2025 NYC Grand Tasting

[Shan_A]

@MChang

@LaurenB

I thought the 22s were very stemmy and were hard to get a read on because of it. I think they’ll be great in time but not so accessible early.

I think they only included like 35% whole cluster. I guess how much you like them depends if you like whole cluster or not.

Hard to find information, but a few links suggest really high use of stems in the 22s. Per the seminar I attended in the morning, the winemaker said the max they would ever do is 80% whole cluster (feeling 100% turns into being too risky). So it seems many cuvees in 2022 were given the max whole cluster treatment. Why higher in 22 than 19, no idea.

2022 Domaine d'Eugenie, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Aux Brulees 3x75cl -...

“The 2022 Vosne-Romanee Aux Brulees 1er Cru includes 80% whole clusters (the highest ever)”

https://www.farrvintners.com/wine.php?wine=108306
Echezeaux “80% whole bunch vinification with 6 new barrels out of 9.”

2022 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot, France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos...

Clos Vougeout: “The 2022 on display today has 80% whole cluster and two thirds new oak.”

[MChang]

2022s from Domaine d’Eugenie

2022 Domaine d’Eugenie Vosne Romanee Clos de Eugenie

Interestingly, this doesn’t count as a monopole for some reason because there is some law that prevents it from having the same name as the domaine. In any case, this was a pretty wine, with some exotic spices and beautiful dark cherries on the nose, ample but balanced acidity, and a lovely clean finish.

2022 Domaine d’Eugenie Vosne Romanee 1er Aux Brûlées

This stepped up the concentration a bit with a little stronger hint of allspice along with some currants to go along with the ripe dark cherries. The palate had a bit more intensity and the finish hit harder and deeper. This certainly had grand cru depth.

2022 Domaine d’Eugenie Grands Echezeaux

This stepped up the depth and concentration even more, and surprisingly with the increase in structure, this wine was wide open for business. More spice, more fruit, and much more flavor all integrated harmoniously together into a beautiful symphony, with a long coda of a finish. Absolutely stunning. I immediately sought out some of these wines and am very happy to own them.

2022 Domaine d’Eugenie Clos Vougeot

This was very different from the other wines; the concentration and depth was a notch lower than the GE, and perhaps even the Brûlées, but what it lacked in power it made up in elegance. This was so balanced and pretty. The fruit was lithe and very pure, and the finish was silky and pleasurable. Beautiful wine.

I’ve been a huge fan of Eugenie since the last two Paulees; the wines have gone from strength to strength and are still reasonably well priced for their quality. A producer to investigate, for sure!

[Karl_K]

Nice notes

[MChang]

2022s from Domaine Fourrier

2022 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes

Quintessential Fourrier with lovely noise of red currants, crunchy red fruits on the palate, and a lovely elegant finish. Not too complex but incredibly delicious.

2022 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin 1er Les Combe aux Moines

This takes things up a notch with more robust fruit and aromatics, adding a bit more earthiness on the nose and palate. There’s a bit more of a mineral streak here. Not quite as friendly as the VV and likely needs more time. The finish is significant longer and I think the most significant characteristic is freshness.

2022 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin 1er Les Goulots

A bit more fruit here compared to the Goulots, with a little less minerality and a bit more immediately accessible, with a bit less tension. The palate again had the beautiful pure pretty fruits, but a little less precision. Finish was desultory yet charming.

2022 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin 1er Clos St Jacques

Another step up in depth, density, concentration and complexity, the CSJ had joyous red cherries, abundant earth and forest floor on the nose. So fresh and clean on the palate. This was pretty tight initially although on a revisit later that morning it was a bit more accessible. The finish was super long.

[B_Beachy]

@MChang

2022 Domaine d’Eugenie Vosne Romanee Clos de Eugenie

Interestingly, this doesn’t count as a monopole for some reason because there is some law that prevents it from having the same name as the domaine.

I have like first grade level knowledge of Burgundy compared to you and others, but I wonder why that is the case, since Domaine Clos de la Chapelle clearly labels their “Clos de la Chapelle” a monopole. Is it because Domaine d’Eugenie don’t use the full name with “Clos,” and the name would be confusingly similar but not the same?

[MChang]

@B_Beachy

@MChang

2022 Domaine d’Eugenie Vosne Romanee Clos de Eugenie

Interestingly, this doesn’t count as a monopole for some reason because there is some law that prevents it from having the same name as the domaine.

I have like first grade level knowledge of Burgundy compared to you and others, but I wonder why that is the case, since Domaine Clos de la Chapelle clearly labels their “Clos de la Chapelle” a monopole. Is it because Domaine d’Eugenie don’t use the full name with “Clos,” and the name would be confusingly similar but not the same?

I’m not sure, I know Clos de L’Arlot is also a monopole. I asked one of the winemakers and they didn’t know why either.

[MChang]

2022s from Mugneret Gibourg

2022 Mugneret Gibourg Vosne Romanee La Colombiere

One of my favorite wines from MG, this plot is right behind their house, but was only folded back into the domaine in recent years. Nose was deep with dark currants and just a hint of fresh pine needles and damp fallen leaves. Palate had a lot of acidity and some more lifted fruits, and the finish was intense.

2022 Mugneret Gibourg Chambolle Musigny 1er Les Feusselottes

The prettiest of the MG wines, with ripe red cherries, lace and elegance on the palate, and a light touch on the finish. Always a favorite, this most delicate of cuvées was a big hit in 22.

2022 Mugneret Gibourg Ruchottes Chambertin

The most recent addition to the grand cru stable, I think the Ruchottes has improved the most of all of the MG wines, especially after the young vines once earmarked for the Gevrey 1er were folded in after the 2011 vintage. Surprisingly light bodied, this is always a big contrast from the much more structured and robust versions from Rousseau and Roumier. The nose had incredibly elegant red currants and wild blackberries, the palate was elegance incarnate, with a perfect balance of fruit and acidity, and the finish was incredibly long. I have gone back and forth between this and the clos vougeot in 22 but they’re both wonderful.

2022 Mugneret Gibourg Clos Vougeot

Always one of the best wines from Clos Vougeot, 2022 is no exception. As with the other MG wines, power isn’t the name of the game here, although this is quite a bit more robust than the Ruchottes. The nose is darker fruited, with blackberries, black currant jam, and noticeably more sous bois. The palate is sultry and alluring, inviting another sip and yet another, and the finish is terrific. I think this will reward earlier drinking than the Ruchottes.

[MChang]

2022s from Denis Mortet:

Denis Mortet is a producer I’ve never really had much experience with. I’ve had their Chambertin a few times and always been quite impressed, but getting the chance to taste through more of their lineup was very nice.

2022 Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin Mes de Cinq Terroirs

From 5 village level lieu dits from the northern part of the village. Lighter bodied with some florals on the nose, red fruits, and brisk acidity. This had quite a bit of complexity and verve, with a surprisingly long finish.

2022 Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 1er La Perriere

From the site of a former quarry, La Perriere is one of my favorite sites in Gevrey but is made by relatively few producers. 50% new oak and 40% whole cluster. Some strawberries on the very perfumed nose, along with a suggestion of exotic spices including a hint of cardamom. Quite complex with significant flint on the palate, and again a long finish. I think these wines are certainly alluring on the nose but I’m most impressed by the finish.

2022 Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 1er Lavaux St Jacques

From a cooler site on the Combe, this is a bit lighter bodied than the Perriere, but no less complex, with some strawberry vanilla parfait on the nose, a bit less minerality but no less acidity on the palate, and again a lovely finish. This was fun to drink after 3 different vintages of Lavaux in the verticals.

2022 Denis Mortet Clos Vougeot

Taking things up a notch, this was a much denser wine than the MG and Eugenie versions. Vanilla was noticeable on the nose, along with some beautiful plums. The palate was lithe, with some acidity and significant structure, and again, the finish was long and powerful. Great wine with lots of aging potential.

[Joshua_Kates]

Before Denis died the Cinq Terroirs was a real steal, sort of like Burguet’s Mes Favorites. Price shot up even before many others and I stopped buying. Always somewhat extracted wines, but definitely also showed some finesse.

[MChang]

@Joshua_Kates

Before Denis died the Cinq Terroirs was a real steal, sort of like Burguet’s Mes Favorites. Price shot up even before many others and I stopped buying. Always somewhat extracted wines, but definitely also showed some finesse.

Yeah the Mortet wines don’t seem like they’re a particularly good value but they were nice to drink.

[MChang]

2022s from Camille Thiriet

Camille Thiriet was one of the surprises for me this Paulee. Like Didier Fornerol, Camille is focusing on sites located in the Cote de Nuits villages, and the wines were very impressive, indeed. Overall I was very impressed with how serious these wines were; they will really benefit from a few years in bottle.

2022 Camille Thiriet Cote de Nuits Villages Les Retraits

This vineyard is very close to Mugnier’s Clos de la Marechale, and while the wines share a certain kinship, with beautiful strawberry fruits, this 100% whole cluster wine has a large dollop of allspice which is very well integrated without any hint of verdancy, and a bit more complexity than the other wines with a few darker flavors. The palate was very balanced and the finish was nice.

2022 Camille Thiriet Cote de Nuits Villages La Montaigne

From a site higher up on the slope, this had even more spice on the nose, along with more pure red fruits. Palate had a bit more energy and the finish was silky and lengthy.

2022 Camille Thiriet Cote de Nuits Villages Clos Magny

From an monopole above La Montaigne, this continued the theme of spiced and dried fruit, along with pure fresh fruits and some cut grass. The palate maintained excellent fruit/acidity balance and the finish was pleasant.

2022 Camille Thiriet Cote de Nuits Villages La Robignotte

From another site near La Montaigne, this was an intense wine, with a bit of spiced and mulled fruits, tension on the palate, and a slightly clipped finish. I think this needs a few years to really open up.