Recently I found my cellar short of both Meursault Perrières and Mersault Genevrières, so last night at dinner time I went surfing to see about picking up a few cases of each, from the 2009 and 2010 vintages
While reading though some Burghound reviews, I almost blew my soup across the table when reading this review of the 2009 Domaine Theirry Matrot Meursault Perrières -
"As is usually the case, this is the most elegant and refined wine in the range with a pure, cool and airy nose of spiced pear and mineral reduction where the stony character suffuses the intense and gorgeously detailed medium-bodied flavors as well as the driving and explosive finish. This is a stunning effort that should offer superb upside development potential and last for two decades."
Two decades? For a wine from the rather ripe 2009 vintage? Um, premox?
This is kind of like the old joke about the economist stranded on a desert island whose punchline goes something like, “First, imagine we had a boat…” As if we needed any more confirmation that drinking-window prognostications are an exercise in abstract theory that has no actual utility or application to any corporeal bottle of wine, we see all the critics going through the same abstract theoretical exercise to peg the drinking windows of white Burgundy as if premox is not a factor, and of course from an abstract theoretical standpoint it isn’t a factor since the wines don’t show any signs of premox yet! Works out great in theory… in practice, on the other hand…
Trouble is, I’ve had too many Matrot wines from the past several vintages that were premoxed. Far more than average over the range of producers I have experience with. I can’t, at this time, conceive of buying any Matrot wines, regardless of vintage character.
I have no experience with Blain-Gagnard as his wines are not available here in Quebec, Canada; but I never had much a problem with Gagnard-Delagrange. I still have a few bottles of his Montrachet and B-M from vintage 1998, 1999 and 2001.
IMO, most white Burgs in ideal cellar condition can last 20+ years easily. Unfortunately premox is a lot worse than TCA and I am drinking up my 2008 GC montrachets. I am avoiding the 09s and stick to the 08s and the 10s in lieu of the premox epidemic.
BTW, I don’t understand how some folks blindly follow their favorite critics when the past track record is less than stellar.
Kevin…noone with some wine-drinking experience ( specially in Burgundy ) is following any wine critics blindly ( be it your fav ones or not ). Their tasting notes from wine critics are guidelines only…
I remember in the early part of my Burgundy life I bought Burgundy wines which were rated 88-89 points by Parker and seldom buy any wines rated 94 points and up because of difference in preference.
I buy less ( in number of bottles ) of my fav 1er cru and g-cru white Burgundy now.
Drinking up your 2008 Montrachets is OK…but they are very different with 15 bottle-age.
But my love for matured ( repeated matured = with mini 15 years bottle age ) white Burgundy will remain the same. What I mean is…I will change it and I will hang onto my remaining bottles of white Burgundy from vintage 1998 to 2002.
Peter,
No doubt and I have a nice stash of the 89s and the 92s. I am willing to take chance on Dauvissat, Raveneau, Coche Dury and Leflaive. The others including Ramonet, I am drinking young.