The picture of the risotto has my mouth watering.
Someone clearly knows what he or she is doing in the kitchen.
Great report!
The picture of the risotto has my mouth watering.
Someone clearly knows what he or she is doing in the kitchen.
Great report!
FWIW we have looked at the direct trains from Paris to Torino which are ~ 7 hours. Not done it yet, but an option for a trip later this year. I doubt weâd do it in both directions, with the thinking that on the way out, the 7 hours will be more relaxing / interesting than the usual flight, but on the return trip we probably just want to get home asap
I just did this on Wednesday, from Gare de Lyon to Turin. About 7 stops, iirc, but theyâre very brief, i.e. it was a fast trip. This was my third time, and I love the journey as I can catch up on reading, work, or nothing. Some of the fastest 7 hours of my life, and in first class (just 46 Euro), and a single seat, itâs both comfortable and private (enough). I was going to take it back in May, but Iâll fly from Palermo (to Paris) after Sicilia en Primeur, instead. cheers
Love the pictures, thanks for sharing!
Thanks Tim
I suppose itâs worth us looking at the option of Ebbsfleet (or a little less convenient - Ashford) for the Eurostar leg. I still donât fancy the change of stations in paris with heavy bags. It definitely feels more manageable for the outwards journey (usually only 10-12 kgs each) - and if we did, itâs so much simpler to overnight in London, and get a 1.5 hr taxi back from the airport on return. Oh for London to Torino!
Regards
Ian
I hear you. In fact, I had/have (3) 20kg bags. Itâs easy though, if you arrive to CDG, go to terminal 2, take the RER to Gare du Nord, then the Metro to Gare de Lyon. I chose to metro to Republique, take care of some quick business, then walk to Gare de Lyon - i had 5 hours to kill; it only took 30 minutes of walking, and felt rather nice after an 8 hour flight from Newark. That said, Iâm glad Iâm in Montalcino tonight (and Italia for the next 74 nights) as opposed to France. But thatâs just me, I suppose. cheers
Likewise Iâm happier in Italy, but my more recent learning of the language has been a little more successful than when I learnt French at school, so thatâs a factor in enjoyment.
France certainly not short of good food, good wine and very good roads (which put the roads in Italy to shame), but itâs the Italian people/culture that for me easily wins over France.
3 x 20kg bags!!?! No need for gym membership if youâre lugging those weights on/off the trains and around the Metro
You should see the alpine strawbs and Nespole appear in a month or so. My two favourite fruits.
Wonderful post Alan, thanks for sharing all the pics. And you have finally revealed your true self to us - you are a foodie! Wine is clearly an afterthought for you .
While I stayed in La Morra on my last trip, we hit entirely different restaurants. A return visit is required, and soon!
3 x 20kg bags!!?! No need for gym membership if youâre lugging those weights on/off the trains and around the Metro
Youâre not a real wine traveler until youâve strapped together two compact styro shippers with fiberglass tape so you can carry ~21 bottles and still come under the 70 lb. (whatever that is in kilos â 33?) transatlantic weight and dimension allowance.
Next stop: Burgundy
This trip was originally organized around two places we had never been, but wanted to visit: Venice and Alsace. The Barolo part got added because, well, itâs kind of on the way, and itâs truffle season! Then my wife said âhow can we not go to Burgundy?â So it got added, no complaints here. Except that it did make each stop a little shorter. The things we do for loveâŠ
I pulled into Beaune, was feeling 'bout half past dead
I just need some place where I can lay my head
Hey, mister, can you tell me, where a man might find a bed?
He just grinned and shook my hand, âSure, how 'bout Najeti HĂŽtel de la Poste?â
Have driven or walked past this place so many times, figured weâd give it a try. Itâs a good location, right on the corner of the ring road and the main 974 wine route heading south. So super easy to walk into Beaune center, and equally easy to get on the road each day. Good breakfast, our room was a bit snug, but fine for our purposes (there are certainly bigger rooms for a price). La Poste is much bigger than you would guess just seeing it from the corner.
Turns out Wednesdays are a bit tricky for restaurants, with quite a few closed, and this Wednesday being All Saints holiday to boot. So we cruised around town a bit, and walked past the Japanese restaurant Bissoh, which some friends back home had recommended. I had heard that it was difficult to get in there, but they had some counter spots open and we were in luck. Then our luck improved when we looked around and saw a wine friend from the Bay area diagonally across from us, whom we joined. Not only is he quite an expert with Japanese food, he likes to drink good wine and is very generous. Iâll call him B.
We let B do most of the food ordering, and he gave me the wine menu.
Carpaccio de poisson blanc
Tempura de fleur de courgette
Mushroom
Tempura gambas
B pointed to a red he wanted to order, but I persuaded him to go with the Rousseau, thinking the lighter elegance of the vintage would be a good match for the food. Then I did a double take on the 2014 Dauvissat Les Clos for 130E, but alas it was either sold out or the owner wasnât in the mood to let us have one. So we had to slum it with a Roulot.
2014 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Meursault (11/1/2017)
So much intensity and depth, umami, saline, beautiful balance. Wonderful wine. (94 pts.)
2011 Domaine Armand Rousseau PĂšre et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/1/2017)
Has the slightly lighter body of many 11s, this is all about finesse and elegance, medium depth cherry/raspberry fruit, fine tannins, delicate and feminine while showing just enough intensity to match its pedigree. Lovely wine, one you wish you could drink every week, but in reality get to drink maybe once a decade. (93 pts.)
When B ordered a seared beef dish, he also ordered his original choice to go with it, a brilliant match
2005 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru (11/1/2017)
Quite a bit darker than the 2011 Rousseau Clos St Jacques it paired with. More masculine to the Rousseauâs lightness and femininity, with deep, darker cherry fruit, a pomegranate note buried in there, plenty of power and verve. Still young, but quite drinkable, and utterly delicious. Fabulous. (95 pts.)
After dinner we headed next door to a wine bar, where B had spent the previous evening. Sadly, he had drunk the last of a bottle he wanted to repeat, so we had to settle for this
2014 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (2/20/2018)
Opened far to early, this needs time in the bottle. There is good depth of fruit, but the structure is a little dominant at this young age. Should be outstanding in time. (92 pts.)
Finally, my wife waved the white flag and headed back to our hotel while B and I ambled the 50 yards to his hotel, Le Cep, to sample a wine he had set aside there, I didnât take any notes. But we did have an exceptional Marc de Bourgogne, which I know little about, except that it is apparently quite rare:
And finished the evening (well, my evening) with one more pour:
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So ends my night of champagne wishes and caviar dreamsâŠ
Visit to Jean-Marc Bouley
My first introduction to Bouleyâs wines was at La Paulee in 2013, where I met the son Thomas, now responsible for the winemaking, and was very impressed with the 2010s being poured. I was finally able to arrange a visit in spring of 2016, when we tasted 2014 barrels and 2013 bottles, both of which are excellent. Thomas graciously allowed us to come back again, this time sampling the 2016 barrels.
Bouley family home and winery in Volnay
Fermentation tanks in the newly constructed winery, completed just in time for the 2016 vintage
Thomas in the barrel room
Didnât take detailed notes, but some impressions of the 2016 barrels:
2016 Volnay Cailleret - very elegant, lovely, Bouleyâs vines are fairly young here
2016 Volnay Clos des Chenes - darker, good depth, more brooding, excellent
2016 Pommard Fremiers - dark, black cherry, fairly structured, bit secretive, great potential
2016 Pommard Rugiens - even darker, more brooding, long term wine.
2016 was obviously a very difficult vintage, with the terrible frost and very low yields. Not much wine. Thomas described 2017 as a very good vintage, with much better yields.
For lunch, we walked into La Dilettante wine bar, a place we enjoyed a couple of times on our 2013 trip. Dilettante is owned and run by Lolo (former owner of Caves Madeleine), along with his wife and sister. We love the casual atmosphere, small but very nice wine selection, and simple menu. You wonât find complex meals here: charcuterie, cheese, pĂątĂ©, maybe a salad, and a daily special or two. No menu, just a chalk board with the dayâs selections that they hold up for you to order from. We already had dinner reservations here for the following evening, but nothing wrong with going here two days in a row.
I eventually struck up a conversation with the nice gentleman who came in after us and sat next to me at the bar
Our second visit was to Faiveley, in Nuits-Saint-Georges, where there is major construction going on. A new winery and barrel storage have been nearly completed, so we got to tour much of this impressive facility.
New fermentation room, supposedly enough vats for every lot that comes in during harvest.
One of a number of barrel rooms
2015 wines
2015 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (11/2/2017)
No obvious ripeness on the nose, medium rich, fairly dark cherry fruit, well structured, some stem and oak tannins (50% new oak), fairly rich, lasting finish, good balance for a somewhat âwarmerâ wine. (92 pts.)
2015 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/2/2017)
More obvious ripeness on the nose, medium rich, has a bit of solar sweetness, though not obviously overripe, fine structure. (91 pts.)
2015 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (11/2/2017)
Medium dark, not quite opaque, beautiful nose showing light spice; very nice elegant dark fruit, not overripe at all, rocky finish. Needs time but should be excellent when it reaches maturity. (93 pts.)
2015 Faiveley Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (11/2/2017)
Elegant, medium body, medium cherry fruit, turns rocky and mineral, with a mouth coating finish. (92 pts.)
2015 Faiveley Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (11/2/2017)
Medium rich, light honey notes, warm flavors. 40% new oak a little more than Iâd prefer. (89 pts.)
2015 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (11/2/2017)
60% new oak, nice quite typical white burg nose, quite rich but balanced, definite warmer vintage notes, but very tasty. Does lack some mineral and tension. (92 pts.)
And a couple of barrel samples
2016 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (11/2/2017)
From barrel at the winery. A bit darker than the 2015 version, light nose, palate shows beautiful dark richness, velvet tannins, a beautiful Cortons. (93 pts.)
2016 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de BĂšze - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de BĂšze Grand Cru (11/2/2017)
From barrel at the winery (one year used barrel). Light nose, beautiful dark fruit, excellent fine structure. Just a snapshot, but showing brilliantly. (94 pts.)
Thursday dinner was at Ma Cuisine. Food was good, wine list is no longer anything like it used to be (and I was never there in the really old days when it was supposedly off the charts). Still fairly extensive, but fewer older vintages, few bargains.
Friday morning was relaxed, just walked around Beaune center, walked into Hess Fromagerie, picked up a couple 15 Gonon (when in Rome, lol), some chocolate, took pictures of flowers my wife told me to.
Our last Burgundy visit was a bucket list item for me, as Bruno Clair is one of my favorite producers, and I hadnât been able to get in there on previous trips. This time I emailed, and they answered about a week later saying âyes, come at this timeâ. So we did.
Oenologist Phlippe Brun tasted us through much of the 2016 lineup from barrel
2016 Bruno Clair barrel samples
Vosne Champs Perdrix - lovely spice nose, elegant, beautiful wine, 92
Gevrey Clos du Fonteny - more lush, slightly sweet, less structure and complexity, 90
Gevrey Petite Chapelle - lush, tasty, nice balance and richness, med light body, 91
Savigny les Beaune Les Dominode - very nice slightly darker fruit, good flavor and structure, some nice complexity, 92
Gevrey Cazetiers - medium body, beautiful elegance, good structure, 92
Gevrey Clos Saint Jacques - medium body, bit more depth, complex, elegant, lovely wine, 93
Chambertin Clos de Beze - light spice nose, good richness, still med body, med light structure, 93
Bonnes Mares - bit darker flavors, more masculine than Beze, excellent structure, medium depth, elegant with subtle power, 94
From bottle:
2011 Gevrey Cazetiers - good color and depth of flavor, quite structured, strong for the vintage, 92
2015 Morey Saint-Denis Blanc âEn la rue Vergyâ - rich, slightly ripe, honey, pineapple, tasty but warm
2015 Corton Charlemagne - rich, round, very tasty, delicious CC, handles the vintage better, still warm but good balance
Last Burgundy dinner was back at La Dilettante, which I had reserved a couple weeks before the trip (recommended, even though it is just a simple wine bar, it is very popular).
Sometimes simple can be tasty
Yum
And a little stroll around town to walk off dinner
Saturday was a day for driving to our next stop, Alsace. But also the Beaune farmers market, which is quite a good one
Goodbye Burgundy, hope to see you again soon
Next stop, AlsaceâŠ
Bravo. Encore!
Thanks for taking the time to post this Alan, really great notes and photos
Fabulous post, thanks Alan.
Is Alsace next, Alan?
Canât wait to see itâŠ
That was Jasper Morris in the photo, right?
Yes and yes
The drive between Beaune and Alsace is pleasant, if a little unexciting. Until we got off the A36 highway to go cross country through a small outcropping of Switzerland, on a quest to stop at Antony Fromagerie in Vieux-Ferrette (fromagerieantony.fr). Ended up chasing some scenery, getting semi-lost, and just letting the GPS re-route us up and over some little pass and back into France. A beautiful drive, but I donât know if I could find it again.
Coming over the pass, we went through a small hamlet, with this interesting restaurant sign
We definitely got off the beaten track onto some narrow country roads
Antony Fromagerie is a legendary Affineur, bringing in and aging cheeses from around France. From their web site:
"Bernard Antony was initially a travelling grocer, of which there were many at that time, criss-crossing the countryside in his little van delivering butter, sugar, coffee and even clothes to the most isolated communities in the surrounding area. One chance meeting, however, was to change his whole professional lifeâŠ
Bernard and Jeanine Antonyâs passion for cheese has come down to us thanks to a 1979 meeting with MaĂźtre (Cheese Master) Pierre AndrouĂ«t, at that time recognised as the leading light on this our white gold. As a result, the first Antony cheese cellar was established in 1983, then the cellar reserved for tasting in 1986. Today Maison Antony houses a total of seven maturing and refinement cellars for its cheeses.
Over time, a considerable number of top class chefs have fallen under the bewitching spell of the Antony cheese cellar, such that today there are around 19 Michelin three star restaurants which place their trust in Antony for their cheese platter selection.
A veritable globe-trotter, Bernard Antony likes nothing better than to spread the word about quality French cheeses - a passion which has taken him from Paris to Hong Kong, from New York to Berlin."
Once we put Alsace on our itinerary, I knew Antony had to be a stop. It is definitely a âdestinationâ, given itâs relative remoteness, and the number of people there. Parked in front were a Bentley, Jaguar, and several other nice cars.
In addition to the cheese counter, there is also a small sit down area to partake in an assortment of cheeses, and a nice wine list.
And a pretty decent little wine shop in the back, with a variety of French wines. I picked up a couple of 2013 Gonon St Joseph.
The cheese detour complete, with more wine and some 36 month Comte vacuum packed to bring home, we hit the road north toward Mulhouse and Colmar. Iâve been to Basel and Strasbourg in years past (even Freiburg, just across the border in Germany), but this is the first time to the Alsace region in between. As with any wine region, being there, seeing the land, topography, towns, talking to the people, even eating the food, brings so much more understanding of the wines and their origins. And of course makes the wines that much more enjoyable to drink back home.
The map below shows the entire region, and makes me think of both Burgundy and northern Rhone, both of which run north/south, with east-facing slopes on which a large fraction of vines are planted. Like those other areas, small towns dot the route, each surrounded by its nearby vineyards, many of which are on sloping, even fairly steep hillsides. Itâs a little more complicated than that, as many of the towns are in little east/west indentations of terrain, with the âbestâ vineyards planted on south facing slopes.
[resizeableimage=664,1024]https://i1.wp.com/winefolly.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Alsace-Wine-Map-France.png[/resizeableimage]
We chose to stay in Ribeauville (Ree-boe-vee-layâ), at Le Clos Saint-Vincent, which is up on the hill above Trimbach and overlooks the vineyards that go into Trimbachâs CuvĂ©e FrĂ©dĂ©ric Emile.
Having spent the day so far driving and eating, it was time to drive and eat some more, off to dinner at Restaurant Taverne Alsacienne, about 20 minutes south in Ingersheim, just outside Colmar (http://www.tavernealsacienne-familleguggenbuhl.com). Very comfortable, warm, white tablecloth, good service, excellent food.
The next day is Sunday, no winery visits, so we used the day to wander around, explore the towns of RibeauvillĂ© and Riquewihr (Rick-veer is as close as I can get). At this point in the year (early November), crowds are gone, the area is largely abandoned, and some establishments, hotels, restaurants will soon close for the winter. The Christmas fairs will bring a burst of activity in December, but right now itâs pretty dead, a bit cold, windy and wet.
Riquewihr is probably the most interesting (and touristy) town in the region. An ancient medieval walled town, the surrounding walls still stand, and there is no lack of beautiful half-timbered houses. Lots of shops, a massive Christmas store, foods, wine, restaurants, everything a good tourist needs. I wondered how the area had fared so well during WWII, given the proximity to Germany, and the fact that it was a focus of conflict between France and Germany for centuries. Hereâs a short read with a focus on WWII history of the region:
Tourism in Alsace trades on its vineyards and photogenic villages, not its complicated past. Reminders of the German occupation and the savage fighting of January 1945 are few, and they are rarely obvious, but they are hereâand can take surprising...
RibeauvillĂ© - has to be, because you canât drive into Riguewihr.
Scenes in and around Riquewihr
Some ancient castles up on the hill at right center
Wasnât really lunch time yet, but couldnât pass up this sausage/potato/onion slurry. Hit the spot on a cold day.
Quite a large Christmas shop
Plenty of little food and knick-knack shops
Sunday dinner was at Restaurant La Grappe dâOr in Riquewihr (http://www.restaurant-grappedor.com). Interesting split level place with three dining areas, one on the main floor, another below, and a third area upstairs with such a low ceiling I donât think you can even stand up fully. Good, hearty, traditional local food.
Filet de boeuf rÎti, cÚpes, céleri, noisettes et gratin dauphinois / Rindsfilet, steinpilz, haselnuss, kartoffel gratin / Filet of beef, mushrooms, nuts, potatoes gratin
Médaillons de filet mignon de porc au citron confit, spÀtzles maison / Klein schweinfilets und spÀtzles / Tenderloin of pork with noodles
Gnome guarding the staircase
Monday, finally some wine visits! Starting with Trimbach
The Grand Cru vineyards from which Frederic Emile is sourced, rising behind the tower
We had a somewhat abbreviated tasting, because the American sales team was in town, and wanted the tasting room to themselves. I was tempted to just go sit down with them and give them a bit of marketing feedback, lol. But we got to taste a good range of wines, and then had a nice tour of the entire facility
A few short notes:
2015 Muscat - very nice, nice intensity, easy drinker, but doesnât come to the U.S.
2014 Riesling Vieilles Vignes (grey label) - very nice, a little more punch than the Frederic Emile, steely and mineral. First time Iâve seen this, not sure if itâs new, or just hasnât been in the U.S. Wine Searcher shows earlier vintage, but 2015 looks like the first to come here.
2008 Riesling âFrĂ©dĂ©ric Emileâ - good reserved fruit, tastes dry, mineral, slight deceptive tartness given the RS, not completely dry but not at all sweet. Quite nice
2007 Riesling âFrĂ©dĂ©ric Emileâ - completely dry, leaner, even more mineral than the 2008, classic FE
2013 Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle - very nice, lightly rich, good balance, softer and easy to drink
2011 Gewurztraminer Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre - nice med light depth, very correct, dry and mineral, though a bit underwhelming in comparison to the best vintages Iâve had
My first Alsatian Pinot, and hopefully my lastâŠ
Some older library wines
There are a range of fermentation and aging casks/tanks, including wood, steel, concrete, fiberglass
Wine is transported through these pipes, by gravity, from one area of the winery to another
Bottle storage for yet to be released wines. Trimbach holds back its best wines several years after vintage before releasing to the market
They have essentially a full time staff for bottling
Our next visit came about serendipitously, when we happened to run into board member Robert Panzer arriving at Bouley in Volnay as we were leaving. Upon hearing we were heading next to Alsace, he offered to get us an appointment at Dirler-Cade, one of the producers he brings in to the U.S. market. Dirler is south of Colmar, in the small hamlet of Bergholtz, so a bit of a drive. But Alsace is not Los Angeles, and with no traffic there was no problem tasting at Dirler and getting back up to our 4:00 appt at Weinbach in Kaysersberg.
Dirler-Cade is down on the flat plain, below its vineyards. This is the nearby town of Bergholtzzell, just up the road
Four different types of rocks found in the various vineyards. More information here: Home - Dirler Cadé
From Wineanorakâs web site (The wines of Dirler Cade, Alsace)
âThis domaine, in the far south of the region, dates back to 1871 when Jean Dirler founded it; itâs now in its fifth generation, with Jean-Pierre Dirler (4th) and his son Jean (5th) in charge. In 1998 Jean married Ludivine CadĂ©, and in 2000 the vineyard holdings of the two families were merged to form Dirler-CadĂ©. This resulted in a domaine of 18 hectares, of which 42% consists of Grand Cru vineyards: Saering, Spiegel, Kessler and KitterlĂ©.â Jean-Pierre hosted us, though speaking only French we used a lot of hand waving, and some google translate.
This was my first introduction to the Dirler-Cade wines. We tasted through about 20 bottles, all very nice, beautifully precise, with great balance. Preference for the Rieslings and Muscat. The Gewurz are all a bit sweet, which for me takes a bit away from the real character of that variety. Bought a few to take home, just because itâs fun to have something directly from a domaine, then bought a few more from Robert.
Last visit was to Weinbach, in Kaysersberg. If you go, hereâs a tip: donât look for âWeinbachâ on any signs, look for âFallerâ, which is the family name. We were hosted by Eddy Leiber-Faller, younger son of Catherine, and now the winemaker (if I understand correctly). His english is perfect, having studied in the U.S., and lived around the world. No tour, just a simple tasting of a few wines in the old parlor of the family estate.
I have bought and drunk Weinbach wines for many years, though gradually moved toward drier wines from some other producers. The one Weinbach wine I almost always find most enjoyable is their Riesling âSchlossbergâ, which is typically fairly dry. Most of their other bottlings have some RS, which can make them quite delicious, but not quite what my palate is looking for.
An enjoyable, though brief, visit. Itâs possible during the busier summer time, there is more going on here.
Last dinner in Alsace was at Wistub du Sommelier, in the little village of Bergheim, a mile or so north of Ribeauvillé. A lovely restaurant, with excellent regional food and wine list. Every table and place setting is unique, and perfectly laid out. Loved the experience, atmosphere, and food, highly recommended
Thanks for reading, a couple of Champagne producer visits next, and maybe some Paris restaurants to wrap up.
Thanks Alan! Great pictures and photos.
We met at Aupres du Clocher in Pommard in 2012 or 2013, if you recall. You came over and shared a bottle of wine with a group of us as you were leaving.
Any tasting notes on that Trimbach Pinot Noir?
John O, of course I remember you! Great night, enjoyed chatting after dinner. And I remember being envious of several of your producer visits I remember we had a Roulot lieu dit at our table, but sadly canât remember what you shared with us.
Jonathan, I didnât write down anything on the wine, but from memory I can say a bit thin, weedy, and acidic. Wish I had something nicer to say about it. And I would think the warmth of 2015 should have given it as good a chance to be decent as any vintage could.
Loving everything so far. Looking forward to Champagne!
Great pictures and write-up Alan. Do you know the name of the wine bar in Beaune where you got the Mugneret-Gibourg?