Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains 8th Grand Tasting – March 24th, 2024
I attended the recent Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains 8th Grand Tasting in Saratoga, and wrote a report for the Grape-Nutz.com website. An abbreviated version of the report is below – there are lots more photos plus tasting impressions from 23 wineries here: Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains 8th Grand Tasting – March 24th, 2024
Report on the Grand Tasting presented by Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains on Sunday March 24th, 2024 at The Mountain Winery in Saratoga. This event is held to highlight wineries in the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. The Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains Grand Tasting was accompanied by a silent auction during the event.
Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains (formerly the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association) helps to promote wineries and wines from the region. The Santa Cruz Mountains AVA was established in 1981, and includes parts of Santa Cruz, Santa Clara, and San Mateo counties. Vineyard elevations in the AVA range from 400 feet to over 2,600 feet, with some sites lying below the “fog line” and some above – the varied subregions of the AVA feature a number of different soil and climate profiles. Given the mountainous terrain, it’s no surprise that most of the nearly 300 vineyards in the region are small, with a total planted area of only around 1,600 acres. Over 70 wineries, most of them quite small and family-run, are currently members of the Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains organization.
Grand Tasting General Impressions
The Grand Tasting was hosted by The Mountain Winery, in the hills high above Saratoga. This is one of California’s most notable winery sites, with a history that stretches back to legendary vintners Paul Masson and Martin Ray. This was the second time I’ve attended this event, and because of an iffy weather forecast, it was held indoors on this occasion rather than out on the winery’s expansive patio spaces as usual. Given that, it felt more crowded this year but the winery tables and silent auction tables were laid out about as well as could be expected given the circumstances. Overall this was a very well-planned and well-run event.
I tasted wines from 24 producers this year, though were still a handful I missed that I’d hoped to get to. I tasted through most or all of the wines poured at each table I visited. The Selected Tasting Impressions below don’t cover every wine I tasted at the event, but include the wines I felt were most noteworthy, with some from almost every winery table I stopped at. It was great to see such legendary producers as Mount Eden and Ridge participate in this event to help lift the recognition of the Santa Cruz Mountains wine region. Many longtime wineries from the area were there as well as some very promising relative newcomers.
Of the producers whose wines I tasted, those that poured particularly strong groups of wines included Alfaro, Big Basin, Birichino, Lester Estate, McHenry, Mount Eden, Neely, Ridge, Sandar & Hem, and Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard. Others including Aptos, Beauregard, Madson, Maison Areion, Sante Arcangeli, Thomas Fogarty, and Windy Oaks are worthy of mention as well, and several others also poured a standout wine that made my Favorites list.
I greatly enjoyed this event again this year. It’s a wonderful opportunity to sample some of the best wines from most of the Santa Cruz Mountains’ top wineries. The quality of wines I tasted was very high across the board once again this year, a testament to the strong case this region makes for being recognized as one of California’s finest wine regions. If you’re a fan of the wines from this area or just want to learn more about them, attending the next Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains Grand Tasting is highly recommended.
Favorites
Whites and Rosés
Alfaro 2022 La Playita Vineyard Estate Grüner Veltliner
Birichino 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Chardonnay
Lester Estate 2021 Chardonnay
Madson 2022 Ascona Vineyard Chardonnay
Maison Areion 2019 Chardonnay
Neely 2019 Spring Ridge Vineyard Bee Block Chardonnay
Sandar & Hem 2021 Mountain Winery Vineyard Chardonnay
Reds
Aptos 2020 “Exhibit 3B” Merlot
Big Basin 2021 Ascona Vineyard Pinot Noir
Big Basin 2019 Rattlesnake Rock Syrah
Birichino 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Lester Estate 2020 “Domingo” Pinot Noir
McHenry 2021 “Swan Clone” Estate Pinot Noir
Mount Eden 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Neely 2019 Spring Ridge Vineyard Upper Picnic Block Pinot Noir
Ridge 2021 “Jimsomare” Zinfandel
Sandar & Hem 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard 2018 Luchessi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Sante Arcangeli 2022 Split Rail Vineyard Pinot Noir
Thomas Fogarty 2017 “Walker’s” Nebbiolo
Windy Oaks 2018 “Special Release – Le Chaud” Estate Pinot Noir
Others of Note
Alfaro 2021 Alfaro Family Vineyard Pinot Noir
Big Basin 2021 Kimari Vineyard Chardonnay
Beauregard 2021 Beauregard Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon
Kings Mountain 2019 Estate Clone 13 Pinot Noir
Madson 2022 Ascona Vineyard Pinot Noir
Maison Areion 2019 Merlot
McHenry 2021 Estate Pinot Noir
Mount Eden 2020 Estate Chardonnay
Ridge 2021 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Sandar & Hem 2021 Deerheart Vineyard Pinot Noir
Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard 2021 Las Nietas Vineyard Pinot Noir
Sante Arcangeli 2022 Coast Grade Vineyard Pinot Noir
Thomas Fogarty 2021 Windy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir
Windy Oaks 2021 “100% Whole Cluster” Estate Pinot Noir
Woodside 2018 King’s Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
Selected Tasting Impressions
I’m posting selected tasting impressions here from just some of the producers whose wines I tasted at the Wines of the Santa Cruz Mountains Grand Tasting event – notes on 23 producers are in the full Grape-Nutz.com report. The producers below are some of those whose lineup of wines poured at the event impressed me the most.
Alfaro Family Vineyards
Richard and Mary Kay Alfaro established their vineyards and winery in the Corralitos area in the late 1990s. About 56 acres of estate vineyards are planted, and the winery produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, and Grüner Veltliner. The Alfaros’ son Ryan has now taken over the winemaking from Richard. I enjoyed all three wines at their table, starting with the 2022 La Playita Vineyard Estate Grüner Veltliner, with subtle citrus, herb, and pepper aromas and fine acidity. The 2021 Trout Gulch Vineyard Estate Chardonnay displayed bright pear, spice, and floral notes, with a lively medium-bodied mouthfeel and finish. The red-fruited 2021 Alfaro Family Vineyard Pinot Noir had undertones of tea leaf, flowers and spice, with fine structure.
Big Basin Vineyards
Big Basin was established by Bradley Brown in 1998, with the first plantings at the estate vineyard coming in 2000. Their 10 acres of estate vines are certified organic and dry-farmed, and they also buy fruit from a number of other noted vineyards. Blake Yarger joined the Big Basin team in 2017 and became their winemaker in 2021. The 2021 Kimari Vineyard Chardonnay had citrus, green apple, and floral aromas, with fine acidity and a lively finish. The 2021 Ascona Vineyard Pinot Noir displayed red fruit with notes of tea leaf, flowers, and spice, with great structure – this should benefit from additional bottle age. The 2019 Rattlesnake Rock Syrah, fermented entirely with whole clusters, was a standout, with savory, meaty aromas along with dark berry fruit, herbs, and a touch of black olives, with a big texture and grippy tannins – very good now but has the potential to develop nicely with further cellaring.
Birichino
Proprietors Alex Krause and John Locke established Birichino in 2008. While they make Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet, they’re also known for their wines from varieties that were once more common in California than they are now – Chenin Blanc, old-vine Grenache and Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Zinfandel among them. A highlight at their table was the 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Chardonnay, which showed citrus, spice, and earth notes with loads of acidity along with medium body, and a long finish. The 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was another winner, with savory, herbal black currant fruit, spice, and earth, great texture and fine tannins – worthy of additional time in the cellar.
McHenry Vineyard
The winery was founded by Dean McHenry – the first chancellor of UC Santa Cruz – and his wife and children. The vineyard was originally planted in 1970 and the first commercial releases came in 1980. They grow only Pinot Noir, with Pommard, Swan, 13, and 115 clones. Ryan Beauregard made the 2021 McHenry wines, and I enjoyed both of them. The 2021 Estate Pinot Noir displayed red fruit and fresh herbs with earthy notes in support, medium-light body, and good structure. Even better was the 2021 “Swan Clone” Estate Pinot Noir – this had black cherry, tea leaf and forest floor aromas with greater depth, a bit more heft on the palate, and a more structured character. Both wines should benefit from additional bottle age, particularly the “Swan Clone” bottling.
Neely Wine
The Neely family’s estate Spring Ridge Vineyard is located below Windy Hill in Portola Valley. Initially planted in the early 1980s, the vineyard blocks now total about 16 acres, with mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus a little Grüner Veltliner in a new block. Shalini Sekhar is the Neely winemaker. The 2019 Spring Ridge Vineyard Bee Block Chardonnay displayed fresh pear and stone fruit aromas with floral notes, a touch of spice, and fine acidity. Another standout was the 2019 Spring Ridge Vineyard Upper Picnic Block Pinot Noir, with savory tea leaf, black cherry, and earth notes, a lively texture, and good structure.
Sandar & Hem Wines
Sandar & Hem is the label of Rob & Recha Bergstrom, with their first wines coming from the 2018 vintage. Rob, who’s worked at both Rhys and Mount Eden, makes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced from a number of noted Santa Cruz Mountains vineyards, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Rosé, and Cabernet Sauvignon. I enjoyed all three wines at the table, starting with the bright citrus and floral aromas and great acidity of the 2021 Mountain Winery Vineyard Chardonnay. Next was the 2021 Deerheart Vineyard Pinot Noir, with pretty floral notes plus black cherry and earth, and a chalky mineral character on the palate. The 2021 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon showed dried herbs, currant and black cherry fruit, spice, and earth aromas, with great structure and firm tannins – this deserves time in the cellar.
Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard
Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard was established by Ken Burnap in 1975, at the Vine Hill property that he purchased from David Bruce, who had planted it in 1968. Ken retired in 2003, selling the vineyard to another vintner but selling the winery label to his assistant Jeff Emery, who continues to run the winery and make the wines. I enjoyed all three wines at the table, starting with the savory black cherry and earth notes of the 2021 Las Nietas Vineyard Pinot Noir, which had a very pleasant mouthfeel and finish. The 2021 Zayante Vineyard Zinfandel featured spicy red fruit, a touch of black pepper, and fine tannins, while the 2018 Luchessi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon had lots of herbal black currant and plum fruit plus a touch of pepper, with a lively texture and great structure.
