Goddamn, this goes easy down the old gullet.
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This comment made me open one tonight. In the last year of tasting with my Riesling group I have generally not found much pleasure in the Austrian offerings. But I remembered being wowed by the 2019 Steinmetz Grosser Hengelberg, so it seemed like an opportune time to revisit. This is a big wine (13.5% ABV!) but yes, it is oh so drinkable… and tasting this I could see some resemblance to the bigger Austrians that have lately crossed my palate. I cannot quite nail it, but there is a certain flavor that reminds me of sesame I detect in many Austrian wines, that, well, doesn’t work for me. I noticed it in this wine, but it is less overt and to me more complimentary. Yeah, good. Really good. I like how my note from 2022 puts it:
- 2019 Weingut Günther Steinmetz Dhroner Grosser Hengelberg Riesling Monopollage - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (1/30/2022)
First off, at 13.5 abv, this wine is a bruiser. But you don't care, as the Grosser Hengelberg seems to incorporate the finest qualities of a big, dry Rheinhessen wine with the perfumed, slate sweetness of the Mosel. And this isn't even the Reserve edition. Excellent to Outstanding. (93 points)
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WHAT
2003 is such a hot vintage.
Yup. Left me kind of amused. It was not at all a wine where acid was notable.
I will open tonight a 2010 HH Spätlese by Dönnhoff, there will be acid for shure.
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No doubt.
FWIW, I did not think the 2003 Schaefer Auslese was flabby, but it was not at all bright.
Sesame is not a descriptor that has ever come to mind! Interesting.
My first thought was halva, which I don’t particularly care for.
From the era when bigger was better, this was really more like a gold capsule Spätlese, but since we were having a reasonably spicy Thai curry it worked very well. Good acidity and still very young.
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Indeed it is!
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Not sure what I was expecting, but was pleasantly surprised. Nicely balanced with a nice backbone of acidity. Mouthfeel and finish also quite nice. Sweetness did not feel much more than most kabinett I’ve been drinking lately. I believe the alcohol was around 8-8.5%. Another bottle king purchase so grabbed a few more.
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Mosel Magic
2009 Willi Schaefer „Graacher Domprobst“ Spätlese #10
This Spätlese is adorable „bezaubernd“ from start to finish. Of course due to 2009 you have a dense&rich fruit, but it is not even slightly fat. Instead it is elegant, light at its feet „leichtfüßig“, balanced and with finesse. Flavors of peach, honey, white flowers and with a silky texture. And what a drinking pleasure!
Great match with a „Beef Rendang“
93/100
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Max Kilburg Goldtropfchen Kabinett 2021
Ain’t no secret ‘round these parts that Max Kilburg is a star in the making and this kabi is no exception. Great vineyard, great vintage, great winemaker…can you believe this wine is great?
A little timid on the nose but showing yellow fruits like peach and yellow apple, lemon, the tiniest tinge of petrol and what I can only describe as a sparkle that seems to be a calling card of great Mosel wines
On the palate I am drinking the sparkle. Fireworks of ripe citrus and unripe peach, pink lady apples and Anjou pear. medium plus acid and medium length. Herbal notes of lemon thyme and mint. It’s lithe and ethereal and all those superlatives that makes the Mosel the Mosel. I love this wine. 
(we need a white wine emoji)
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2017 Massolino Langhe Riesling - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (6/3/2025)
– cracked and poured –
– tasted non-blind over 2.25 hrs. on Day 1; revisited on Day 2 –
NOSE: medium-light petrol; tangy; kumquat; flinty; medium+ expressiveness.
BODY: medium orange-yellow color; medium-light bodied.
TASTE: very dry; medium-light to medium petrol note; more minerals than fruit — quinine and lemon; a touch “green,” in a Gruner kind of way. I like this, but it may be a touch overpriced at $44. Paired very well with lemony shrimp and white beans. 12.5% abv. not noticeable. The more I drink it, the more I like it. Light melon flavor. Over the course of the first two hours I eventually got to a place of being very impressed by this wine, and ultimately decided that I would rebuy at its current price (this was a recent purchase, from earlier this year). Best to not drink this too cold (it was at its best around a room temp. in the mid 60s). This doesn’t come across as being strongly held-together – or “bound” – but rather just well-balanced. High acidity helps. This really seemed to come together after about one hour open – I think the air and warmer drinking temp. helped. I do enjoy how this drinks now, and would recommend a short decant if opening now — it’s possible this has not yet entered its prime window yet. DAY 2: immediately from the fridge: lots of mineral and a fat subdued fruit presence — Gruner-like when cold. Lemony-lime-mineral-buzzy presentation — totally delightful! Gut impression score: 92 - 93.
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Inspired me to pull a Kabi.
It’s humming with plenty of time left ahead. Just popping out of the glass. Not really a featherweight but no complaints here. It’s delicious.
This was the first I remember F Haag using screwcap on the kabi although I could be off a few years.
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Well said. Cheers, Tony!
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2023 Goodfellow Whistling Ridge Riesling, delicious in a pork braise and also on its own
A hint of apple and a whisper of lime on the finish
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Went to NYC for 24th bday, theme was Finger Lakes Riesling.
Had to get my hands on Apollo’s Praise The Knoll and Flatiron Wine only carry the inaugural 2023 vintage. Not as good as 2024 according to the staff but regardless an eye opening experience. Opened at my friend’s housewarming with a panoramic view of Midtown. Perfect for a hot NYC Friday.
Nose: grapefruit, citrus, some petrol. Intense nose, almost overpowering with the grapefruit and citrus rush. Great fruit concentration despite a challenging vintage.
Taste: medium body, medium plus to low high acidity, not really searing acid but it’s like sparks on your tongue. Finger limes, granny smith apples, yellow pomelo, steely, intense minerality, super long finish.
Next day I went to Astoria for some seafood and accompanying were Nathan K Black Label Tuller Vineyard, my friend was supposed to bring Ravines Argetsinger but the wine shop gave him the normal bottling instead hence no notes for the Ravines but I’d say it gave me an impression of cotton candy grapes.
Nose: Citrus, lime, some grapefruit, some sea spray and petrol-ish. Quite perfumey and beautiful yet elegant nose.
Taste: medium body, high acidity, INTENSE MINERALITY, lemon pith, underripe pear, apple skin, lifted and fresh long finish. Delicious, pairing this with garlic butter clams, grilled calamari, scallops and grilled red snapper. The intense umami of the seafood and the crazy acidity kept the mineral-umami sensation going for minutes. Absolutely fantastic pairing.
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