Renee and I headed out to California at the end of August to work harvest for the third straight year at Scholium Project. Since most fruit is delayed this year we had time in between working harvest, and the many dinners and parties to visit several wineries. Our first visit was to Wind Gap (we also visited Hirsch Vineyards and Rhys - notes to come). Pax and Ryan could not have been nicer. It was the beginning of harvest and a very busy time yet they spent over two hours with us. After an extensive tasting where we tasted everything in bottle and barrel we hung out with Pax, Ryan and his wife Pam and the Arnot-Roberts gang who share the facility with Wind Gap for lunch.
An awesome group of people making some of the best wine in California.
THE wines – I think these are VERY important wines. Pax and a few other producers have consciously chosen to lower alcohol levels and the results are impressive. They are making great wines that are balanced, ripe (to a degree) and are still able to display the uniqueness of their individual Terroir. The wines have energy, are pure, go well with food and most importantly ARE California wines.
2008 Yuen Central Coast Chardonnay
Approximately 50% James Berry and 50% Brousseau. I was very excited to learn about the James Berry component as I loved the White Helix James Berry Chardonnay. The 07 Brousseau is also one of my favorite Chardonnays so I was eager to try this.
Bright, murky golden color. Not quite as cloudy as the 07 Brousseau. Extremely balanced with enormous minerality. Pure and fresh. The wine completed malolactic fermentation so it is a full-bodied wine but not over-the-top.
2008 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
Again very fresh, clean with lots of chalk and minerality. Lots of energy and pure Chardonnay expression.
The Chardonnays are fermented in concrete and steel which I think gives them an interesting texture and dimension. I also think the minimal use of S02 gives them energy and freshness.
2008 Pinot Gris
20% Skin Fermented. Pure, mineral, floral, slightly viscuous with bright red fruit characteristics. I really love both the 07 and the 08 Pinot Gris – it would be interesting to see a 100% skin fermented experiment next to the 20%.
12.5% abv.
2008 Santa Cruz Mountains Woodruff Vineyards Pinot Noir
Awesome and shocking!! 12.5% abv!!!
I was expecting to like the Chardonnays since I have had the 07s and of course knew the Syrahs would be good but the Pinot really shocked me – it reminded me of a light bodied Jura Pinot Noir (A style and region I love).
Very light see through color yet explosive aromatic profile. Lots of perfume and pure Pinot character. Beautiful tart cherry with just the right amount of earthiness.
2007 Sonoma Coast Syrah
2% Viognier
100% whole cluster
Explosive nose of bacon fat and pepper but balanced and not too ripe or over-the-top. Great tannins and incredible structure.
2007 Castelli-Knight Ranch, Russian River Valley Syrah
30-40% New oak
100% whole cluster
The soil is orange clay
Lots of perfumed aromatics. Violets. Minerality. Some bacon fat. Pepper! Herbs. A hint of menthol. Extremely complex and balanced.
2007 Griffins Lair Sonoma Coast Syrah
Floral, spice and bacon. Very intense and a slightly larger profile than the Castelli-Knight.
2008 Booker Cotes du Rhone Blend (Barrel sample)
100% whole cluster
The Grenache comes through loud and clear. Carmel, perfume, lots of fruit. Explosive. Some violets.
2006 Nebbiolo West Paso (Barrel sample)
Intense dark and brooding wine. Massive. Exciting experiment that will be interesting to follow over a very long time because this wine needs some age.
Also tasted a pure Mourvedre that will most likely be used in a blend that was amazingly funky – I loved it on its own but I am sure I would be in the minority.
Overall an amazing array of profound wines….