Given the price and service level of Japanese restaurants in NYC, if Michelin loved Japanese things, they’d dwarf French restaurants in terms of Michelin stars. Omakase has replaced steak as the power meal ages ago, and NYC has seemingly imported every top chef from Japan who’s willing to leave by paying them tons of money (which leads to astronomical pricing for omakase). This isn’t even including other Asian cuisines, where Michelin reviews seemingly throw darts at a board.
We’re getting far afield here, but I’ve listened to the owners of some of these restaurants complain about what they need to do just to earn one star when the French restaurants follow a simple model to earn their stars.
Michelin cares about service and consistency as much as anything else. The service component especially leads to some slightly bizarre results when done poorly - it becomes an end to itself.
I agree with your distinction between the Michelin treatment of Japanese chefs cooking French/fusion cuisine v high end Japanese cuisine in Paris. Michelin treats the former poorly compared to the latter. The former are also among my Paris favorites.
Back when Hayato first opened I passed on a resie because I wanted my sister to come with her partner and they weren’t available. Now I cannot get a resie, so any advice is appreciated! Maybe you just have to be a long-time customer to get in given the small number of seats they have.
I can’t comment about Asia generally or Japan specifically, but in my opinion, Michelin stars become less relevant the further one is away from France, becoming useless (or close to) by the time it comes to California.
I was hoping to get into Hayato this last trip but I did not plan sushi night far enough in advance. Thankfully I was able to get into Nozawa Bar and had a great meal there. Hayato for sure next trip.