I am new to the Brunello world–have tried a couple of 2004s which I have enjoyed, but hear the 2006s are outstanding. From those that have much more experience in these wines than I, who are some of the best producers to look for?
TIA!
I am new to the Brunello world–have tried a couple of 2004s which I have enjoyed, but hear the 2006s are outstanding. From those that have much more experience in these wines than I, who are some of the best producers to look for?
TIA!
The best traditional producers are Soldera and Biondi Santi; Il Poggione is another good option if you don’t want to break the bank. Casanova di Neri leads the modernist guard IMO. In the middle I’d say Ciacci Piccolomini and Valdicava. Remember that many of the best Sangiovese producers aren’t in Brunello–they’re Chiantis or IGTs (e.g. the Fontodi wines, Felsina, Le Pergole Torte, Cepparello, Monsanto etc.)
Salvioni, Cerbaiona and Stella Campalto are serious contenders.
If you really care to learn about it, then it’s imperative that you learn the difference between the Old School and the New School approaches to Brunello.
Old School is all about exquisite mouthfeel and intoxicating aromatics.
New School is all about OAK OAK OAK and purple/black fruit.
I actually kinda like some of the New School producers - e.g. for what it is, Madonna del Piano is a lot of fun [even if “what it is” amounts to little more than a chocolate milkshake spiked with alcohol].
Also, I find that it can take a while [nowadays] for someone to appreciate what the Old School is trying to achieve with their approach to Montalcino Sangiovese - a relaxed, delicate, gentle, Old School Brunello can often seem to be little more than brown-colored water, and that style certainly didn’t get much in the way of points from the major publications over the course of the last several decades.
In fact, I have often thought that Professor Beltrami lost his [very brief] gig at the IWC because of a subscriber backlash over his preference for Old School Brunelli when he reviewed the 1997 vintage - and that was back when the IWC had the reputation of being the geekiest of the major publications.
Meaning that if even Stephen Tanzer couldn’t summon the gumption to defend the Old School approach, then you gotta figure that the deck is stacked against it.
Hmmm… well, to each his own, but I would say that Beltrami lost the gig for giving outrageously high scores to what has turned out to be nothing more than a middle-of-the-road vintage.
I do think that Nathan has a good point about coming to grips with the modernist vs. traditionalist approach to winemaking, though. I think stylistically this is every bit as heated an argument in Tuscany as it is in Piemonte, although I think that many of the winemakers in Piemonte are at least starting to rein in some of the more severe tendencies in terms of new oak, etc.
FWIW, the nicest “on release” Brunello I tried from the '06 vintage was the Conti Costanti - very much on the “red-fruited” side of the spectrum. I also think (and I guess Nathan might disagree) that Tanzer does a pretty good job when it comes to reviewing Brunello. I may be wrong about this, but through the years of my IWC subscription, Brunello does seem to be an area Steve genuinely enjoys tasting.
Exactly - you have the same problem with Langhe Nebbiolo as with Montalcino Sangiovese - and it often seems to take a long time for folks to get to the point where they are capable of appreciating what the Old School is trying to achieve.
[And, again, for the record - if you’re a wine drinker who prefers New School wines, then, by all means, drink New School - I’m very much in favor of folks drinking whatever the heck they enjoy drinking.]
ouch. Despite your first statement that seems a bit harsh, but you have to call it like you see it. I’ve only had one example (a 2001 about a year ago), but I thought it was outstanding. I did taste it blind and peg it as Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon, though. I’m not a very good blind taster, but I do think the wine was so black fruit dominated that there was little there to tell me it was Sangiovese despite its obvious Tuscan profile. I’ve been wrong about such things before, so take that with a grain of salt, but I do think in general that the modern style takes something away from what I generally associate with Sangiovese and specifically Brunello. That’s not necessarily bad if the wine is good in my opinion.
A wine that’s so overwrought that one can’t tell the grape it’s made from and confuses Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese is OK? Sigh…
I had the '04 Stella di Campalto BdM and found it tight as…various unprintabilities. I know this is an up and coming producer that gets a lot of love. But do people think these wines are ready to pop, or are they merely impressed with the potential?
Brunello di Montalcino is famous for what it is like at 10-15-40 years from the vintage. If you want to kill babies, buy Chianti Classico.
I don’t drink alot of Brunello, but I was recently introduced to Poggio di Sotto, and have tasted a number of younger vintages including the 01, 04 and 06. I thought they were really beautiful wines, elegant, balanced–in a word, “traditional”. No mention of them in this thread. Why?
David,
Nice thread developing on what is a very complex region with lots of moving parts over the last 10-15 years. I’d say too much emphasis is being placed by some on lumping producers into “categories” (new world, old world, blah, blah, blah….) which in my book is a one dimensional approach to getting familiar with this complex appellation which has numerous micro climates & soil types, each of which produce differing expressions of Sangiovese Grosso, along with varied producer styles. It also dumbs downs the discussion by attempting to over simplify what in reality is far more complicated topic than first meets the eye.
I suggest tasting as many producers as you can and let the wine in the glass to speak for itself. Truth is, there are producers in all style ranges crafting gorgeous wines, so the challenge at hand should be finding that ones that suit your palate, since at the end of the day that’s all that really matters.
On the lumping producers into style categories, you will find that a number craft Brunello in different styles. Casanova di Neri, for example, makes three differently styled Brunelli: Brunello Etichetta Bianca (aged 42 months in traditional cask, followed by 6 months in bottle), Tenuta Nuova (aged 30 mo in cask followed by 18 mo in bottle) and Cerretalto (27 months in barrique followed by 30 mo in bottle). Does this make them a more traditionally styled producer, or more modern? Does it make them even marginally one over the other?
The biggest issue today is Montalcino is the sheer number of vineyard sites that are popping up on less than ideal soils and exposures and knowing just how fickle Sangiovese is, the results are muddying Brunello, as a “brand”. And while it’s easy to place great reliance on the tried and proven producers, there are a number of young superstars on the horizon that are absolutely killing-it with sensational quality juice. The producer Roberto mentioned earlier – Stella di Campalto – comes to mind.
In addition to the great producers already mentioned, I might suggest keeping an eye out for Col d’Orcias’ incredible Poggio al Vento Riserva (one of the finest in the appellation), along with producers like Pian dell’Orino, Siro Pacenti, Uccelliera & Fuglini. And at lower price points there are a number of excellent producers to try that can get you QPRs if that’s what you’re looking for as opposed to trophy producers like Soldera, Biondi Santi, etc. If there’s one thing Brunello is today, it’s a very competitive appellation for all but the very top producers.
BTW, Valdicava, the producer of Madonna del Piano along with Brunello Valdicava, uses very traditional vinification and elevage methods, but for reasons primarily related to concentration (think very low yields) is routinely (and IMO mistakenly) lumped into the modernist category.
Roberto, an important point you make about aged Brunello, which for me is all about the charm and grace that Sangiovese Grosso can only express with age. Not to say that drinking young Brunello isn’t satisfying, but the subtle spicy charisma that emerges after 10-20 years (in an ageworthy vintage) is really magical stuff. And as for Chianti, especially the bona fide Riservas, well, I tend to age them too.
My favorites from our cellar and our last time in Montalcino, in no particular order: Canalicchio di Sopra, Sesta di Sopra, Lisini, Poggio di Sotto, and Mastrojanni.
Andrew
I had a 1990 Poggio al Vento that was merely good. But, no great wines…
Any love here for Barbi? I used to love their wines but haven’t had one in too long. Altesino? Caparzo? Loved those two as well but again, haven’t tasted anything recent.
Thank you all for some incredible answers!!
To the old school/new school point–are any of these known as more in the old school camp in terms of 2006 vintage?
Loving this thread and hoping for some more recommendations.
If you want old school, try Pietroso. Tuscan dust on a stick!
Disclaimer: we and many other fine retailers and restaurants offer this wine.
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Dan, for my palate the large majority of '99s remain on the young side, but I do think some are getting close. Had a '97 Poggio San Polo last night that was really delicious and very much in its peak drinking window, albeit the young side of that window.