This is still a wine type that confounds me. The 2009s have generally been very good. I’ve reviewed a handful of the most notable producers on my site.
The production is smaller than neighboring Brunello, to which Vino Nobile is compared. I think that comparison is unfair.
In my mind, the best producers (in no order) are Boscarelli, Poliziano, Avignonesi. Other notable producers not in this tier would be Dei, Fattoria del Cerro and Valdipiatta. I have hopes for Cerro now that Cotarella has arrived.
By and large these wines are good at the estate level, but never special. Most make an upper level version, but they are not easily found. (Asinine & Noccio) Do we have any fans of these wines here and if so, what am I missing?
I have had a few bad experiences, but was very impressed with the Asinone the one time i tried it. As you mention, they are just more difficult to find, especially around where i source from, so i often just pass on them and focus on BDM and Chianti
I generally agree. I love Avignonesi (both their basic VNdM and especially their Grandi Annate) and Poliziano. I always look for Avignonesi BNdM on restaurant a wine list that otherwise might not have any good selections, since it is dependably good, which is rare for a wine in the $30-$50 range on a wine list.
I am not generally impressed by the Fattoria del Cerro base-level VNdM…I recently had a bottle and found it difficult to drink and enjoy at all. I have had some stunning bottles of their Antica Chiusa and pretty good bottles of their Riserva VNdM.
Basically, there just aren’t enough quality producers in this area to make it worth spending a lot of time thinking about. The only one I will seek out is the Avignonesi Grandi Annate. If I happen to see the Asinone, etc., I’ll pick up bottle or two, but I’m generally never out “searching” for new and existing VNdM…
I’ve gone out of my way to try VNdM and have not been hooked. For me it is not a matter of quality. I can’t get past the flavor profile. The ones I’ve tried have too much truffle note for my taste. It is strange because I love sangiovese and I’ve enjoyed it from everywhere else.
I always have some in the cellar. To me, they provide a reasonably priced Sangiovese alternative to BdM/Rosso and Chianti when I’m in the mood for something a little different (there is definitely a different flavor profile). Avignonesi is my regular go to (I had a very nice visit there last year) but I also tend to buy Poliziano and Cerro.
Love them as a Chianti/BdM alternative. Flavor profile is very different, rustic and earthy and herbal, but the wines don’t lack in power and structure. They are frequently good deals on restaurant lists.
I buy them frequently. I think they pair wonderfully with many red sauce Italian dishes and the truffle profile adds layers to the pairing. I typically let them age to a min of 5 years old before opening and often at least 10 years. VNdM is a great food wine, but certainly not a sit down and swill wine.
I don’t know that I ever got truffles in one. That would likely turn me on. But they are definitely earthy. I had the Valsipiatta last night and that was very earthy.
One I forgot to mention was the Salcheto. That’s usually very good too. And John, I agree on the Cerro. I loved the 2004, but after that something went awry. They need Cotarella, so it’ll be interesting to watch.
Grande Annate always seems disingenuous to me. Very international and lavishly oaked. Haven’t had it in a long time.
I always hear people claiming that it’s “spoofilated” and too international. I see the possibility of spoofiliation (but am not convinced), but I don’t really get the oak (or the international aspect, aside from being very fruity). I certainly don’t get oak flavors on this wine. To me the best “criticism” of the wine lies in its intense, over-the-top floral character (think potpourri + grandma’s perfume) and intense jammy red fruity flavors (raspberry, cherry) that give an almost sickly sweet impression, which is quickly undercut by extremely drying tannin–so no real “typicity” here, but such a unique and intense expression (assuming this is some kind of clonal or terroir showing), that I can’t help but admire the wine. (If I were told by someone with knowledge that the wine’s uniqueness comes from some specific winemaking trick, I would change my mind…I have ZERO familiarity with how the wine is made, but I’ve been a fan since the '99 vintage…I think the '07 is the current release).
John, just out of curiosity, who compares Vino Nobile to Brunello? Kind of like Macon comparing itself to Puligny, no?
I mean, I could see local producers trying to do it just from a marketing/sales standpoint, but I can’t honestly recall a wine writer ever making that comparison.
I was referring to the local producers. I’ve always seen them say it, due to the proximity of the two towns, that they feel like the “red headed step child” compared to Brunello and they don’t think it’s fair. They are always making the comparison and I’ve yet to have a VndM that I thought was better than an equivalent Brunello. But I agree, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a writer agree with them. I have seen writers report on the producers feelings but not really agree.
It seems obvious that they would WANT to compare themselves to Brunello, and WANT to “not understand” why their wines aren’t as widely praised and renowned as Brunelo…But beyond the fact that it’s Sangiovese, there’s otherwise not much similarity.
I have been a long time lurker on this site and besides taking advantage of BerserkerDay, have never really engaged…
That said, I just returned from Tuscany and although my experience and palate are far less experienced than most on this board, I think the Vino Nobile’s I tasted in Montepulciano were superb. Perhaps not as grand as the better Brunellos but certainly well made wine, often complex wines.
It seems to represent much better value that what one finds in Brunello as well.
I have really enjoyed the 2006 Redi Briareo Riserva.
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