I thought this would be a good opportunity to compare a wine type (California Chardonnay) that I’d written off as being terminally boring until quite recently, with a wine type (Chablis) that I’ve admired for a long time, but never purchased or tasted with any regularity.
The Chablis in question is a 2011 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur. This wine was purchased at K&L for $65. 13% abv.
The California Chardonnay a 2011 Ceritas “Porter-Bass Vineyard”, made from biodynamically farmed grapes from vines up to 30-years old. Purchased from the winery for $55, 12.9% abv.
Served with grilled salmon.
Visually, the wines were a virtually identical very pale straw.
The Chablis was the more aromatically expressive of the two, showing tropical fruit highlights. The more reticent Ceritas showed faint citrus aromas.
On the palate, the Chablis was surprisingly rich and round, showing some tropical fruit and a little floral. This wine did not have the vibrant acidity that I associate with Chablis, was just a touch flat and lacked the flinty bite that I associate with good Chablis. A richer mouth feel than I anticipated, medium depth and length.
The Ceritas, on the other hand immediately hits the palate with a blast of acidity. All citrus and stone here, with noticeable energy and grip. While showing less fruit than the Chablis, it is longer on the palate. While the Ceritas has a lot going on, it is currently at a somewhat awkward stage. A little time might smooth this out a bit.
While both wines were enjoyable and very well made, this was a surprising tasting for me. The Chablis was easily the most readily accessible; the California contender was clearly the more edgy, savory and lively of the two.
I’m guessing that if tasted blind, many, if not most tasters would incorrectly identify the region of origin of these two wines.