A kinder, gentler Barolo/Barbaresco?

RLR drinks well much earlier to my palate than PdB, which drinks well longer. I generally prefer RLR because of that and because I’ve developed a taste for young Nebbiolo and RLR scratches that itch better than anything else that comes immediately to mind. To my palate, PdB is clearly Barbaresco and RLR is something more.

It is from Langhe and 100% Nebbiolo. Does it violate any DOC rules for Langhe Nebbiolo? Don’t think so.

M (is it Mark?), you mentioned getting this annually. What is the most recent vintage you’ve found?

Lots of good advice here already. Two I haven’t seen mentioned and that would fit the bill for early drinking are Scarzello’s '18 Barolo, and Manuel Marinacci’s '17 Barbaresco Rocche Massalupo. I got them for $48 and $40, respectively, through a direct-to-consumer wine business a friend founded: https://www.opentuesdaywines.com

The Scarzello was lighter, more red-fruited, and floral (dare I say, Burgundian?) while the Marinacci shaded a little darker, but very silky. Both drinking well today. Not as much density as Roagna’s Langhe Rosso, but still lovely ‘weeknight’ wines that deliver Piemontese signature.

Higher up the price curve, Burlotto’s base Barolo and G. Mascarello’s Santo Stefano di Perno seem to drink quite well young.

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I think Scarzello is a great producer. I haven’t had a lot of the Barolo (a recent 78 was well past it’s prime), but the 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo made from young-vine Barolo was really good and not at all disappointing for its class. I’ve not heard of the Barbaresco producer. Thanks.

You could also see if you can get hold of any Colombera & Garella alto Piemonte wines, like the wines I tried quite a bit and they were not as demanding and unforgiving in their tannins as Barolo.

Some years ago at a Nebbiolo tasting I asked one of the winemakers I was quite impressed with in terms of their wines, if there was someone’s wines I shouldn’t miss, without hesitation he said “you should definitely stop by my friends tasting spot and referred to Garella ( some of the best Barolo producers attended).

Thanks. I touched this above, but I am a big Alto Piedmonte fan. I currently have in my cellar:

Antoniotti - Bramaterra and Coste Della Sesia
Cantalupo - Ghemme
Carlone, Davide - Boca
Colombera & Garella - Bramaterra and Lessona
Franchino, Mauro - Gattinara
Le Pianelle - Bramaterra and Coste Della Sesia
Mazzoni - Ghemme
Monsecco - Ghemme
Nervi Conterno - Gattinara
Noah - Bramaterra
Vallana - Boca, Campi Raudii, Spanna

I’ve had La Piane Boca, but they are pricey.

Always on the lookout for new producers as this region is in a revival. And I’ve not yet explored Valtellina. And there’s Carema…

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For Alto Piemonte, the Proprieta Sperino Uvaggio comes to mind. The Lessona is a step up, 100% Nebbiolo, but needs a bit more time in my experience.

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I’m surprised no one has mentioned Rovellotti in Ghemme in the Alto Piemonte discussions. One of my favorites. Yes, it’s not 100% Nebbiolo, but still superb.

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The rovellotti wines are great, and such an amazing qpr. It takes a little research to find them at retail but they are totally worth it.

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Okay I have to say it, if you have not tried Ferrando Etichetta Bianca Nebbiolo di Carema particularly the white label you really should. The 14 is killing it right now!

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Nice recommendation. I’ve not had one but it’s hard to go wrong with a Rosenthal import. As Dan said, that producer takes some searching. I’ll have to do that.

Edit: @AAgrawal and @Dan_A , I just found a few bottles. :cheers:

Just got some16 and 18s!

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Chris,

I love a lot of Alto Piemonte wines, too, but in my experience most of these still require 10-15 years of aging to be at their best. As others have mentioned, try Valtellina, but if you’re looking for delicious, young Nebbiolo, stick with the basic AR.PE.PE. rosso, or things like the Boffalora Rosso Umo, which is about $22. Also try the Agamium from Cantalupo.

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Thanks Marshall. I have really enjoyed the Agamium in the past. And I agree with you on the ideal aging window of Alto Piemonte. But 10-15 years is a lot better than 20-30 years. The 2013 Vallana Boca I just had is in a great spot and I keep finding various 2013s on the market for significantly less than B&B. I also don’t think they shut down as hard as B&B. I’ve had several different Alto Piemonte from 2014-2016 in the last year that were all quite enjoyable.

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Hi Chris- one producer I don’t think I’ve seen mentioned is Fratelli Alessandria Barolo from Verduno. These are beautiful wines that can be light and transparent especially in the early drinking window. The Normale and Gramolere from 2018 are excellent and the Monvigliero showed exceptionally well too at a tasting last year.

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I just tried some very approachable Spanna bottlings from Cascina Preziosa (their consultant is Cristiano Garella). They had a 2017 Spanna Coste della Sesia and a 2016 Coste della Sesia they call “Castleng” after the village where the vineyards are located, Castellengo.

The 2017 Spanna was very approachable – incredibly silky tannins, nice acidity, and great aromatics. The Spanna is a co-ferment of 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Barbera. Still very much structure-forward, but I think the Barbera manages to soften the wine without diminishing its seriousness.

The 2016 Castleng (100% nebbiolo) was also fairly approachable, but tighter. The tannins, at this point, are still a little harsh, but the wine is still plenty drinkable now (though probably better in 5 years).

Also, the importer rep told me something interesting. He says that Garella told him that 2017 is the best vintage in the Alto Piemonte of this decade (surpassing 2016). Interesting…

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Whilst there’s always a possibility of importer rep hype (it’s their job right?), it’s far from infeasible. We happily accept that Barolo and Barbaresco can vary by vintage, and they’re ~ 20 minutes apart by car. Ghemme is an hour and a half to the north, with other regions further.

In the absence of specific insight, I tend towards being more accepting of warmer years there, and indeed have drunk some wonderful 2003 vintage wines from there - and believe me I have a very strong distrust of that vintage in the classic wine regions of Europe.

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The Alto Piemonte, too, is a pretty complex region comprising a variety of micro-locations, soils, exposures, elevations etc., so statements like these will always be a bit broad. Nonetheless, on '16 vs '17, in an equally broad way, I’m kind of tempted to agree, certainly in relation to the Colline Novaresi area (most Gattinara and Fara are just fantastic in 2017, haven’t yet tasted enough '17 Ghemme to have an idea). On a side note, Cristiano Garella is, in my opinion, truly one of those rare generational talents (and I’m talking about all of Italy, not just Piemonte). Some of the very best wines made in Italy over the last twenty years bear his signature.

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Indeed!

That is a fact. I spent the better part of a week with him in the Spring of 2019 tasting, checking out vineyards, drinking and discussing over dinner. One of the best, most illuminating trips in my almost 30 years of doing this.

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And to think that he’s still not 40 yet is mind blowing, he has his best years ahead and there is no one (?) working as wide and broad in A. Piemonte as him.

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