2022s were generally good, red more than whites.
Top wines for reds:
Hudelot Noellat RSV
Mg clos vougeot
Eugenie GE
Top whites:
PVG Batard
Alex Moreau Chassagnes (all)
Caroline Morey Champs Gain
Other highlights:
Leroux Charmes
Dujac MSD 1er
Fourrier CSJ
Agree on most of those. HN RSV was prob red of the day.
Love love Caroline Morey. Again. Steve was not so enamored.
I keep singing praise for Ballot Millot. terrific, both today and the verts
Thought Paul Pillot and Pierre Giardin showed some very impressive whites today also.
Agree with all of these.
Loved everything at the MG table. CV and Ruchottes were exceptional. I ended up going back to Liger Belair towards the end and thought the VR Colombiere was a highlight as well. HN’s Suchots was great, too (though the RSV was probably my red of the day along with the MG wines.)
For whites, I’ll be seeking out more of Lamy’s En Remilly and the Pillot wines.
My overall thoughts on the vintage:
I overall liked the 22s but disagree with some commenters about it being comparable/better to 19. I think 19 is far better. I think comparing 21/22 is somewhat similar to the 01/02 comparison although I think 21 is somewhat better regarded than 01 was at the time. In my experience 01s have mostly been drinking better than 02s until they’ve been more comparable (but stylistically different) only recently, and while 01s may be starting to go into a gentle downslope from peak prime, they’re still drinking magnificently.
I think on balance I liked the 21 reds better than the 22s in many/most cases and may prefer them for a long time as well.
I was generally not a huge fan of the 22 whites, with some exceptions, and prefer 21s there also in many cases.
similar thought…
really liked 2022… it’s more successful overall than 2021 (altho i enjoy the early approachable for 21) but it’s not better than 19… then again, 19 was such a great vintage not a lot of recent vintages can really be ‘better’ than that…
I think a lot of producers made incredible wines in 2019. I loved both Fourrier and Roumier for example, but 2019 isn’t a perfect vintage across the bored and I think 22 will prove to be superior for many producers that lost control of alcohol in 2019.
I tasted through a lot of the 22’s late last year and thought the reds were some of the best young wines I have tasted (Specifically MG and Roumier). 19s that are great are incredible wines, but both Mugneret Gibourg and Hudellot Noellat to use two examples from this thread had wines north of 14% in 2019 and alcohol levels were much more under control in 22 coupled with great structure and exceptionally precise fruit. With MG specifically (Jasper listed alcohol in his tasting notes) 2019 MG Ruchottes came in at 14.2% and CV came in at 14.4% while in 2022 Ruchottes came in at 12.7% and CV came in at 13.4%. MG wines are better across the bored in 2022 - they are more classically proportioned and they just nailed the balance in 22. Give me 12.7 over 14.4 any day of the week!
The 22 Ruchottes was my personal favorite, but CV was a close second. The CV is maybe the more complex wine, but the Ruchottes fruit profile is just stunning for my palate.
22s just didn’t see to have anywhere near the concentration, power and depth of 19. They also aren’t as charming and approachable as 21.
I thought the MGs were great but preferred clos vougeot to ruchottes (as I usually do).
In other words 19 is like 19, 21 is like 01, 22 is like 02.
Looks like I tasted through them in November of 2024. I wish I’d had the opportunity to taste through them recently so that we were on the exact same page, but I remember concurring with William Kelley’s assessment that 2022 is like “a hypothetical marriage of 2017’s easy charm with some of 2015’s depth”
I agree with you that generally speaking 2019 is the better vintage, but 19s one flaw it that there were some marquee producers that had some uncomfortably high alcohol levels and that was not the case in 22. I think MG is an examples of a producer who made better wines in 22, despite the consensus that 19 is the superior vintage generally speaking. Maybe the 19’s were more concentrated, but how does a 14.4% CV taste in 20 years? maybe it’s great 
Any thoughts on the d’Eugenie '22s? Saw they used a lot of whole cluster and some notes suggesting that backfired in this vintage.
I loved them. They were one of the very best wines in the entire tasting.
I’ve had the MG grand crus a lot in the last few years; I went very deep on 19 and have multiple cases of all 3. I’ve had them probably 4-6 times for the 19s and now 3x for the 22s, and much prefer 19 (and 21) to 22, although 22 is going to be a good vintage too. I think the 19s will age just fine. The alcohol isn’t noticeable and the fruit and acidity are in great balance.
Btw discoveries/highlights of the grand tasting for me were:
D’Eugenie (I mean, I thought they were good last year, but wow, this year they killed it)
Camille Thieret
Also, hudelot RSV seems to be the best red of the grand tasting every single year I’ve gone.
What B-Ms in particular stood out to you?
2014 Perrieres out of mag was one of my favorite whites of the verts. And the 17 was also very fine And youthful.
2022 Meursault Charmes and Genevreiers showed excellent material.
I am a fan of BM wines, fwiw
I thought the 22s were very stemmy and were hard to get a read on because of it. I think they’ll be great in time but not so accessible early.
I think they only included like 35% whole cluster. I guess how much you like them depends if you like whole cluster or not.
I mean DRC and Dujac use much more whole cluster.
Some impressions of the Grand tasting – notes based on just one jaded man’s palate from one moment of time in these wines’ evolution.
2022 seems like a good to very good vintage to me. The reds are fruity and juicy – similar to 2018’s warm weather ripeness. But these have more lift and freshness. And seem more balanced. I liked the whites a touch more than the reds. I noticed a zestiness, a saline note, that appeals to me. Good acids and fuit, with balance being the hallmark. They don’t have the heft and tension of ’14 or ’20, but they are very fine.
The reds:
Once again, Hudelot Noellat’s RSV was the star of Paulee for me. Density and beautiful pure fruit, with superb length and spice-laden finish. I think Charles’ wines are under-rated in the upper ranks of Burgundy producers. His Suchots are such effortless, classy wines. Bright and stony. Loved the 16 in the verticals.
If HN was king, Mugneret Gibourg remains undisputed queen. Their Clos Vouget remains the benchmark for the somewhat maligned vineyard. Regal and velvet textured. I prefer it over the deeper-pitched Ruchottes. Lucy was pouring the wines and we both had a smile about how well the Feusselottes was drinking. Like me, she has a soft spot for this bottling – for its more floral, lithe qualities. She’s told me it’s her favorite offering in the whole range.
Jean Marie Fourrier is always so fun to taste with. Candid and a font of information about his futzing and fiddling over the years. He apparently has started making wine in Australia – something I hadn’t heard before. It’s a way to try new things and spread out winemaking throughout the entire calendar year. I have always gravitated to the value-play of his Combe Moines, which has some very old vines and is located in a bowl near the forest’s edge, providing a cooling note as temps continue to rise from climate. The 2022 is rich and musky.
Others have commented on the sleeper of the tasting – Eugenie. The Grandes Ech grabs your attention – it’s a bit like a cross between the style of Mugneret Gibourg and Rousseau. I know that’s high praise but the wine is that good. Probably the biggest revelation of the trip for me.
Loved that the entire Lafarge family showed up to the event. They have a bit of a lovable shaggy dog quality that is very appealing. Totally humble. The wines remain the best in Volnay. I actually preferred the Mitans over the Chenes … that may not be true in 10 years, but the Mitan is so approachable now and has a peppery, blackberry note that provides lift.
Dujac didn’t really pop at all, for me. None of the whole cluster magic for some reason. The Liger Belair wines were popular. I dug trying the Malconsorts, which is a new bottling for them. As you might expect, their version is more forward and lush compared to other producers’ offerings from this super 1er cru.
The whites:
Pillot once again stood atop the podium. I love the stuffing in these wines coupled with a chiseled mouthfeel. The Mazures and Clos St. Jean are delicious now, but have something in the tank.
Alex Moreau continues to go from strength to strength. His wines are remarkably consistent and I think underpriced relative to his peers. He reminds me of Dujac in some ways – just delicious wines that perform whenever you open one and reflect their place. I’ve never had a meh bottle of wine from him.
I’m not normally ga-ga for Lafon. A bit rich and slightly honeyed for me, speaking in general terms. But the Charmes had notable precision and length. It showed some restraint, which I found appealing.
Caroline Morey continues to improve her craft. The wines are floral and rocky at same time. There’s a lightness to them I find appealing, but enough ballast to hold your attention. The Champs Gains has great lift, ending on a smoky note that meshed with the whisper of honeysuckle. Much less reductive than her husband’s wines.
PYCM’s slate just seemed somewhat muddled and monochromatic to me. I’ve been a huge fanboy over the years but I’ve lost my mojo for the new releases over the past few years. Maybe it’s a function of me just trying new things and my palate changing, but the wines just seem a bit clunkier and dense to me. Lamy’s St. Aubins, in contrast, were airy and precise.
Other whites I loved:
· Bachelet-Monnot’s Folatieres was a new wine to me. It was the last wine I tasted the whole day but it still is jammed in my memory bank. Elegant and polished and long.
· Pierre Girardin’s Corton Charlemagne – white fruit, rocky, yummy
· Fornerol’s Bourgogne Blanc is full and long, with a mineral spine that belies its lowly appellation.
Final sleeper wine: Bachelet Monnot’s 1er cru Maranges red. I happened to taste it alongside Crush’s Ian McFadden, who also sang its praises: juicy, bright, spicy. Great value at $50 – what you’d pour as a starter wine to a newbies to gauge if Burg is their thing.
One final note: I really enjoyed having a brief conversation with two very capable female winemakers that represent the new breed of winemakers in Burgundy: Chantereves’ Tomoko Kuriyama and Eugenie’s Jae Chu.
I asked them about my affinity for Burgundy made by women – Gibourg sisters, Diane Seysses at Dujac, Vero Drouhin, et al. I didn’t belabor the point but I find the style of the producers mentioned to be softer, less extracted, more perfumed than the iron fist of, say, Roumier or Cathiard.
They just smiled and said they totally agree – women have better palates and maybe make more nuanced wines. We talked about women being better listeners (maybe in the vineyard and the cellars) and willing to hear what the vintage is telling them rather than imposing their will and putting their imprint/style on it (again a typical historical male trait.)
I’m going to get in trouble for unnecessary gendered distinctions and masculine-feminine tropes/prejudices, but I found the conversation fascinating.
I love whole cluster but in some wines the stem notes are overpowering (especially when young). I don’t know enough about winemaking to guess why it happens but for me it’s a similar phenomenon to when a wine with 25% new oak shows as overly oaky whereas the 100% new oak on some grand crus is superbly well-integrated and barely perceptible.
Thanks for the notes. Great to read your positive impressions on Pillot’s 22’s. Pillot was my largest purchase for 22 white Burgundy up and down the range. So far I’ve only tried the Bourgogne Blanc, but it’s killer and I’ve already polished off half a case!
22 La Romanée is really something special, but the CSJ is excellent as well.