Wine impressions 6-12-26
2022 Dom. Christian Clerget, Chambolle-Musigny - showing very young and unformed but so distinctly Chambolle as to make me smile. Needs 8-10 years if you ask me and has the depth of a premier cru.
Fine.
N/V Ruinart, Champagne Rosé - well made, pretty and fresh but I often find rosé bubbles a touch sweet and this is no exception.
Very good.
2023 Dolceacqua, Posau - Rossese grape (a/k/a Tibouren) in a light-weight, bright, slightly rustic style without artifice. Nuanced, precise and persistent; and exceptional with cheese soufflé.
Fine.
2023 Massican, Gemina - a blend of Greco, Fahlingina and Fiano; lots of energy, mouthwatering acids, light-weight but smoothly textured and delightful.
Fine.
2024 Cos, Frappato - although the flavors are different, the same delivery as those light, low alcohol brightness Gamays I loved from days gone by. Charming.
Very good.
2019 Louis Michel, Chablis Vaudesir - it’s no wonder this is my favorite vineyard in Chablis; intense, dimensional, somewhat floral and a beautifully balanced core of fruit and acidity. And one hell of a finish.
No rush.
Very fine, indeed.
2023 Louis Michele, Chablis Forets - depending on the bottle, either starting to lose its baby fat or shutting down. A year’s nap seems appropriate, although it may need more.
Fine.
2017 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - the first bottle I’ve tasted of this that wasn’t closed or too distinctly CA. More like a St. Joseph today, albeit a young one. Shows promise.
Very good.
2025 Ameztoi, Rubentis - pomegranate smells and flavors with a little marjoram detail. Light fizz. Yummy.
Good.
2024 Ilarria, Irouleguy Rosé - more power/serious than the preceding wine and a bit more complexity. A bit more weight as well but still quite bright.
Very good.
2022 Rollin, Pernand-Vergelesses - as far as I’m concerned, the way Pinot should taste. Medium weight at best, layered, transparent, complex, precise and long. Perfect balance and lots of room to develop. ‘Love this.
Fine.
2019 Dirty & Rowdy, Mourvèdre Evangelho - the vineyard makes all the difference and Hardy’s fine hand respects that. Still youthful but soulful, as well. Damn. Good. Wine.
Fine.
2024 Mendes, Alvarhino Contacto - the must was allowed to stay in contact with the juice for a couple hours after pressing; an interesting take on the grape and IMO, will benefit from a year or two in bottle.
To be clear, not an orange wine.
Good.
2022 Descombes, Brouilly - light-weight, full flavored, balanced and lively Beaujolais that I really enjoyed. More of that low alcohol brightness I search for; lovely stuff.
Fine.
2025 Dom de Majas, Blanc - 11.5% abv, a four grape blend and destined to be another “house white” for us. I could drink this anytime.
Very good.
2023 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis - (a gift hand carried back from Paris); about as good as village Chablis gets. Very close to premier cru quality and had not suffered from its journey.
Fine.
(Caveat: I no longer buy this producer; the incidence of premox is alarming and the prices are stupid.)
2013 Cowan Cellars, Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - for many years, this was monolithic and muddled, even though I always felt this was my best Pinot. It has come of age and is really quite good. Full flavored, complex, smooth but balanced and indicative of the vintage. Faith is a good thing.
Fine.
Best, Jim