I’m sure this has been covered before, but where would this site be without rehashing old topics over and over?
I’m about to turn 59 (and increasingly need to have my wife remind me how old I am). Two nights ago, we had a bottle of 2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Montifico. It was a pleasure to drink over several hours with beautiful aromatics and texture, but also a fair amount of “punch you in the face” tannins. It probably still needs ten years time. That reminded me of @David_Bu3ker’s note on the 2013 Ovello which sounded about as appealing as drinking liquid concrete. I can’t ignore the conclusion that it would be foolish for me to buy the 2019/2020/2021 vintages and am even worried that 2016 may have been a mistake unless I plan on drinking them before their prime.
I never want to stop drinking Nebbiolo, but my cellar is no longed rich in 30 year old wines. I am increasingly scratching that itch with Nebbiolo Langhe. But I would really like to find more wines in the style of Vajra’s Albe which has great stuffing and great drinkability in it’s youth. So, my question is this: independent of climate change (if that is possible), is there any move to making B&B in a more approachable style (not to be confused with “modern” style)? Perhaps Cogno’s Cascina Nuova? Just buy normale and skip cru? Apologies to @Otto_Forsberg in advance, who hates any Nebbiolo younger than 40 years age.
For sure. That has actually been my majority Piedmont focus for the last five years. But it is also a different presentation of the grape than Langhe versions and often not 100% Nebbiolo.
following. from what i’ve tasted, it seems many of the better wines from the region are made in a more open, friendlier style since at least 2012. on 2016 in particular, i’ve found the wines to be showing well already.
I don’t believe that to be a candidate for early drinking. I’d go with Giulia Negri Langhe nebbiolo or even Serradenari. I’ve never had a Canonica or Bondonio Roncagliette that was shut down, but those are more special occasion wines to me.
I agree.
Of my 2016’s I have tried the Vajra Barolo Albe and the PdB Pora. Both very, very good and not at all stubborn-like-a-mule like. Obviously not at their peak, but no regrets.
I think Produttori’s single vineyards are generally in the camp of needing the most time. I love those wines, but the tannins are not as finessed as the very top producers, so I wouldn’t use them as a benchmark.
Unfortunately, the producers whose wines most fit this super elegant, finessed style are generally the most expensive. Giuseppe Rinaldi’s Brunate definitely fits in this camp in my view, the tannins in the past decade of vintages are incredibly refined. Burlotto’s wines also fit this profile. In terms of wines more affordable, I think G.D. Vajra’s Bricco delle Viole is a very refined wine that tends to drink pretty well throughout its life, although it will definitely benefit from age.
I think you would be surprised at how finessed the top wines from good vintages now are. They’ll benefit from time, and may be more or less expressive sometimes, but they are drinkable. Even Monfortino 2010, 2014, and 2015 are super drinkable in my experience, with almost no perception of tannin, although the 2014 was not very expressive last I tasted it (2020). A Massolino Vigna Rionda 2014 recently was incredibly silky. Even Vietti Ravera, I recently tasted the 2019 and couldn’t believe how drinkable it was with incredibly refined tannins, and it was super expressive.
I would avoid the 2013 vintage for now. My experience is that vintage is particularly tannic and in need of time amongst semi-recent vintages.
I think Boca wines almost always scratch the itch for Nebbiolo that you can drink young or very old. A small amount of other grapes are usually blended in but full of Nebbiolo character. Had a 16 Ca` Rozzeria Boca last week that was fantastic.
Big fan of Gattinara, especially the Vallanas which are released pretty much ready to drink (though another decade or two wouldnt hurt). @Sarah_Kirschbaum can probably comment on this better than I can.
Latest I’ve had is 2008 Brunate which is an awesome wine. I think of Marcarini Brunate as a very classic Barolo that could use some time, but possible it’s changed. The La Serra should be more drinkable.
2020 Vietti Perbacco may actually be a great one to try. Not technically Barolo, but my understanding is it could almost be one based on the vineyard sources (might also include barbaresco fruit I think). I had a bottle of this over christmas and it was outstanding and great to drink now.
One mentioned I agree w/ is Vajra’s Coste di Rose. I think that’s probably a good mix between the Albe & the more ‘serious’ single vineyards of BDV/Ravera.
Marcarini is for sure very classic Barolo, but I’ve always found its still to be lighter than most and more “Burdundian,” perhaps due to the winemaking, perhaps due to being La Morra.
I was just trying (failing?) to jokingly imply that I think you’ve already identified the best in the style you’re seeking, so additional recommendations might disappoint you. No offense intended!
I’ve had some approachable young Trediberri and Giulia Negri before. Not sure if that’s true every vintage, but might be worth a shot?
Backfill with mature examples, which absolutely should offer a more delicate profile
Explore some of the wonderful langhe nebbiolo wines that have come through so well in the last couple of decades. They’ll mature faster and frequently (but not always) lack fierce tannins.
Explore away from the better known producers, as they can often be more approachable.
Focus a little more on the vineyards (and in this respect the Produttori have helped to inform us). Montefico and Montestefano I tend to think of as more robust. Ovello may not be as tight, but in the hands of Cantina del Pino, have the sort of tannins I expect of Barbaresco. Perhaps Rio Sordo and Pora might be better options
choose your vintages, and the bonus here is that lighter vintages are less prized by those seeking to cellar, but might have a good ageing profile for short - medium term. Even some warmer vintages (e.g. 2007) can be pleasingly approachable for a good few years and less at risk of closing down hard. In that respect yes 2016 (and later) might be problematic. Perhaps look to trade them for some vintages like 2008, 2004, 2001, 1999, 1998.
For context, the youngest wines I have cellared are as follows:
Langhe nebbiolo: 2016
Barbaresco: 2015
Barolo: 2010
Gattinara/Ghemme/Boca etc: 2012
Roero: 2016
Worth also noting that I generally (but not exclusively) leaned towards a cellaring style, so there’s still plenty of these grinding their way up the slope. I’m not discounting buying more, but it doesn’t make sense for me to go chasing the (firm/tight) vintage style that I used to.