A kinder, gentler Barolo/Barbaresco?

I’ll pile on with Ar.Pe.Pe.

Azelia’s base Barolo is fairly accessible young without being modern.

Gian & Natale Fantino’s wines also seem accessible young, again, without being modern.

Aside from that, just as others have said, Alto Piedmonte, Langhe Nebbiolo, Valtellina.

I sometimes see this thought expressed here but totally disagree. I think many good producers are making excellent LN. But maybe I simply have cheap taste! If so, I’m fine with that in this case.

LN’s I like include Produttori, Vajra, Burlotto, Fratelli Alessandria, Ca’ Nova, Sottimano, Elio Grasso, Roagna, Cavallotto, Trediberri. There’s certainly a gamut of styles in there, from more traditionally structured to fruitier and fresher, but I’m happy with these and find that some vintages suit some styles better, e.g., while some ‘20s seem too fruity, Ca’ Nova’s more rustic style seems a good match for the vintage.

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Has Azelia changed their style? Back in the Barolo War days, they were at the forefront of the modernista movement.

I have some 2013 G&N Fantino buried in the cellar. Based on CT, I have the impression they still need more time.

Please add any more thoughts on what you like from Ar.Pe.Pe.

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I’m really glad my first exposure to Principiano was the 2018: the approachability made the Barolos extremely appealing and was a nice window into his style.

The other wines were great too. I had no idea what Slarina was, but it was very appealing (better than the Langhe Nebbiolo, to be fair)

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Azelia’s style is quite different in recent years. My understanding is it’s been a gradual process towards less oak over the past two decades, and now I believe all wines are aged in neutral wood. I don’t think Azelia was ever the most modern, but if you taste the 1996 and 1999s from Azelia, they have aged beautifully, but they do still show some extra spice and wood tannin in my experience. But if you taste the 2016s from Azelia, there is really no sign of oak. The single vineyard wines are a bit on the more concentrated (they are believers in very old vines) and polished side, but in a tasteful way. I especially like the 2016 Cerretta. But even going back to the 2013s where there was I think 10% new wood, I tasted the '13 San Rocco / Bricco Fiasco / Margheria a few weeks ago and they were beautiful wines to my (largely) traditional leaning palate.

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My understanding is that Azelia has completely changed their style. Per the importer website maceration is 55-60 days and only large old casks are used. No modernity in my impressions.

The '15 G&N Dardi was recently open and accessible but the '13 may need more time and the '15 may yet close down.

I haven’t had any of the Ar.Pe.Pe. riservas but at the lower end I’ve really liked what I’ve had. Even the basic rosso is very nice, if perhaps getting rather pricey for what it is. It’s exactly what you’d expect, very pure, fresh, and bright.

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My view is perhaps slightly different including the prices, and indeed some of the top examples have started to move up the price ladder and getting closer to what Barolo/Barbaresco used to cost.

I think there are a few considerations worth taking into the equation and the first is that prices for Barolo and Barbaresco started to go as well, a couple of years ago we could still get very good Barbaresco wines for Eur20-25, now many if not most keep moving up the price ladder. Another point is that some of the greater Dolcettos for example also start to move up the price ladder - bought the Sandri ones for Eur11-12 per bottle one, maybe two years and they are now up to 17-ish something. Roagna, moving up etc. Don’t get me wrong, I love them and have plenty of room for them as well :smiley: Freisa as well, Pelaverga less so, didn’t find much joy or excitement there but I think it can be a quite polarizing variety (so that’s a me thing for sure)

Piemonte and the better producers regardless of variety keeps creeping up. Burlotto for example, I used to buy the LN for around Eur15 the Barbera a few euros less, Mores maybe Eur18, add another 3-5 euro for each bottling (at least?)… Not so sure the relative cost went up, at least not from what I have seeing.

I don’t know how much you or Ian have been drinking LN lately (I say this with respect, I appreciate your knowledge a lot) but I am quite convinced that among the quality focused producers the quality have followed the skills improvement and favorable growing conditions of late.

Few LN will come up to the level of Barolo/Barbaresco but there are quite a few that are not that far away and I would pick any day over an average producers normale.

If you didn’t (or did) try any of the following LN in recent vintages (2015-2020) then I would be quite curious to hear your thoughts after trying them… At least to me they are very interesting wines, and in that price range you’d have a hard time find a better Italian wine: Sandri, Principiano, Sottimano, Cavallotto (saw yes on this one…), Marchesi di Grésy (Martinenga), F. Rinaldi, and Oddero. Perhaps also Musso, Cantina del Pino, Fenocchio, F. Barale, Burlotto (more vintage dependent for the quality in my mind), G. Rosso (had the 2016 a few month ago, surprised me how go it was, liked it less two years ago, angular and edgy), and there are more/others of course…

They are not B/B but they are honestly fine wines for a relatively modest price, for the moment. Doesn’t require much aging though I feel the Serralunga based LN can be quite edgy (not tannins related) are more fun and gain weight and balance with a few years in cellar.

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I’ve really been enjoying Monti Perini’s 2016 Bramaterra from Alto Piemonte. The Source has a very thorough writeup here.

I think this is great value at $45/bottle and scratches that Nebbiolo itch in a more approachable style at 13% alc. I get the fruit and aromatics of Nebbiolo with the weight and mouthfeel of good Cru Beaujolais.

Nice, I never tried the Slarina but I am not surprised - he’s works wonders with simpler wines as well. Will look out for it.

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What year is that one? I killed a half case of the 2014s, but missed getting any since. I think I paid in the range of $40-44 for that vintage.

Chris, maybe some who drank their wines up and down the range over multiple vintages can advise better… I have had the Rosso in different vintages and it’s a very good wine (that’s why I reacted - def. not bad), but I did like a Sassella Stella Retica - delicate and elegant. I have a lonely 2005 Sassella Riserva Ultimi Raggi somewhere that I give a try once I can locate it :joy: (will let you know what I think of it once I did).

Thanks. I am currently eyeing the mid-range Stella Retica and the Grumello Rocca de Piro as wines to explore soon. They are not much more than the Rosso and come with more age on them.

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I would have done the same :+1:

The photo is from the internet. I still have a case of '13, my favorite vintage, yet to be opened (and plenty of other vintages), having loaded and reloaded several times. The combo of Barolo and Barbaresco fruit somehow works together in a way I find very appealing. I believe the wine is made from 25 year old ‘young vines’, rather than 40+ for the Barolo and Barbaresco. We drink a lot of it. I can’t think of a $40 Nebbiolo that gives as much pleasure on a consistent basis. YMMV.

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I agree with the comments about Cavallotto. It’s worth noting that that Langhe Nebbiolo is made according to the rules for Barolo, which is why it ages well, and it’s from great sites, of course. (Young vines from Bricco Boschis, Vignolo and several other crus.)

I import Cavallotto for my markets.

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A comment i made in another thread just reminded me about Massolino’s new Barbaresco. 2019 was the first vintage and when i had it eight month ago it was ready and good to go as pop and pour. Very decent Nebbiolo at its price point

Otto you turned me on to 50 years old Nervi and there is no going back for me…
I regret deeply drinking 100s of 1999 and 2001 Baroli 10 years ago. They should start to blossom now
Ok we get wiser when getting older

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Yeah, I drank gallons of 1989/1990 B&B at 10-15 years old. Did they have more evolution a head of them? Absolutely. Did I enjoy every single bottle. Absolutely! Part of getting wiser is not regretting all those bottles that gave their best when asked.

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I just remembered the Poderi Colla also makes an outstanding Nebbiolo d’Alba. If I recall correctly, the vineyard is right across the road outside the zone from the Barbaresco vineyard.

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