Wine impressions 9-20-26
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Les Clos - 13% abv; all the early lactic notes are gone and there’s a richness on the palate that does not cloy or feel heavy, a little blurry in the mouth but still good acidity, quite broad and mouth-filling and good sustain. Not yet knit together but showing all the right stuff.
Fine.
2023 Sandlands, Trousseau - 12.2% abv; fruit-filled, excellent savory nuance, light to medium weight, focused, structured, a touch dusty and well layered. A superb showing, albeit young.
Very fine.
2023 Mendes & Symington, Alvarhino Contacto - 13% abv; fresh but with a bit of bottom-end depth, precise flavors but good integration, good structure and length. The brief skin-contact in fermentation just fleshes out the texture.
Fine.
N/V Pierre Peters, Champagne Cuvée de Reserve Grand Cru - 12% abv; bright, complex, nice bead, long finish and overall, a complete wine that is a pleasure to sip.
Very fine.
2024 Dom. Tempier, Rosé - 11-14% abv (according to the label); this bottle is so much more generous and open than the first several; I’m starting to think the vintage hype may be true. Completely satisfying (which I can’t say for many rosés) and only going to get better.
Very fine.
2019 Benoit Cantin, Irancy Le Grande Côte - 13% abv; a rich, concentrated wine with structure and more savory, earthy tones than the nose indicates; reminds me a bit of Pommard; this should take several years to calm and integrate but it was a good experience this evening.
Fine.
N/V Dhondt-Grellet, Champagne Dans un Premier Temps - 12% abv; yeasty nose, some pear and apple but the yeast persists, fine and ample bead, considerable flavor in the finish.
Fine.
2008 Charles Heidsieck, Champagne Brut - more balanced than the preceding wine but with less edge; much more “correct” and expected but no less energetic.
Fine.
2009 Gaja, Gaja & Rey - 14.5% abv; Chardonnay I’m told, big, mouth-filling, a touch candied, just a bit too much in the mouth and not enough on the finish. Interesting but not fascinating.
Good.
2013 Armand Rousseau, Charmes-Chambertin - 13% abv; controlled, completely of its place, precise balance with enough edge to bring life to each sip; youthful but not closed and something it’s easy to pour another glass of. Good now, maybe more later.
Very fine.
2004 Comtes Lafon, Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu - 14% abv; tight, tannic, young and not all that pleasing; a bit of aquarium on the nose and drying on the palate; the beginnings of the Volnay texture but not integrated. We are way too early here.
Very good.
2008 Vieux Telegraph, CdP - nicely resolved, of a piece and texturally delightful. A very nice wine without a wow factor but all the delicious one needs.
Very fine.
1994 Fonseca, Port - surprisingly nimble and generous with a delicate feel to it despite its fortification. Showing much better than anticipated but miles to go.
Very fine.
2001 Weinbach, Riesling Schlossberg L’Inedit! - brassy color, bright sweetness, rich without cloying and none of the shower curtain/petrol stuff intruding. At 25, something of a rara avis.
Very fine.
Best, Jim