This is such an amazing wine!
Who are your favorite producers of Cru Beaujolais?
Quite a laundry list. Brun, Chermette, Coudert, Descombes, Foillard, Lapierre, and Metras, among others.
Which other vintages have you enjoyed?
05 - 09 inclusive. 03 and 04 not so much. Didn’t discover them until 2003+.
Has there been a stylistic shift through the last several years, outside of 2009?
Insufficient data!
What are a few of your favorite Crus
Fleurie, Brouilly (and CdB), Chiroubles, Morgon not necessarily in that order, preferring charm to power.
RT
2009 Duboeuf Chiroubles: Clean, bright and correct. There’s the ripeness of the vintage and plenty of crunchy red things pinging around the mouth along with sweet jube like traits. It is quite bright and whilst the label boasts a purple flower I’m quite certain there’s a big whiff of purple flowers on the nose (perhaps its just the power of suggestion). Acidity is fine and supportive and I reckon in 3-5 years the wine will have developed some quite interesting things.
2009 Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages: The fruit is ripe and squishy with a purple, plummy edge. There are notes of dried flowers and herbs and it has good depth and volume for its level. There’s plenty going on with an inviting lick of strawberries and cream and it will probably be best drunk over the next two years.
Virtually every pro tasting note (and at least one amateur note above) address, with caution and/or skepticism, the fact that Lapierre and others employ a no/low sulphur regimen. At a minimum, optimal storage conditions are recommended, which only makes sense. But can any one chip in with some hard-core drinking experiences, good or bad, on no/low-sulphur BoJos? It becomes particularly important if you drop $40 a bottle on something like Lapierre’s MMIX Morgon luxury cuvee that he says should not be touched for a minimum of a decade…
Bill - that’s an interesting issue. As you know, a lot depends on the handling the wine has received during shipping. I’ve had a few side by side bottles and they were vastly different. And I’m just finishing drinking my way through a case of low-sulfur wine that was really great - in theory. In practice, 8 of 10 bottles were oxidizing.
No fool, Lapierre had a slightly different regime for the wines that were destined for shipping. But my wife, practical as ever, had the clearest comment when I poured a Lapierre for her. Wrinkling her nose in disgust at what she smelled in the glass, she looked at me and asked “WTF?” I explained to her all about low sulfur, horses and buggies, old-time winemaking, etc., and she just looked at me. When I was done, she said “Yeah. Well we’re past that now.”
I’m not sure I disagree with her. The back story is nice but finally it’s the wine in the glass that matters. He had a bit of funkiness that some people will like and others won’t but finally it’s the wine that you’re judging. Ultimately I don’t think the question is about sulfur alone, nor do I think more or less sulfur equates to better or worse winemaking. I’d go for a proven producer rather than focus on a sulfur regimen. Given your preferences, at least insofar as I am aware of them, none of the better producers are going to produce wine you’re likely to hate. And for me, I’m increasingly distrustful of the producers who eschew sulfur, mostly because it adds a layer of randomness to whatever wine I’m having.
The 2000 Domaine du Granite Moulin-a-Vent still needs some time. It’s not totally shut down, and shows some deep, dusty, cherry fruit. But it will certainly be better in another 3 years and probably better yet in another few after that. Showed some nice aromas when poured at cellar temp but then shut down pretty hard for the next two hours. Been slowly opening ever since. I think I only have one more; so sad.
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2005 Georges Dubœuf Brouilly Domaine de Grand Croix - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly (2/19/2011)
It took a bit of air for the nose to come around, but eventually some cedar peaked out. The palate also took a little while to come out but finally showed red fruits/cherries along with a bit of cedar from the tannins. Still a very nice wine that will hold together for a couple of more years, but won’t get any better in that time. So time to drink up. Paired well with tonight’s thick pork chops. (88 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Decided to post all my 2009 tasting notes in one spot.
1) 2009 Morgon (Drouhin) - 13% - $14.99
Dark purple-red color. Floral nose of black cherries, violets, minerals and face powder.
Powerful sappy stony fruit with a long, intense, penetrating finish of plum skins.
Tons of dry extract here. Should age and improve for several years. Let it sleeeeep.
Obviously, a WORLD CLASS QPR!!! I bought me some! [93 pts]
2) 2009 Morgon “Les Micouds” (Domaine Rochette) - 13.5 % alcohol - $20.99
Dark crimson color. Fragrant floral nose of cinnamon, violets and face powder.
Deep, rich raspberry fruit with tons o’ minerals and a touch of salinity.
Fine acid and some tannins in the long, tangy, lipsmackin’ pomegranate aftertaste.
This is one serious Morgon and a bargain at the price!
Yum-city. I bought me some. [92+ pts]
3) 2009 Ch. des Jacques “Clos de Rochegres” Moulin-A-Vent (Jadot) - 14% alcohol
Inky purple red. Fabulous nose of sour cherry/black raspberry, raw meat, smoke and iodine.
Very rich, luscious, mouth coating, powerful black fruited gamay with a endless finish of unsweetened dark chocolate. Fine acid and ripe tannins assure a long productive aging process.
There is some oak present but certainly is in no way overdone and will EASILY be swallowed up and completely absorbed given time. This is a big boy but perfectly balanced. NOTE: Make sure this is drunk at cellar temp where all Beau should be!
One of the finest Moulin-A-Vents I’ve experienced. Will age a long time but approachable now. My highest recommendation. I bought me some! [94 pts]
4) 2009 Fleurie “Les Garants” (Domaine Vissoux) - 13% alcohol
Medium-dark purple. Fine nose of plums, pine sap, tea, and cinnamon.
Spicy, high toned entry leads to a very long, intense citric, minerally, tangy, lip smackin’ sour cherry/pomegranate finish.
Great structure, acid and super ripe tannins mate perfectly with the luscious berry fruits present in this great wine. Super aging potential. Still another great 2009 Beau! [94+ pts]
5) 2009 Moulin A Vent “Trois Roches” (Domaine Vissoux) - 13% alcohol
Dark purple-red color. Fabulous nose of iron, raw beef, white pepper and darker fruits.
Powerful, penetrating, deep, spicy cassis fruit with a very long sappy saline aftertaste.
Like it’s sister, this big brother exhibits great acid/fruit balance with ripe tannins.
A classic MaV! [94+ pts]
6) 2009 Morgon (Chateau de Pizay) - $13.99 - 13.0% alcohol
Dark purple color. Deep, ripe nose of cassis and roses.
Rich, ripe darker fruited wine with a long, slightly hot finish.
A bit overblown but still a nice mouthful for BBQ usage.
Decent QPR. Not my cup o’ tea. [86+ pts]
7) 2009 Morgon “Cote du Py VV” (J-M Burgaud) - 13.0% - $18.99
Dark purple-red. Resiny nose of iodine, minerals, coconut and red fruits.
Brooding, medium bodied cranberry/pomegranate fruit with a long DRY finish.
Balanced acid with ripe tannins. Quite primary at the moment and a little flat to my taste.
Young, needing time, but the level of fruit vs the dryness concerns me. [88+ pts]
8) 2009 Chateau de Lavernette Beaujolais Villages $14.99 - 13% alcohol
Medium-dark violet color. Rich, nutty, red fruits nose with hints of Iodine and Iron.
Lean, high toned, minerally, sour cherry fruit with a tart cherry pit aftertaste.
The brisk acid and firm stony profile was quite refreshing and begs for short term consumption.
[87+ pts]
9) 2009 Chiroubles (Daniel Bouland) $24.99 - 13.5% alcohol
Inky purple red color. Somewhat reticent raspberry liquore nose with a hint of coffee.
Fine, subtle, pure, black cherry fruit with a lipsmackin’ aftertaste.
Not a blockbuster but really nice for short to mid term pounding.
For lightly flavored foods only. [89+ pts]
10) 2009 Morgon “Jean Descombes” (Duboeuf) $14.99 - 13.0% alcohol
Rich purple red color.Ripe nose of strawberry/raspberry with a touch of red roses.
Firm, rather simple cranberry fruit with a tangy finish. Nothing special.
A disappointment, all things considered. [87 pts]
11) 2009 Morgon “Corcelette” VV (Daniel Bouland) - $24.99 - 13.5% alcohol
Inky purple red. Smokey, stony, funky floral nose with chocolate cherry and framboise.
Rich, intense minerality with a core of iron infused, black raspberry styled fruit.
Solid ripe tannins and acids gives this wine the “Lipsmackin’ Factor” to the long finish.
Although young, this wine is delicious now but certainly will age and improve for several years.
I bought me some! [92+ pts]
12) 2009 Morgon “VV” (Thevenet) - $29.99 - 13% alcohol
Medium red. Complex nose of wintergreen, ginger ale and roses wrapped up in a cornucopia of red fruit aromas. Rich, spicy, ripe, round framboise tinged fruit with a hint of tea.
This is luscious and can be pounded now as the acid level is relatively low and the wine is quite forward. For short to medium term consumption.
Although the wine is nicely balanced and I can recommend it, it doesn’t have that tangy, lipsmackin’ quality I look for in a great Beau. Plus it is a highly priced wine.
Many will appreciate it more than I. Still,[91 pts]
13) 2009 Ch. des Jacques Morgon (Jadot) - $19.99 - 13% alcohol
Medium-dark crimson red. Spicy, smokey, minerally red fruits nose.
Lean, high toned, high acid, tart rhubarb fruit profile with extreme minerality.
Have no idea how or if this wine will develop. It’s angularity vs fruit level is troubling.
It would have to take on some fat and body to compensate.
With all the obvious winners in 2009, why take a chance?
It’s refreshing to drink now and goes well with a lot of foods because of it’s structure.
For now: (87+ pts)
14) 2009 Ch. des Jacques Moulin-A-Vent (Jadot) - $19.99 - 13.5% alcohol
Dark purple/red color. Fine nose of framboise, tar, dark chocolate and minerals.
Highly structured, minerally cassis fruit entry led to a firm, dry, cherry pit aftertaste.
This is quite young and undeveloped but all things are there for a fine drink given several years.
But not even close to the 2009 Ch. des Jacques “Clos de Rochegres” version.
For now: (89 pts)
15) 2009 Villa Poinciago Fleurie “La Reserve” - 13% - $19.95
Medium/Dark violet red. Complex nose of ginger, violets and spice.
Powerful, mouthwatering, lipsmackin’, minerally, cherry/raspberry fruit with a long, long aftertaste.
Great acid and ripe tannins assure a long life. This is soooo bright, focused, structured and pure.
Young but enjoyable now. An absolute must buy! [94 pts]
16) 2009 Beaujolais Villages “Le Pot” (Louis Tete) - 13.0% - $10.99
Violet/crimson red. Fine nose of spice, violets and face powder.
Light bodied, simple cherry/cranberry fruit. A quaffer nothing more. [84+ pts]
17) 2009 Morgon “Les Charmeuses” (Louis Tete) - 13% - $14.99
Medium/dark purple red. Fine nose of roses, smoke and mushroom.
Spicy medium bodied strawberry fruit with a touch of Necco Wafer. Tannic finish.
Again, a simple, somewhat diluted wine, especially for the appellation.
Another quaffer. [85+ pts]
18) 2009 Domaine des Braves Regnie - 13% alcohol - $17.50
Pretty purple/crimson color. Fabulous ripe floral nose of spice, roses and dark fruits.
Luscious, hedonistic Gamay fruit of Black Cherry Liquore leading to a very long, firm, slightly tannic finish.
Great acid adds to the punch. Packed to the brim with fruit!A GREAT QPR! I bought me some. [92 pts]
19) 2009 Les Gryphees Moulin a Vent - 13% - $21.25
Nice purple/red color. Somewhat muted, exotic pineapple/coconut nose.
A somewhat leaner, structured, mineral tinged effort with some decent depth.
Raspberry/pomegranate fruit with ripe tannins. Needs time [90+ pts]
20) 2009 Jean Calot Morgon VV Cuvee Unique - 13% - $24.75
Dark purple/crimson color. Great nose of roses and violets;quite floral.
Spicy, powerful, minerally, primary chocolate cherry fruit with a very long finish of blackberries.
Has ripe tannins and good acid. This has great balance and should age like a fine Burgundy.
Kind of a blend between the above two wines with all the best aspects of each.
One of the finest Cru Beaujolais in my experience. I bought me some. [94 pts]
21) 2009 Jean Calot Morgon VV Cuvee Unique - 13% - $24.75
Dark purple/crimson color. Great nose of roses and violets;quite floral.
Spicy, powerful, minerally, primary chocolate cherry fruit with a very long finish of blackberries.
Has ripe tannins and good acid. This has great balance and should age like a fine Burgundy.
Kind of a blend between the above two wines with all the best aspects of each.
One of the finest Cru Beaujolais in my experience. I bought me some. [94 pts]
22) 2009 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py - 13% alcohol
Dark purple-red. Great nose of pine sap, violets, forest floor with a touch of Bazooka Bubble gum. Very Exotic!
A complex mouthful of minerals, olives, earth, plums with a lot of floral undertones. Fine balance. Long, long lipsmackin’ aftertaste.
This is flat out a great wine.Marginally prefer it to the equally great 2007.
Can’t wait to see how this develops. Bought a case. [94+ pts]
TTT
Thanks for the notes Paul,
I know you’ve been on a Beaujolais kick for the last few months. Have you enjoyed the 09s over say 08s or any other vintage?
What would you say might be a common thread in the vintage?
2009 Jean Marc Burgaud Beaujolais Villages Chateau de Thulon - I had the 2008 about a year ago and it was interesting to compare the vintages:
Nice beaujolais villages from an excellent vintage. It is grapey gamay on the nose (of course) but with the strawberry (Frankenberry?) note so prominent in the vintage. My bottle was not flabby at all, instead it was pleasantly, if barely, plush on entry, fading to a lean midpalate with good acidity to carry for a fairly long finish. But the fruit flavor was a bit muted, losing its early vigor I suppose. I have had this wine from other vintages as well and in fact the fruit is always a bit mute IIRC. But it is still a nice drink. I had this at cellar temp but I would suggest maybe half an hour in the fridge or ten minutes in an ice bucket.
2009 Domaine du Calvaire de Roche-Grès Chiroubles Didier Desvignes
Great albeit simple Cru Beaujolais, well worth the $12 tariff. Neon purple. The nose has more character than the palate, raspberries and limestone. Clean, simple red berries on the palate, nice acidic cut. (88 pts.)
Late to the party here, but just in case anyone is reading this as an archive, here goes:
While our battle of the beaujolais never worked out, we did manage to drink two contrasting beaujolais on two different nights:
2009 Foillard Morgon Cote du Py: always a favorite producer of mine, along with Metras and Lapierre. I’m already 2 bottles into my stash, and this wine never disappoints. Bright fruit matching the bright color of the wine at this point, but underlying tanins and acid that provide a great balance. Elegant and substantial at the same time. The hint of violets especially pleasing with mustard sauce. Delicious now and good for the long haul. I only hope I can keep my hands off of it to find out.
2005 Jadot Ch des Jacques Moulin a Vent: the second time I’ve had this wine. Brooding, rustic, brambly fruit with big underlying tannins, not unlike old school Gevrey, although there are many hints you’re drinking gamay not pinot noir. Paired with braised rabbit, with wine and porcini, which suited both bunny and wine. Drinking now with the right pairing, but this is a long haul, big girl beverage. Checking back in 10 years wouldn’t be a bad idea.
Thanks. Foillard is top-shelf for sure.
Thanks, Greg!
That was an OUTSTANDING post… 8 years ago.
Thanks!