Wine impressions 9-28-26
2023 Faury, St. Joseph La Gloriette VV - 13% abv; tannic and tight but not closed, good depth and balance, lovely St. Joe fruit behind the wall of tannin and the structure; with air, there is some integration and with food, the tannins melt. Probably best to hold 4-5 years before trying another. But it’s all there - if it shakes out, this could be exceptional.
Fine.
2023 Extradimensional Wine Co., Mourvèdre Evangelho Vnyd. - 13% abv; engaging aromatics - red and black fruit, savory accents, some garrigue and spice; vibrant fruit in the mouth, complex, shape shifting, structured but no harsh edges and I get the feeling these grapes saw some wind; great length. It may not be the 2021 but it’s so close; perhaps in a year or two.
Very fine, indeed.
(Aside: I tasted the very first vintage of this wine from barrel and every vintage since. I usually buy a case each year and have tasted all those vintages at many times over the years. My surmise: this bottling, year after year, is the most enjoyable domestic red wine that I’ve tasted. I am fortunate to have a good stash in my cellar and look forward to several more years of “as good as it gets.”
Thanks, Hardy.)
2013 Vincent, Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills - 13% abv; my first couple bottles of this were good but not memorable - this bottle was so much more. Elegant, fragrant, fruit filled, integrated and greater than the sum of its parts. Memorable in every way.
Fine.
2020 Pieropan, Calvarino - 12.5% abv; Soave doesn’t come much better; broad, bright and focused with flavors that penetrate and complexity that is second to none. An exceptional wine, the epitome of Soave and all anyone could ask of Garganega.
Very fine.
2021 Cune, Rioja Crianza - 13% abv; $17 in most stores and worth twice the price; first, it smells and tastes like Rioja, it’s balanced, nuanced, dry, structured and well made. Five years has not hurt it and I see no reason it won’t go another five. There aren’t many under $20 red wines I’d put in this quality category.
Fine.
2025 Kir-Yianni, L’Esprit du Lac VV Rosé - 13% abv; from Greece, 100% Xinomavro, very pale, as it warms there’s a bit more viscosity than expected but it’s still bright with cut, strawberry scents and flavors with good length. Once at room temp, it’s still balanced and juicy.
Very good.
2024 Elena Walch, Schiava - from the Alto Adige, transparent, lively, dry and reminds me of a savory Beaujolais. Best with a slight chill.
Good.
2018 Gulielmus, Taurasi Riserva - (decanted 3 hours) 14% abv; opaque, lots of garrigue tones in a big, intense dark fruit and coffee nose; rich and savory in the mouth, quite complex, tannic but not drying, mouth-coating; good length. A big ol’ mouthful of wine and the complexity makes it endlessly interesting.
Fine.
2017 La Montagne, Chenin Blanc - initially disjointed but with 30 minutes of air, a pleasing, sappy chenin with good balance and sustain.
Good.
2015 Christian Clerget, Chambolle-Musigny - 13% abv; pretty much where you want it with Chambolle markers in a lightweight, elegant Burgundy. Nice layering, lovely balance and it engages the mind. Pretty wine but I would not age it further.
Fine.
Best, Jim