of curiosity compelled us to search out other historic vineyards with old vine Carignane to learn more about how this variety expresses place. We are now ready to share the result of that investigation with you with our newest wine, the 2019 Post & Vine Contra Costa Carignane. From the ‘Sandy Lane Vineyard’, the same source as our Rosé of Carignane, this small production wine is bright and juicy with a thirst-quenching acidity…”.


"2019 Post & Vine Contra Costa Carignane

"Bright and fruity with a little spice, the 2019 Post & Vine Contra Costa Carignane is engaging and vibrant. Raspberry, blackberry and plummy fruit combine with fresh aromas of crushed rock and earthy spice followed by hints of violets and a silky texture. Lighter in body than the ‘Testa Vineyard’ Old Vine Field Blend, and made from 120-year-old vines planted in the sandy soils of Contra Costa, this wine is fun and fresh and can be served slightly chilled.

“72 cases produced”


Post and Vine website:

David Gates of Ridge Vineyards posted the following images on his Instagram page last month:



According to one of Mr Gates’ posts, the 2021 harvest in Antioch was down by about 50% in yields, as the East Bay has been throttled by two years of severe drought.

Ridge has bottled only a handful of wines from CoCo grapes over the past 3 decades. A vineyard-designate from “Evangelho” - spelled “Evangelo” - was produced from 1990 to 1993 (primarily Mataro). The “Bridgehead Vyd” in Oakley provided grapes for a single-vineyard Mataro from 1993 through 1997(?).


In 2018, Ridge returned to the area, and released two old-vine wines: “Evangelho Vyd” Zinfandel/Carignan/Mataro blend and “Gonsalves Vyd” Mataro. In 2019, the “Evangelho” red was primarily Carignan w/Zin, and the “Gonzalves” was Carignan.

I am not certain whether the “Gonsalves/Sandy Lane Vyd” Carignan will be offered again following the 2018 and '19 vintages.


Ridge Vineyards website:

On more than one occasion, I have written about how the City of Oakley contracted local grower Alan Lucchesi to excavate and replant a threatened parcel of ancient grapevines in order to guarantee their continued survival.

Christina Rasmussen, owner of Little Wine, wrote an essay on the Oakley Vineyard Transplant Project for Jancis Robinson’s 2021 Wine Writing Contest.

In “Alan’s Alicante”, author Christina Rasmussen details how local vineyard owner and manager Alan Lucchesi and his team went about digging up, transporting, and replanting 2,300 teinturier grapevines.


Jancis Robinson
“WWC21: Alan’s Alicante, California”
by Christina Rasmussen
August 26, 2021

"…Alan [Lucchesi], I discovered, is one of the farmers whose family has been tending vines for decades. In the 1930s, his grandparents emigrated to the United States from Lucca, Tuscany. They bought some land in Oakley, where they planted grapevines, almonds and apricots…It was in 1982 that Fred Cline, one of the grandchildren of Valeriano Jacuzzi, set up Cline Cellars…At the same time, Alan Lucchesi had begun taking the reins from his parents. Alan reflected:

“‘I began working for Fred in 1990; I was just helping him to man a few fields around here, and then I also started to sell some grapes to him. At first, it was just Fred, but soon after Bonny Doon and Ridge started coming into the area.’

“In addition to planting new vineyards in the 90s, Alan also safeguarded the old vines, and leased other vineyards. Today, he farms 700 acres. This might sound like a lot, but it’s estimated that the vineyard plantings of Oakley have diminished by two thirds over the past 100 years, with half of the region’s vineyards having been ripped up since 1980…”.



The author learns how centennarian grape vines were reestablished, in the “Walnut Meadows Vineyard”, a few hundred yards from their original home. Alan Lucchesi relates the circumstances that required uprooting over 2,000 Alicante Bouschet vines, as well as the steps taken by mayor Kevin Romick and city council members to protect the vines.


"…In early March 2011, Alan and a group of fellow workers dug up the 2,300 sleeping beauty Alicante Bouschet vines.

“‘You have to transplant around March - not while they’re growing, or they’ll never make it. You have to do it when they’re still sleeping.’

"Using backhoes, they took the vines out of their original home, and drove them 1.5 miles down the road to their new home—a narrow five-acre patch of land right next to a new housing development. Incredibly, when it came to replanting the vines, the ten-foot holes were dug by hand.

"…The vines’ root systems were between 15 and 20 feet long. As it would have been almost impossible to dig 20-foot holes, some roots had to be trimmed a bit shorter; not all that dissimilar to trimming roots when you receive plants from the nursery.

“‘That’s okay. They still take off. The feeder roots sit higher, and all of the main root balls were still there. It’s the vines themselves that are now 115-years-old, after all. We dug by hand because you need to make sure the vines fit right. You can’t just squish them in, because the roots are all different sizes; like spider legs; you need to dig around them and turn the vines around in the hole. And it’s pretty easy to dig sand, it’s not like hard dirt. You dig that hole pretty fast.’

"…He added that aside from being watered when planted, they are unirrigated, and organically tended.

“‘What was the rate of survival?’ I wondered.

“‘I don’t think we lost a single vine’…".




The City of Oakley originally contracted the vineyard transplant because a power substation was slated to be built where the vines first grew.

In 2007, Antioch’s “Evangelho Vineyard” had lost a parcel of 1,000 vines due to the demands of area growth.

Ironically, in both cases, the infrastructure plans ended up being cancelled!


More on Oakley’s Vineyard Transplant Project:

Wine Berserkers
Saving Old Vineyards - Economic vs Heritage thread
Early thread entry about transplantation / “Walnut Oaks Vineyard”
March 7, 2018

Saving Old Vineyards - Economic vs Heritage thread
“Vine Transplantation - 10 Years Later?”
August 4, 2021

delete

Looking at other photos posted to social media later the same day, I believe that the “JJ Vineyard” is the same site as the “José/Emerson/Lucchesi Vineyard”, located within the Dutch Slough Preserve.



The “JJ” in “JJ Vineyard” likely stands for “Joaquin José”, an Oakley citizen credited with establishing the vineyard over 100 years ago:

from “‘Lucchesi Vineyard’ @ Oakley’s Dutch Slough Preserve”, posted on June 14, 2021

“…The Vineyard with 3 Names:

· ‘Lucchesi Vineyard’ - Three Wine Company pays homage to area vineyard manager and grower Alan Lucchesi by evoking his name on Carignan bottlings from the Dutch Slough vines;

· ‘Emerson Vineyard’ - City of Oakley documents reference the Emerson family, historic cattle/dairy farmers and previous owners of 1/3 portion Dutch Slough Preserve which included the vineyard;

· ‘José Vineyard’ - Local citizens occasionally use the name of Joaquin José, who is said to have planted the site, to refer to the vineyard.”



Three Wine Company has bottled a single-vineyard “Lucchesi Vineyard” Carignan from this 13 acre, own-rooted site for several years.

In 2014, a Carignan was produced from the Bigelow Vineyard on Neroly Rd instead. I do not know the reason for the switch.


Three Wine Company website:

The following is from a Wilson Foreigner email sent today. The winery has produced a vineyard-designated Zinfandel from Contra Costa County for several years.

"Our 2018 ‘Del Barba Vineyard’ Zinfandel was named one of the ‘Year’s Best Zinfandels and Mixed Blacks’ in [u]Wine & Spirits[/u] magazine (June 2020 issue). With less than 15 cases remaining, make sure to stock up for the upcoming holidays! Use code CHEERS to receive 40% off your purchase.

2018 Wilson Foreigner Zinfandel ‘Del Barba Vineyard’, Contra Costa County:

“Ripe fruit aromatics, juicy berry and stone fruit flavors, and a finely grained texture. Full of sunshine. Will pair with absolutely anything on your table this Fall. 230 cases produced, $32 per bottle.”


"91 Points [u]Wine & Spirits[/u]:

"‘Wilson Foreigner is a partnership between Napa-based David Wilson and “foreigner” Chris Alheit, a South African vintner. They’re sourcing fruit throughout northern California for several wines, including this one, from an Oakley vineyard planted in 1910 and managed by the same family for three generations. It is a delightful wine in its youth, crunchy in its sweet cherry and red plum flavors, emphasizing delicacy and charm over heat and power. It seems years from peak expression; cellar. (230 cases)’

— Patrick Comiskey, Senior Correspondent"


Wilson Foreigner website:

*** EDIT ***

The 2019 vintage of Wilson Foreigner’s Contra Costa Zin was released on November 3, 2021. These details are from the winery’s 2021 Release email:


"…2019 Wilson Foreigner Zinfandel, ‘Del Barba Vineyard’, Contra Costa County

"The Zinfandel comes from a historic vineyard site in Contra Costa County, owned and managed by the past four generations of the Del Barba family. The vines are own-rooted and growing in the deep granitic sands of Oakley near the San Joaquin and Sacramento River deltas.

"The 2019 season yielded beautifully uniform and even-ripening clusters of Zinfandel. Our parcel was harvested at dawn on the thirtieth of August. Fifteen percent of the fruit was left as whole cluster, while the balance was de-stemmed, all went in to a concrete fermenter. Fermentation occurred with ambient yeasts and the must was pressed seventeen days after harvest. Primary and malolactic fermentation finished in neutral French oak barrels, no additions were made except for sulfur dioxide, and the wine was bottled without any fining or filtration.

“The wine has delicate aromatics, ripe berry, dried herb, and powdered cacao characteristics, all framed by the finely grained texture that this vineyard shows every year…”.

Recently, Sonoma Valley’s Abbot’s Passage and Beauregard Vineyards/The Lost Weekend (Santa Cruz Mountains) each have released bottlings from old-growth Contra Costa vineyards. Unfortunately, producers often are reluctant to identify their fruit sources.


· Abbot’s Passage 2019 “Verdant Wild

"The fruit for this wine was sourced from 100+ year-old vines of the historic Contra Costa AVA, where these verdant vines are rooted in well-drained, sandy soils. The grapes weather heat spikes during the day with cooling breezes of the Sacramento Delta & San Francisco Bay soothing them at night. This broad temperature shift allows the fruit an extended ripening period, leading to more balanced wines.

“This blend of Mourvèdre & Carignan delivers a beautiful brightness of dried cranberry and pomegranate, complimented by savory notes of forest floor & cedar that linger on the smooth, fine finish. After a five-day cold soak & 21-day maceration via gentle pumpovers, the wine was aged for 14 months in 35% new French oak.”

69% Mourvèdre, 31% Carignan
14.2% ABV
472 cases

Abbot’s PassageVerdant Wild” Instagram post

Winery Link: Product - Abbots Passage



· Beauregard Vineyards 2020 Lost Weekend Field Blend

The winery website does not provide details on the vinification methods used in making this Contra Costa-sourced bottling, nor is a breakdown of its component varieties listed. Beauregard purchased Zinfandel, Carignan, and Mourvedre grapes from a 135-year-old vineyard. The Edible Monterey Bay article states that the grapes composing the Lost Weekend Field Blend, a second label from Beauregard Vineyards, were from the “Sandy Lane Vineyard”.


Wine Industry Advisor
“Beauregard Vineyards Embarks on 76th Harvest in the Santa Cruz Mountains”

September 1, 2021


Edible Monterey Bay
“Grape Harvest Begins on the Central Coast”

by Laura Ness
August 17, 2021

“…Among the first wineries in the region to bring in grapes for Harvest 2021 was Beauregard Vineyards for Ryan’s second label, The Lost Weekend. Beauregard trucked in gorgeous old vine Carignan and Mourvèdre from ‘Sandy Lane Vineyard’ in Contra Costa County on August 11, to make their Lost Weekend Rosé. It was a night pick and the photos were amazing. Tasting Room Manager, Michael Phillips, says, ‘We are also producing our Lost Weekend Red from that vineyard this year, which is an Old Vine Field Blend, based on Zinfandel, and coming in as soon as this week’…”.


Winery Link: Beauregard Vineyards - Products - 2020 Lost Weekend Old Vine Field Blend


Abbot’s Passage website:
https://www.abbotspassage.com/

Beauregard / The Lost Weekend website:

The Horse Ranch Vineyard in Antioch, CA, has been mentioned on this thread in the past. Revolution Winery & Kitchen’s 2019 Alicante Bouschet was sourced exclusively from this old-growth Contra Costa vineyard.


Revolution Wines 2019 Alicante Bouschet

"Vineyard Notes: Gary Gonsalves farms about 100 acres of grapes in Contra Costa County, many of them 100+ year old plantings of intermixed Carignane, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, Grenache & Alicante Bouschet, among others.

"‘Horse Ranch Vineyard’ lies within the city of Antioch, less than a mile from the famous ‘Evangelho Vineyard’ & on the same dry sandy soil. It is a mixture of Mourvedre, Carignane & Alicante Bouschet planted around the turn of the 20th century.
Alicante itself is an interesting grape - one of the few teinturier varieties, meaning the flesh of the grape is also red. This gives it an intensity of color that is hard to match.

"Cellar Notes: For the second year in a row, we brought in 1 ton of these grapes & used a no-intervention approach in our winemaking. The bunches were foot-treaded into a macrobin with no sulfur or any other additions for a natural fermentation. The wine reached dryness in 15 days & was pressed to tank 2 days later. It was then racked into neutral oak - again without additions - until May of 2021, when it was bottled with no filtration.

Tasting Notes: A deep, dense wine with aromas of dark cherries, blackberry, coffee & dark chocolate, with grace notes of nutmeg & allspice. In the mouth, it is equally complex, with a juicy fruit attack, savory black olive notes & cocoa-like tannins on the finish.”

Instagram post highlighting the release of the 2019 “Horse Ranch Vyd” Alicante Bouschet: Link


Revolution Winery produces about 15 other bottlings, as well as various wines in cans. The “Horse Ranch Vyd” Ali Bou is currently its only Contra Costa County wine.

I have not determined the precise location of this vineyard.


Revolution Winery & Kitchen website:

With its Spring 2019 Release, Fine Disregard Wine Co. first launched a single-vineyard Contra Costa Mataro (Mourvèdre):


Fine Disregard has produced a couple of vintages of “Pato Vineyard” Mataro (Mourvèdre). On The Wine Makers podcast, Mike Schieffer shares how he and Kara Maraden gained access to this legendary old-vine site. He also discusses the difference between the “Pato Vyd” and vineyards in closer proximity to the Sacramento Delta:


The Wine Makers on Radio Misfits
Episode 176: Fine Disregard"

December 25, 2020

> At the 42-minute mark in the interview, Mike talks about the “Pato Vineyard” and Contra Costa Mataro.

PatoVineyard.2_x500~2.jpg
The Pato Vineyard, named in honor of Rich Pato, is adjacent to Diablo Water District’s Randall-Bold Treatment Plant in Oakley, CA. The diminutive Mori Vyd is situated on the same city block. The Planchon Vyd, found across the street from the “Pato Vyd”, is immediately South of the SW corner of Laurel Rd and Empire Ave.


Historic Vineyard Society profile: "Pato Vineyard


Fine Disregard website:

James Kennedy’s “Contra Costa Vineyards” for Google Maps:

Below are several newer small-production wines created from Contra Costa County grapes:



· El Vaquero Winery:
https://www.elvaquerowinery.com/

  • 2019 “One-Eyed Charlie” Carignane “Sandy Lane Vineyard” Contra Costa

Instagram/Picuki video clip: Link


· Jambe de Bois Wines:
https://www.jambedeboiswines.com/

  • 2017 Mourvèdre Contra Costa, “Castanho Vineyard

from the winery website’s “The Vineyards” page:

"‘Castanho Farms’
Elevation 92 ft

“The Contra Costa AVA is home to many generational family farms. Most of what you see are almond orchards, that is where the money is. The small amount of famers who choose to grow grapes are those with passion and commitment. Castanho Farms is a small family owned grape growing operation in Oakley, CA just south of the river delta. Grown in sand deposits 100 ft deep, ‘Castanho Vineyard’ has some of the oldest Mourvèdre vines in California. The warm weather helps the Mourvèdre ripen to its full potential, making delicious wine that tastes of dark cherries and pepper.”

> Note: The “Castanho Vineyard” was planted in 1981. I do not understand the above claim (i.e., “‘Castanho Vineyard’ has some of the oldest Mourvèdre vines in California”).


· McKahn Family Cellars:
https://mckahnfamilycellars.com/

  • 2019 Carignane Contra Costa, “Sandy Lane Vineyard

from the Data Sheet:

“…In August of 2019 I received a text message from a colleague of mine that an old-vine vineyard in Oakley, in far east Contra Costa County, had excess Carignane for sale. The vineyard’s name was ‘Sandy Lane’, and by reputation alone I was intrigued. I had never made Carignane before; or ‘Kerrigan’ as every Carignane grower in California calls it. There is countless acreage of it in the Languedoc in France, but in California it is much more scarce. This particular vineyard is over 100 years old and is planted on its own roots in deep sand. It’s impossible for me to explain how incredible it is to make wine from a vineyard that was planted so long ago. - Mike McKahn”


· Vin de California (VDC):
https://www.vdcwine.com/

Adam Vourvoulis’ Vin de California was featured in the March, 2021, issue of Food & Wine magazine.


· Wonderwerk LA:
https://www.wonderwerkla.com/

According to the winery website details for the 2020 vintage “Free Your Mind” bottling, the Carignan grapes were sourced from the “Sandy Lane Vineyard” in Antioch, while the Riesling came from the “Zabala Vineyard” in Arroyo Seco AVA.


· Zumo Wine:
https://www.zumowine.com

“Zumito Frizbee” was produced from Verdelho juice pressed over the skins of Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The wine is packaged in 500ml crown-capped bottles.

Fellow Wine Berserker Ken Zinns first mentioned Zumo on this thread a couple of years ago. Tom Morgan’s “Evina Vineyard” in Knightsen, CA, is farmed according to sustainable practices. A brief profile of Zumo Wine can be found in an Imbibe! magazine article from November, 2019.


This is another example of the “Sandy Lane Vineyard” designation being applied to Gonsalves family (Sandy Lane Properties) viticultural sites that are NOT traditionally associated with this place-name.

In my humble opinion, confusion could be avoided if the “Sandy Lane Vineyard” name was used only to describe this old-growth vineyard.


Cellartracker link for El Vaquero label image: 2019 El Vaquero Carignane One-Eyed Charlie Sandy Lane Vineyard - CellarTracker

The Winter 2021 Release from Bedrock Wine Company includes the most recent “Pato Vineyard” field blend and “Evangelho Vineyard’s” reserve wine, “Areio e Vento e Amor”:


Bedrock Wine Company currently farms these two eastern Contra Costa vineyards. Details about the current offerings can be found in the latest Bedrock Wine Conversations podcast:

“Episode #24 - 2021 Winter Release”
November 7, 2021

· 50:51: 2020 “Pato Vineyard” Heritage Wine

· 58:57: 2020 “Evangelho” “Areio e Vento e Amor” Red

It is stated during the podcast that an ancient parcel of vines neighboring the “Evangelho Vyd” is slated to be uprooted. Contra Costa’s dwindling acreage continually erodes under the pressures of suburban sprawl (around the 51:53 minute-mark).

It is presumed that northeastern Antioch once was one large vineyard. As the surviving blocks now are divided between several landowners, this vast field of own-rooted vines is unlikely to endure intact.


2020 ‘Pato Vineyard’ Heritage Wine, Contra Costa County

“Planted in the early-1900s, ‘Pato Vineyard’ sits on the southern edge of the deep sands that define Oakley. One of the most historically famous vineyards in the area, we have been proud to be its current farming guardian since 2014. Always a darker, more richly fruited example of Oakley this year’s wine features a higher than typical level of Mataro/Mourvedre in the final blend as it was an exceptionally strong year for the variety at the site. As usual, a small amount of Petite Sirah adds a deep, dark but suave note to the final wine. Thanks to the supple structure imparted by the sandy soils, this wine can be enjoyed for its sheer delicious factor early on but will also reward some time in the cellar.”


According to MTP & Chris’ discussion on the 24th episode of the Bedrock Conversations podcast, roughly equal proportions of Mataro and Zinfandel make up the majority of the 2020 “Pato Vyd” red wine. This year’s blend consists of only 10% Petite Sirah, significantly less than in prior vintages.

The Zinfandel component of the 2020 bottling came from the “Mori Vineyard”, a miniscule planting located on the same piece of land as “Pato”. Both old-growth plots are leased from the Contra Costa Water District in Oakley, CA. Turley Cellars also sources fruit from the “Mori Vyd”, which is blended into the “Duarte Vyd” Zinfandel.


"2020 ‘Evangelho Vineyard’ ‘Areio e Vento e Amor,’ Contra Costa County

“Our ode to Frank Evangelho (which translates from Portuguese to ‘sand and wind and love’) is based around the most distinct block at ‘Evangelho Vineyard’. Planted on a west-facing slope of beach sand, the block is a field-blend of Mataro, Zinfandel, Carignan and Palomino and always makes a wine that we feel is the ‘essence’ of ‘Evangelho’ and this historic section of Contra Costa County more broadly. Fermented in a two-ton open-top tank with 40% whole-cluster and raised in puncheon and dem-muid the wine oozes with dark Mataro fruit and spice leavened by the sappiness of Zinfandel and crunch of Carignan. It was a particularly strong year for Mataro at ‘Evangelho’, and this wine showcases that nicely.”


The “Areio e Vento e Amor” red wine is produced from the most treasured section of the “Evangelho Vyd”. Only ~700 vines make up this Mourvèdre-heavy block. The winemaking protocols differ from those implemented in Bedrock’s “Evangelho” Heritage bottling. Manual punchdowns, rather than pumpovers, and the use of smaller barrels in the cellar result in a more structured and age-worthy interpretation of Contra Costa’s sunny, wind-swept sandscape.



Bedrock Wine Company website:
https://bedrockwineco.com/

Ridge Vineyards has released the 2019 vintage “Evangelho Vyd” red wine:


"2019 ‘Evangelho’ Red Wine
Contra Costa County

"(47% Carignane, 29% Zinfandel, 24% Mataro)
14.1% ABV "

Winemaking Notes: Deep garnet red color with aromas of cherry, dried herbs, dusty mineral, and leather. Juicy red berries on entry, medium body, elegant tannins, and a spicy, long finish. JO (2/21)”

19XEV-3_600X431.jpg
Vintage Notes: The growing season began cool and wet but a mild, dry summer produced beautiful fruit from these 130-year-old vines. The Carignane and Zinfandel were harvested in late August. Mataro required more heat and days to ripen and was picked in early September. Fermented separately, the crushed grapes were pumped over twice a day for full extraction. The three varieties were then assembled by taste and aged eighteen months in barrel. Enjoyable now, the wine will develop further over the next eight to ten years. (1/21)”

Growing Season:
Rainfall: 12 inches (below normal)
Bloom: Early May
Weather: Warm spring and hot summer days, with cooling afternoon Delta winds”

Winemaking:
Harvest Dates: 23 August – 3 September
Grapes: Average Brix 23.0˚
TA: 6.68 g/L
pH: 3.33
Fermentation: 100% natural primary and secondary fermentation; 100% floating cap; pressed at eight days.
Barrels: 100% air-dried American oak barrels (100% Appalachia), 15% new, 26% four years-old, 33% five years-old, and 26% six years-old.
Aging: Eighteen months in barrel”

“‘Evangelho Vineyard’ grapes, hand-harvested; destemmed and crushed; fermented on the native yeasts, followed by full malolactic on the naturally occurring bacteria; oak from barrel aging; minimum effective sulfur; 35ppm at crush, 76ppm during aging. Pad filtered at bottling. In keeping with our philosophy of minimal intervention, this is the sum of our actions.”

"Press:
"OwenBargreen.com: 96 Points “The 2019 ‘Evangelho’ combines 47% Carignane, 29% Zinfandel and the remainder Mataro. Inky and intense once in the glass, the brilliant core of huckleberry, smoke and creme de violette all come together beautifully on the palate. With a generous texture and good length, this outstanding, one of a kind blend, will cellar well for another fifteen years.” -Owen Bargreen (August 2021)

“Blue Lifestyle: 93 Points “Fresh and bright Carignane-dominated wine with silky texture and an elegant style derived from 130 year-old vines; aging potential.” -Anthony Dias Blue (September 2021)”


Ridge Vineyards Blog
“Evangelho Vineyard: Ancient Vines Endure Against All Odds”



Ridge Vineyards website:

Apparently, I snoozed through the inaugural release of the “Evangelho Vineyard” Mourvèdre from Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! - Kate & Hardy Wallace’s new project!


Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah!
"2020 ‘Evangelho Old Vine Music’
Never Miss an Evangelho!
(100 Cases Produced)

  • 100% Whole Cluster Old Vine Mourvèdre
  • 131 Year-Old-Vines
  • Dry-Farmed
  • 13% ABV"

*** Click Here ***

Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! website:
https://winecoyeah.com/




Grape Live
"Wine of the Day December 23, 2022: 2020 Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah!, Old Vine Mourvèdre, Evangehlo Vineyard, Contra Costa County"

The celebration of National Zinfandel Day may have passed, but blog entries like the one below can aid in determining the location and varietal makeup of certain Contra Costa vineyards.


Grape Experiences
“The California Zinfandel Trail Leads to three 2016 Zinfandel Live Oak Contra Costa County”
November 16, 2021
by Cindy Rynning

"Who’s with me in celebrating National Zinfandel Day (click here) on Wednesday November 17? The Zinfandel Advocates & Producers have a mission to preserve California’s iconic vineyards upon which America’s grape, Zinfandel, is produced.

"…Sent as a sample, I’ve been enjoying three 2016 Zinfandel ‘Live Oak’ Contra Costa County ($38). The vineyard was planted in 1885 by Italian immigrant farmers, Spike and Guido Mazzoni and is recognized for its ‘massive concentration, silken texture and signature core of luscious raspberry to boysenberry fruit.’ Composed of two small, separate blocks, the ‘Mazzoni block’ is mostly Zinfandel in a field blend with Petite Sirah, Carignane, Mataro and Alicante Bouschet with a bit of Muscat of Alexandria. The 1.5-acre ‘Live Oak block’ is 100% Zinfandel.

“…Comprised of 77% Zinfandel, 12% Petite Sirah, 9% Carignane and 2% Alicante Bouschet, the wine is a true example of ancient vine concentration…”.


Historic Vineyard Society
“Mazzoni-Live Oak Vineyard” profile:
https://historicvineyardsociety.org/vineyard/live-oak
“Mazzoni Vyd”: 5181 Live Oak Ave, Oakley
“Live Oak Vyd”: ???

"…The old block (about 2.5 acres) is a classic field blend consisting mainly of Zinfandel but with rouge vines of Mataro and Carignane blended in. A few vines of Muscat Alexandria and one vine of Rose of Peru also are in the mix.

“The balance of the vineyard (5.5 acres) was planted to Petite Sirah in 1998.”
Guido Mazzoni (July 9, 1909 - January, 1987)
On a separate note, I felt it necessary to give some overdue attention to the producers located in the western part of Contra Costa County.


Abio Properties
“East Bay Wine Tasting: Luscious Sips”

"…Contra Costa County Wineries

Campos Family Vineyards 3501 Byer Rd., Byron

Bhachu Vineyards Call 925.370.0723 for information on how to visit this Alhambra Valley winery in Martinez.

Bloomfield Vineyards Get a taste at Coco’s (the Contra Costa County Wine Company) at 633 First St. in Brentwood.

Four Fools Winery An urban winery set on San Pablo Bay, Four Fools puts the fun in fine wine by hosting on-going events like Food Truck Thursdays and monthly Sunday car shows. 13 Pacific Ave., Rodeo

Hannah Nicole Vineyards 6700 Balfour Rd., Brentwood

Shadowbrook Winery 1 Meritage Ln., Walnut Creek

Tamayo Family Vineyards They are temporarily closed for tours and tastings but are open for online order pickups. 2155 Elkins Way, Suite H, Brentwood

Viano Vineyards This beautiful gem tucked away in Martinez is located on a century-old vineyard. The family estate is now run by its 4th and 5th generations. Viano is known for casual tastings and family-friendly vibe. 150 Morello Ave., Martinez "


Three Wine Company website:

The Contra Costa County Historical Society has an unique archive of area maps, photographs, and other hard-to-find records. The California Revealed website features numerous 19th Century parcel maps - like those of Contra Costa.

California Revealed
Collection: Contra Costa County Historical Society
Contra Costa County Tax Assessor’s Maps
All Maps:
“Contra Costa County (Calif.). Assessor’s Deputies”

All Parcel Maps for Antioch

“Handwritten and colored map of T1N R1E, T1N R2E, T2N R1E and T2N R2E in Contra Costa County, California. Includes the land surrounding the present-day locations of Antioch, Brentwood, and Oakley with landowner names and school districts.”

“Handwritten and colored map of T1N R1E, T1N R2E ,T2N R1E, T2N R2E and New York Grant and Marsh Grant in Contra Costa County, California. Includes the land surrounding the present-day locations of Antioch, Brentwood, and Oakley with landowner names and school districts.”

“Handwritten and colored map of T1N R2E and T2N R2E in Contra Costa County, California. Includes the land surrounding the present-day locations of Antioch, Brentwood, and Oakley with landowner names and school districts.”

Compare some of the old parcel maps with a modern Public Land Survey System Maps view of Antioch & Oakley:

Need help understanding PLSS?

The map detail below encompasses the following area :

  • Western Boundary - from A Street, Antioch
  • Southern Boundary - imaginary line W/E from Antioch Municipal Reservoir to Carpenter Road, Oakley
  • Eastern Boundary - Live Oak Road, Oakley
  • Northern Boundary - San Joaquin-Sacramento Bay



Antioch’s old-vine sites North of E 18th St, like the “Evangelho Vyd”, appear to be located on the Wilbur property (N of dotted line in Section 16).

The “Bridgehead Vineyard” is situated on land once owned by Joseph Ruckstuhl (sometimes spelled “Ruchstuhl” or “Ruckslatt”).

It is difficult to find information about east CoCo viticulture during the late 19th and early 20th Centuries. Parcels belonging to known grape-growers are identified with colored dots:


Blue: “Ruckstuhl family”

Ancestry
“Joseph Leo Ruckstuhl”

“Born in Oakley, Contra Costa, California, USA, on 13 Dec 1891, to Joseph Ruckstuhl and Josephine M Sprenger. Joseph Leo Ruckstuhl married Anita M. Kelley and had 1 child. He passed away on 15 Dec 1966 in Antioch, Contra Costa, CA.”

“Contra Costa Wine Heritage” post: “Ruckstuhl Vineyards”


Red: “Viera family”

Ancestry
“Cyril Viera”

“Born in Oakley, Contra Costa, California, United States, on 1888 to Manuel Rodrigues Viera and Elizabeth Agnes Whelihan. Cyril Viera passed away on 04 Oct 1910, in San Francisco, California, United States.”

Google Books
Pacific Rural Press, Volumes 67-68
January 30, 1904
“Mr Manuel Viera”:
“Agricultural Review: Contra Costa County” (p.70)




Green: “Trembath family”

Joseph Trembath’s property is identified and mapped on this page from the Bureau of Land Management GLO Records website. A very small plot of +130-year-old Carignan vines still exists!

Geni website
“Richard Trembath, Jr”


Images of America: Antioch, printed in 2005, features many photographs of early modern citizens of the Antioch/Oakley area. The three families mentioned above receive some attention by the author(s).

Google Books
Images of America: Antioch
Arcadia Publishing, 2005




According to the text, Antioch’s eastern city limits once were marked by 10th Street. Most local farms were to the East, beyond A Street, along Iron House Rd. Today, Iron House Rd is known as East 18th Street (and Main Street in Oakley).

The “Evangelho Vyd”, “Bridgehead Vyd” (in Oakley), and smaller old-vine plantings once were planted and tended by families like the Vieras, Trembaths, and Ruckstuhls.

“…Marsh Creek drains into the San Joaquin River not far from its mouth and this section of Contra Costa County, east of the Mount Diablo Range, rather resembles the great Central Valley. In the 1880s a considerable acreage of the sandy valley land between Antioch and Brentwood was planted to vineyard; of the several wineries built there, the largest were those of Joseph Miller and Joseph Ruckstuhl. Miller, a native of Portugal, had about twenty acres in Zinfandel. Ruckstuhl, a short, stocky Swiss, also specialized in Zinfandel and found a market for his wine in the eastern states. The same family has kept this property near the town of Oakley, and although the winery has not been operated since Prohibition, much of their land and that of others in the area is still in vineyard.”

Antioch Interactive Map:
http://www.antiochprospector.com

Contra Costa County Historical Society:
http://www.cocohistory.com/

“Stories of California’s Azorean Immigrants”
by Christopher A Howard
https://www.academia.edu/51010064/Stories_of_California_Azorean_Immigrants

Google Books
Contra Costa Farm Bureau Monthly, Volumes 1-4 (1918)

Internet Archive
Alameda and Contra Costa Counties Telephone Directory (1904)
by Sunset Telephone and Telegraph Company
Search Results: “Antioch”

Alameda and Contra Costa Counties Directory, for 1871-72
Publisher: Sacramento County Directory Pub. Co.
Search Results: “Antioch”

Google Books
Directory of the Grape Growers… (1891)
California Board of State Viticultural Commissioners
A.J. Johnson, Superintendent (254 pages)
Search Results: “Antioch”

Below are several historical resources, including newspaper issues, books, and maps. Current Contra Costa Interactive Map websites are listed as well.

Parcel Quest Lite is a great tool when searching for specific details.


Contra Costa Newspaper Archives:

Digital Reel
Collection: Contra Costa County Library
Newspaper Archives:
https://dr652c.bmiimaging.com/index?datasetName=Contra%20Costa%20County%20Library

Contra Costa County Library
Historical Newspaper Holdings:

California Digital Newspaper Collection
Search by County: Contra Costa

Library of Congress
Chronicling America Newspaper Archive:

Google Newspaper Archives:
https://news.google.com/newspapers


Contra Costa Historical Texts:

Internet Archive:
San Francisco Public Library

Hathi Trust
History of Contra Costa County, California…
(1926)
by J. P. Munro-Fraser
Published by Historic Record Co, Los Angeles

Hathi Trust
Contra Costa Farm Bureau Monthly
, Vol. 1-4 (1914-1918)

Hathi Trust
Illustrations of Contra Costa Co. California,
with Historical Sketch
(1878)
Published by Smith & Elliot, Oakland

Contra Costa Maps:

Internet Archive
Collection: Contra Costa County Historical Society - Maps

Hathi Trust
Search Results: “Contra Costa County Historical Society”

County of Contra Costa
Maps & Property Information
page:

· CCMaps site

“The County’s portal for on-line property information is CCMAP. Browse to the CCMap Website for information on individual parcels: - Property data such as building square footage and lot size.”

· ParcelQuest Lite (Assessor Maps and Property Information)

“The ParcelQuest Lite search tool allows you to view parcel maps, assessed values, and details about houses in a simple and easy-to-use way.”

Antioch Prospector site

City of Antioch
Public Works Department
Geographical Information Systems Map Gallery


Contra Costa County Public Works Department
Laserfiche Weblink:

  • Recorded Maps (Subdivisions, Minor Subdivisions, Records of Survey and Corner Records)
  • Assessor Parcel Books which are annotated with additional map references
  • Archived Assessor Parcel Books which include superseded pages

Comparing the 1892 Public Land Survey Map of Northeast Contra Costa County with similar maps provides an idea of its scope and scale.


1900’s PLSS Map of Eastern Antioch and Oakley
Detail of Antioch Oakley early 20th C Map~2(1).png
Modern PLSS map depicting Township 2 North Range 2 East

Don’s Notes
Geography: US Public Land Survey System

Glendale Community College
Geography: Prof. Lynn Newman
“Locating Features Using the US PLSS (Township and Range) & Google Earth”

As previously cited on this thread, San Francisco Estuary Institute’s “Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta Historical Ecology Study” reveals how different the shorelines were +100 years ago compared with today.



ARC GIS REST Services Interactive Map
SFEI Delta Maps Directory
“Base Maps / Tographical Maps of Early 1900s Delta Area”:

https://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmap.dfg.ca.gov%2Farcgis%2Frest%2Fservices%2FBase_Maps%2FTopo_Delta_Early_1900s%2FImageServer&source=sd


If someone was sufficiently tech-savvy, I’d imagine he/she could superimpose images of Antioch and Oakley’s 1892 Parcel Maps onto the modern landscape, accounting for the changes along the shoreline and Land usage.

· East Antioch/West Oakley Parcel Map, 1892

· West Oakley Parcel Map, 1892

The 1892 Parcel Maps also could be cross-referenced with the grape-growers named in the following book to determine probable locations of contemporary vineyards.

1891 Names Antioch Grape Growers.png
Directory of the Grape Growers: Wine Makers and Distillers of California (1891)
Board of State Viticultural Commissioners

SFEI
“Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta Historical Ecology Study” website:
https://www.sfeiparksDeltaHEStudy
*** EDIT ***

The Northwest section of Oakley also experienced changes in its shoreline over the course of the 20th Century. Today, nature preserves (Big Break, Dutch Slough) serve as buffer zones between the Delta and civilization, limiting the effects of erosion.



On the East Bay Parks website, “Big Break Regional Shoreline’s” “History” profile states the following:

"…The entire Delta was dramatically transformed by the California Gold Rush, which accelerated the settlement of the Delta and the substantial land reclamation that changed the Delta area’s environment. Unsuccessful Forty-Niners returned to the Delta from the Motherlode to farm the rich soils. Because of the annual flooding, they erected crude levees. In the 1870s, the clamshell dredge enabled farmers to erect more stable and extensive levees.

“By 1930, Delta reclamation was almost complete, with some 57 man-made islands encompassing over 550,000 acres. To this day, agriculture is the primary land use, particularly the production of dry grains, asparagus and other specialty crops. The name ‘Big Break’ comes from a 1928 break in the levee that separated an asparagus farm from the San Joaquin River and Dutch Slough.


Cline Cellars’ “Big Break Vineyard” was named after the devastating levee breach. Today, a single-vineyard Zinfandel, the 9-acre “Small Berry” Mourvèdre plot, and the “Small Berry” Grenache are sourced from this location. The Grenache vines are only 40 years old, whereas the rest of the vines in the “Big Break Vyd” are around 100 years of age.


Old Cline Cellars website:
1995 “Big Break Vyd” Zinfandel"Vineyards: The ‘Big Break Vineyard’, named for Big Break Road which runs adjacent to the block, has traditionally produced one of our most powerful and individual lots of Zinfandel. An early ripener, ‘Big Break’ Zinfandel is year in and out among the first lots of grapes we pick.

"…The combination of extremely sandy, well-drained soils; dry-farming; century old, head-trained vines and the unique band of cooling air from the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers that favors Oakley’s best vineyard sites create a synergy of elements that is ideal for ripening Zinfandel and expressing the full character of the fruit.

“…Winemakers Comments: Here, at the winery, we feel that Zinfandel is perhaps the only grape in California that merits being bottle as a vineyard-designated lot. Much is the same way as the famed Pinot Noirs of Burgundy, certain old-vine Zinfandel vineyards have shown such unique and individual character that they could be considered California’s true Grand Crus. The ‘Big Break’ vineyard definitely is one such vineyard site. Always one of our most robust wines, the 1995 in particular oozes with power, revealing a dark wild berry, exotic spice, chocolate and ripe peach character.”
According to a comment by Brian Ojalvo of West of Temperance, Sean Thackrey’sTaurus” Mourvedre wines were produced from this old-vine site in certain vintages.


East Bay Regional Parks District website:
“Big Break Regional Shoreline”

Wine Berserkers
“Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta Maps & Issues”

April 11, 2022

I am including a map from Antioch’s “East 18th Street Specific Plan” (Sept. 2001) for comparison with the 1892 Parcel Map image:






According to the 20-year-old map’s “Current Ownership and Use Summary” guide, vineyards occupied 8 of the 28 parcels.

Pacific Gas & Electric (PG&E) still retains easements/right-of-way for lands traversed by its power lines. Wizened vines claim strange sanctuary beneath the towering structures.


The following grape-growing families are identified in the 2001 “Current Ownership & Land Use Summary”:

  • Gonsalves
  • Evangelho
  • Cutino (Meadows)

Gaylord Container Corporation once owned the plot of grapevines in Parcel #18. Those eventually were uprooted.


Gonsalves:

In a recent thread post, I speculated that Parcel #3 was the “Little Big Patch Vyd”. Parcel #15, the “Driving Range/Sand Pit Vyd”, currently is for sale. The Gonsalves family farms, leases, or owns ~10 vineyards in eastern Contra Costa, totaling around 100 acres. Properties are managed by Gonsalves Vineyards, Sandy Lane Properties L.P., and the “B” Trust of the Gonsalves Family.

Evangelho:

Parcel #14 (10-acres) of Frank Evangelho’s vineyard, was purchased by Bedrock Wine Company in 2017. The winery leases another 26 acres from PG&E (#16 and #21?). These components make up the Evangelho Vyd.

Cutino:

“Carla’s Vineyard” occupied Parcels #19 and 20. Today, it is a parking lot for a stripmall (formerly a K-Mart). The vineyard was named for Carla Cutino-Meadows, wife of the late Dwight Meadows.

As of 2021, the “Evangelho Vyd” and the Gonsalves family’s vines still remain. PG&E utility lines also harbor some ancient grapevines.


The December, 1999, “East 18th Street Specific Plan” was devised to navigate “constraints within the planning area, in order to facilitate coordinated development of these 192 acres as a modern business park” (i). Authorization to proceed with developing the plan was given in December of 2001 (City Ordinance 986-C-S 12-11-01).

The plan’s emphasized commercial expansion. Allegedly, only the “oldest” vines would be spared (Parcel #16). All other plantings are at risk of being uprooted!




Additionally, the project designs stated that the vine-bearing lands beneath PG&E transmission lines could be secured - either through an agreement with the utility company or via lease/purchase by the city. Eventually, the grapevines were to be replaced with parking spaces or a similar low-profile structures:




The “E 18th St Specific Plan” represents the City’s long-term goals. For now, most of the project has not be completed. Nevertheless, many acres of ancient vines (“Open Space/Agriculture” on the “Final Vision” map) were rezoned for eventual “Office or Light Industrial” applications.

The “Evangelho Vineyard” may become the final remnant of Northeast Antioch’s viticultural legacy.


“Little Big Block Vineyard”:

The following information comes from the data sheet for the 2019 Birichino “Old-Vine” Contra Costa Mourvèdre:

"‘Face in the hot sun and feet in the water’, or so the old saw goes, describing the preferred environment for Mourvèdre. Today, a dwindling patchwork of densely planted, very old vineyards perseveres in the face of an expanding sea of densely planted, very new homes.

"These head-trained vines, planted in pure, deep sand, needn’t default to the conventional template of rusticity: tannic and often forbiddingly concentrated by the bayonet of saignée. Indeed, they’re ideal for a wine altogether different - elegant, darkly aromatic, supremely persistent, buoyant and soignée. Lest anyone infer the wine lacks grip or tension, rest assured they shall be greeted by the trademark Birichino ‘ninja tannins’, sitting coiled beneath the wine’s surface, ready to strike, only to vanish leaving behind but a shadow.

“Beginning in 2019, we have sourced old vine Mourvèdre from a ‘new’, very old vineyard planted c.1895, immediately adjacent to ‘Evangelho Vineyard’. This dry-farmed site produces a darker, more exotically pungent wine than that relied upon for previous vintages, suggesting black fruits, hothouse flowers and the subtle yet undeniable fragrance of marzipan found in many of Contra Costa’s best bottles. Whereas Mourvèdre harvests in Bandol and San Benito typically extend well into October, this pre-dawn pick in 2019 was relatively late for Contra Costa, with a rare foray into the first week of September.”

*** EDIT ***

“…Of the total 28.6 acres of Farmland of Statewide Importance, 21.5 acres are within Subarea 1 and 7.1 acres are within Subarea 2b. As of October 2012, all of these lands are in agricultural use. Subarea 2a is fully developed with other uses and has no lands in agricultural use or designated as farmlands. (The project site also contains approximately 26.2 acres of Farmland of Local Importance, which is not considered a protected category of agricultural lands under CEQA)” (p.16).

"The project area includes lands designated as Farmland of Statewide Importance (or, under LAFCO criteria, Prime Farmland). As noted above, the project would not result in any change to any existing land use. Antioch Municipal Code Section 5-3809 allows for the continuation of existing agricultural uses on a site when that site’s zoning designation may be changed. Moreover, through the project’s prezoning, the City would perpetuate existing County zoning allowable land uses. Portions of Subarea 2b would thus retain an agricultural zoning designation. In addition, the majority of the land currently in agricultural use consists of grapevines located within easements and rights of way owned by PG&E, which practically cannot be occupied by permanent structures.

“Given the existing site conditions, the project’s proposed retention of agricultural zoning designations, and the stipulations within the proposed prezoning for any change of use, the project’s potential to hasten conversion of agricultural lands would be considered minimal and impacts thus less-than-significant” (p.17-18).


No vines in the “NE Antioch Area Reorganization” site are under a Williamson Act contract.

Map of NE Antioch Land Use: Link