Thank you. Mauro Molino sounds great. He is under the radar, and not getting the attention from the wine press. I like that. Going to check them out. Regards, Mark
Just back from a short trip to Langhe. Mauro Molino highlight of my experience, great tasting and overall experience (tasting is 25€ and bottles of cru range from 50/50, 2020 vintages available). Also been to produttori (underwhelming, only 2019/2020 no cru availables, bottles 25€ each and tasting 10€) and albino Rocca (was a bit rushed on our side, tried some 2020/2021 cru, all crus are 45€ per bottle). On my way back home also stopped at Muraje in Carema, the owner was very friendly and engaging tried the whole range including a delicious Carema riserva 2018.
I am down to mapping out wineries for our upcoming trip. Of these two which would you select- Mauro Molino or Massolino? Or is there something better in the vicinity?
Thank you!
Yes. Mauro Molino is a lovely winery. The tasting room is beautiful, and recently redone. The wines are good, but not great. The staff was excellent, friendly, warm, and very gracious. It was a fun visit, and I would recommend it. Their Cru Barolos are good, but not great. If you want to stick with great Barolo, I would recommend G.D. Vajra (their Baudana wines are stunning, as were their Cru Barolos and their Barbera d’Alba), Paulo Scavino, Oddero, Poderi, Parusso, Luigi Pira, and Francesca Rinaldi (if you can get a booking).
Cascina Adelaide was fantastic. Their Barolo Riserva “Per Elen” is a dedication of the founder of Cascina Adelaide Amabile Drocco to his life companion. It is stunning. We had the good fortune of getting a winery tour and tasting by Simone Ortale, their very charming winemaker. It was real delight.
Also, we stayed at Agriturismo Cascina Sciulun. A small winery next to Cannubi. Their wines are totally under the radar, and their black label Barbera was great, and inexpensive (under 30 euros). And their riserva barolo is very good. And it was a delightful place to stay, within minutes of many good wineries, the towns of Barolo and La Morra, etc.
Have fun. Barolo and Tuscany were the highlights of our Italy trip. Would go again in a heartbeat.
Awesome information! So helpful! I have been to France countless times and lived in Claifornia, but Italy is still on the newer side for me. I appreciate your guidance!
How many days will you be in the Langhe region ? Where are you staying ?
Massolino is making some terrific wines right now. Terrific producer in Serralunga. Centro Storico is a terrific little Enoteca/restaurant for lunch or dinner in Serralunga as well.
It would still help to know where you are going to be staying, more precisely!
There are tons of amazing producers in almost every village, so it’s easier to give suggestions based on places which are most easily accessible to you!
Although many places might look like they are almost next to each other on the map, they can be located quite far away from each other in reality, since Langhe is a very hilly region and two almost adjacent wineries might be separated by a valley or a steep hill.
It’s a bit of a drive from there to the Langhe, but not an unpleasant one.
Do plan to stay in Asti on market day (or at least have a morning there), if you like open-air markets. Theirs is a big one, that certainly used to have decent quality.
Canelli / Acqui terme may make for an appealing (non-Langhe) day trip, with historic semi-sparkling Moscato d’Asti / Asti cellars in the former, plus an appealing and compact spa town for the latter. An additional detour south takes in (IIRC) the smallest DOCG in Italy - Loazzolo, and the drive through it is winding, but pleasing.
Barbaresco villages (Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and surrounds) are closer to you than Barolo, and focusing on them would be slightly more practical, but given you have 4 days and one already committed to the festival, I can see how a day in Barolo villages and a day in Barbaresco villages would have appeal.
These were the things I was thinking, too. If one is not staying in some of the Barolo or Barbaresco towns, I definitely recommend concentrating on the producers of just one village instead of crisscrossing the region from one place to another between the visits. During on our stay in Langhe we did a few of those and - like I said - getting there from place A to place B really does take some time, even if the places seem they are almost next to each other in Google Maps!
Some great producers one can try to arrange a visit to:
Treiso / Tre Stelle: Cascina delle Rose, Cascina Roccalini, Olek Bondonio, Poderi Colla, Ca’ del Baio
Barbaresco: Produttori, Carlo Boffa, Cascina Luisin, La Ca’ Nova
Neive: Piero Busso, Giacosa Fratelli, Ugo Lequio
You could try to visit Serafino Rivella in Barbaresco - definitely one of the best producers in the region - but I’ve heard it can be quite difficult, if not impossible.
I fully agree on the ‘focus on one village’ approach. With a little careful google map planning, it’s even possible to devise an itinerary for a day, that allows you to park up at a restaurant you’ve booked for lunch, and then walk to the morning and/or afternoon wineries, allowing the designated driver a little leeway on tasting and/or a glass of wine with lunch. Even better if that planning includes a walk through the vineyards to the winery. Not so good if you plan on buying a case or two of wine , but it’s possible to get them to put the wines aside for you to drop by with the car for pickup on the way back.
I’d add Albino Rocca into that Barbaresco list. For my tastes, very good across the full range, including genuinely pleasing white wines.
Also a note on La Ca’ Nova. Previously rather under the radar, but bizarrely now ‘hot’ due to a critic bigging them up. I like the style a lot, but also enjoyed the visit, with rather unglamourous buildings / setting in keeping with the solid wines they make.
For Produttori del Barbaresco, although they have a drop-in tasting room, we found it an utterly underwhelming experience, with aloofness feeling like the person didn’t want to be there, or barring that didn’t want us there . Better perhaps to have an appointment, but I’ve seen a couple of people disappointed in that experience as well. A shame as the wines are a great asset to the region, but I suspect the growing weight of wine tourist numbers sits uncomfortably with them.
I had the same experience at Produttori. Very underwhelming. You’ll have a much better experience visiting the Cantina/Enoteca in the center of town. It’s in a deconsecrated church. The staff are delightful and they should have a few bottles open to taste.
If you’re going for the gold in Barbaresco, you might as well see if you can get into Gaja. You will need a connection who can pull some strings.
Oh - and a highlight restaurant in Barbaresco is Ristorante Antine. We were there for a special tasting, but the regular menu looks terrific.
I tend to agree. We stayed 3 km from the town of Barolo, very close to the Cannubi vineyard. It was super convenient for getting around, and close to alot of good wineries, as well as an easy drive to both Barolo town, and La Morra town.
Heard the same about the Produttori tasting room. I have no time in my life for rude people. So, I gave it a pass, even though I love some of their wines.
Initially I was very careful about consuming wine, while having to drive. After a while became more relaxed, as I never saw a cop anywhere near the winery areas. I was told they are discouraged from picking on people who are visiting the wineries, as it leads to bad press. Hooray!