It’s definitely not unique to Cédric Moussé. In fact it is ubiquitous across Champagne, and this is – to say the least – distressing. It is an aroma and flavor somewhat like the 2015s, which is to say a grassy flavor not intrinsically irritating but simply alien to Champagne. What’s more worrisome is a suggestion of the nasty vegetal scents and flavors of the truly appalling 2011. It is not that extreme, and ladybugs weren’t the culprit. The nature of the culprit is “being considered,” and several hypotheses have been advanced.
Given that the issue is starkest with Moussé’s Rosé, that could point us to the skins as a cause. One taster whom I respect likens the characteristic to peanut shells, and agrees there is also an unripe note. A plausible explanation is offered, having to do with off-elements from the stems, and this taster wonders whether the same thing could explain the strange phenolics of many German and Austrian wines in the same vintage. That’s more of a stretch, though it is intriguing. But returning to Champagne, I wasn’t there (nor were many other people) in early 2021 to taste the Vins Claires, and I don’t know whether these would have forecasted the eventual off-notes. My guess is, they would have, but we’ll never know."
Brad Baker and Donald Pennet both commented on this when David Bueker shared it in last month. I think some mention of it up thread caused him to share it.
Some pick up a green, grassy, herbal type note in some 2020s. It is not the under ripe pyrazine note that you can find in some 2011s. It is not exactly the same as the savory, herbal note that you find in 2015, but somewhat similar in its grassy, green, but not really under ripe character. Like 2015, in 2020, this wasn’t something that you could taste in the vins clairs. It came after blending and the second fermentation. There are numerous theories as to where this may have come from - lack of proper nutrition in the grapes due to heat stress and the shorter growing season, lack of nitrogen in the soil, grapes that appear to have ripe phenolics, but still have something unripe in the seeds, something strange growing on the grape skins, etc… It isn’t in all the wines and it is a characteristic that bothers some, some find indifferent or interesting, or some do not detect at all.
Even more disappointing to many in Champagne was that the yield was reduced in 2020 to a level much lower than what it should have been due to COVID business concerns. This led many folks to be a bit choosier on what they selected, but it still didn’t necessarily stop some wines from displaying this characteristic.
As to the origin, I lean towards lack of proper nutrition in the grapes due to heat stress and the shorter growing season with a lack of nitrogen in the soil also being a possible contributing factor. As with 2015, not all 2020s have this characteristic and the wines are still young. We also don’t know if this characteristic will stay in the wines that show it and how it may evolve over time.
I’ve had the unpleasant green asparagus-esque note in a number of 2020 Chablis from various producers and am actively avoiding the vintage. It was been especially obvious when comparing with a 2019 or 2021 from same producer.
Given the predominance of machine harvesting and the aspiration to produce generous yields, if any white Burgundy sub-region is going to be herbaceous, it’s going to be Chablis.
I had difficulty with the 2020 Michel, Butteaux (not VV) and it was consistent over a case. The village wine was as described in the noted quote - whether it still is or not I don’t know.
But suffice to say, I’m not buying anymore 2020 from Louis Michel.