I’m finishing up the last dregs of a 2000 Chauvin [St Emilion] which is 13.5% abv in an era, where that was lush/plump/big…but the bottle is now in the tertiary stages of evolution - forest, iodine - and the acid is winning over the fruit now. Still likable, but more for a fan of all the styles/stages of Bordeaux, than are ‘popular in its prime’ example.
But this makes me follow up on an aside I had mentioned far upthread: other right bank Bordeaux names outside the prestige AOC of St Emilion and Pomerol. There are tons of these, and the odds that if they make their way to the US at a fine wine merchant, they’ll be solid and develop in bottle.
Some names I’ve liked over the years, with the qualification that consistency in consumption of a name is unlikely.
Lalande de Pomerol:
de Chambrun - lots of ownership changes, but some years have been ageable, power examples, sort of like mini versions of Gazin.
Les Cruzelles - Denis Durantou’s family is involved, and I’ve drunk a bunch of the 1998, but include this more out of a caution to try a bottle before loading up. It’s on my ‘pass’ list personally.
La Fleur de Bouard - I like it, and it can keep, but will be controversial on WB perhaps due to the owners, or its style. Try it and taste it without preconceptions. Priced far above AOC norms.
Siaurac- I’ve only tasted one (peak) vintage, but it made me a believer. Not easy to find.
Lussac St Emilion:
Courlat: I’ve only tasted peak vintages (like 2005) but they were good and held well for a decade.
Montagne St Emilion
Faizeau: They have multiple bottlings, but the VV is the one to buy as there is a big qualitative difference between the base blend and the old vine plot. (I got tricked with that with a secondary / auction purchase once).
Maison Blanche: From the same family which owns a favorite - Grand Corbin Despagne - but for whatever reasons, I do not care for this vineyard at least in the two solid vintages I have tasted.
Cotes de Castillon:
Ch. di’Aiguilhe-Querre: not easy to find, but my 2005’s drank well for 15+ years. I think the brand/name is gone now?
Ch. d’Auigulhe: pretty good for the AOC, but don’t expect medium term cellaring…
Cap de Faugeres: I liked them much more when I was younger, but it’s still solid. I had a 2015 recently, and it seems to be still in the same fruity/chunky mold.
Pitray: I know Mark is positive on recent vintages, but my only experiences with (older) ones were middling. Try it for yourself.
Cotes de Francs
de Francs: My 2000’s lasted and improved way longer than expected.
Marsau: I’ve had a half dozen vintages (better ones) and they keep / improve / develop far beyond the AOC expectation.
Puygueraud: the few I’ve tried have been good. From the Thienpont family, which has many fine right banks.
Fronsac:
de Carles: the ones I’ve tried, and their luxe cuvee, have been powerful amped out examples.
Dalem: probably the template for an export worthy quality satellite right bank.
Fontenil: I like their wines, and they last, but those who are cool to the Rolland touch (double in this case!) should taste before buying blind.
La Dauphine: limited tasting experience, but I like.
Richelieu: a range of bottling names, but the peak examples I’ve tried were good, when young.
La Vielle Cure: probably a controversial pick on WB given the American ownership’s preference for max volume (this goes to 11!) but I’ve liked the years I’ve had. Lots of tannin, and beautiful labels to gaze at as you swirl your tongue around trying to get the grit out of your mouth.
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There are other AOC’s which I’ll to touch on later. As I get to the end of this note I am now drinking a thin/grapey young Janoueix Lalande de Pomerol that I am not familiar with…and it’s underwhelming. Maybe breathing will help.
For the most part these are all wines that - I think - consumers should be opportunistic about buying. I do not think they really merit extra efforts to find i.e. mail order. In my case Chambrun and Marsau were the only ones I have consistently tried to hunt down, since I thought they were a bit special in this category.
If one is in the footprint/shipping zone of a direct importer, one can really tilt the odds in their favor by trying a few of their names. Those will usually have the plus of potentially being available on an ongoing basis too. One will probably have to live without the comfort of recent professional critical reviews, but a merchant who has to buy 112 cases will have some ‘sweat and blood’ in the game too.