04 currently trading around $220, so demand and pricing are certainly increasing and will probably continue to do so with the next few vintage releases.
Double posted here and on Wine Talk with complete photos:
For the past few weeks, my wine consumption has been greatly reduced culminated by a 2 week vacation in NW Michigan where it was even easier to abstain while living in the peaceful and tranquil setting among beautiful lakes, streams and forests. Once I returned, I checked the calendar and discovered there was a special champagne luncheon I’d previously signed up for and I knew then I’d be back involved in a more serious way at least for this one occasion which promised to be extra stellar.
Ian Adamo, of Somm`s Kitchen in Paso Robles, has been featuring some extraordinary events over the past couple of years and this one was as good as any. it included 14 of some of the best champagnes that have graced the planet since 1990 and were poured during a 5 course luncheon attended by 14 people. Here’s some tasting notes:
NV BILLECART-SALMON BRUT NATURE- zero dosage; made of 30% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée de la Marne, 30% Chardonnay sourced from the top Crus in the Champagne region and 40% Pinot Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne and the southern slopes of Epernay; it is vinified in stainless steel tanks, uses 50% to 60% reserve wines and aged 48 months on its lees; sporting fine acidity and fresh, ripe mineral laced citrus fruit, this prepared us perfectly with well cleansed palates.
2006 TAITTINGER COMTES de CHAMPAGNE BLANC de BLANC- a friend who I rode with brought this gem to share and it shined as literally a hundred or so other bottles have done before it with similar notes to more recent evolving bottles; it seems to be just getting better when I thought that maybe it can’t get any better than stellar; it showcased its significant bright acidity, lovely aromas of toasty brioche and spicy citrus fruit followed by a preponderance of fresh lemon zest and orchard fruit on the palate plus a creamy, feel good mousse and ideal balance; another bottle of this stupendous wine.
2002 SALON LES MESNIL BLANC de BLANC- my eyes lit up when I saw the next 2 bottles appearing and they even got bigger and brighter after a few sips of this marvelous bubbly; it had seamless balance noticed throughout each revered sip; the flavor profile was loaded and giving of slightly toasted citrus fruit; the texture was soft and smooth adding more elegance and the layered depth enhanced the entire experience; truly amazing bubbly. This was eventually my WOTD after repeated comparisons.
2007 SALON LES MESNIL BLANC de BLANC- following the 02, this had a lot to live up to and it almost pulled it off; in fact, I kept going back to be sure I was getting as much as it seemed I experienced as I had a hard time believing it could be anywhere close to the stellar 02; it was super rich, super soft and easy and but did not have quite the depth and complexity, although it was really good and just needs some time to evolve and mature. Here’s another example of a 2007 showing way beyond the vintage hype.
2002 DOM PERIGNON- I realized I’ve not had many of this vintage and so it was a real treat to see how it is holding up against so many other wondrous champagnes from this vintage; it was stupendous; it showcased a bounty of spicy and honeyed citrus fruit, absent the almond, nutty notes I usually find in mature DPs; that was not a problem in that it had so many other redeeming qualities to make up for it; it kept unfolding and giving up new treasures with each sip with hallmarks of richness and balance adding to the taste treat and texture. A great Dom. Maybe my #2 WOTD.
1996 DOM PERIGNON- I was sort of surprised to see this treasure come up, but what better to compare the 2002 with and maybe get a read on where it will arrive with more time; this 96 was one of the best ever bottles I’ve had including 2- 6 packs I bought way back when; this bottle was just fantastic; showing perfect balance, it was exciting from the nose through the tail with mature, spice laden lemon lime delivered in an oily, creamy like medium that carried all of the goodness while gaining momentum past mid palate; how can I judge this to be anything other that the WOTD? Well, it would be more out of respect and reverence as this has to be the best ever 96 DP I’ve had
2009 POL ROGER SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL- this was poured separately and rightfully so as it turned out, as it displayed a much different profile than most all of the others on the day with its white pepper and all-spice laden stone fruit notes; it was full boded with a bit of weight and as such, had a lovely mouthfeel; although I’ve not had all that many SWCs, I’ve loved everyone and find them to be more approachable early on and with the structure and wherewithal to stay the course for many a decade. This bottle seemed to support that contention.
1990 KRUG- and the gems just keep on coming; this was one of the best 90 Krugs I’ve ever had which seems to be my more frequently stated remark for the day for just about every bottle; it was a bit too chilled and therefore a little less expressive, but when it warmed up, the flavors just kept on unfolding, albeit with grace and charm; once again, as with most of the other more mature bottles, this had beautiful balance, holding a steady course throughout; honeyed lemon, apple and orange flavors stood out with a touch of creme brûlée coming in past mid palate; it was creamy and rich, crisp and full bodied with an impressive finish that sealed the deal and I regretted n to saving more. Maybe, another #2 WOTD. Maybe #1.
1990 DOM PERIGNON- and here’s another one of the best ever to add to the list; in fact, my last one was opened to celebrate my Kansas Jayhawks winning the National Championship this last April and it was almost in as perfect a condition as this one; again the operative descriptor is balance with everything being in its righteously appropriate place; following its medium yellow color came wondrous aromas redolent of ripe citrus fruit that continued on to be joined by a streak of spice and a dollop of brioche; it had a luscious mouthfeel and just reeked of elegance and sophistication. I`m giving up on how many WOTD I can have.
1990 POL ROGER SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL- this showed very different from the others with perhaps just a hint of oxidative notes evidenced by its musty, dusty butterscotch and nutty aromas; it offered some decent notes once tasted that included mint accented citrus, peach and apple while being served in an oily medium which enhanced the finish where it all came together.
2012 EGLY-OURIET GRAND CRU MILLESIME- I was surprised and happy to see these next 2 bottles which came from one of my very favorite small growers; this bottle was ready to give and be appreciated and earn its place in this lineup among giants; possessing youthful power and energy, it handled the challenge beautifully by also generously giving nice buttered apple, lemon and lime fruit with a touch of chalk and minerals in the background; this sported bright acidity, had an aura of class and dignity and was nicely positioned in the total lineup.
NV EGLY-OURIET BLANC de NOIRS VIELLES VIGNES LES CRAYERES GRAND CRU- this is a 100 % Pinot Noir blend from both 2014 and 2015, comes from 70+ year old vines, aged 51 months on its lees and dosed at 1 gpl; in a word, it is delicious; it featured spicy, ginger laced apple, red cherry/berry and red plum with a touch of brioche while being delivered in a creamy smooth texture which added to its complexity, length and overall allure.
And then Ian pulls out 2 bottles that were in clear, unlabeled glass, one was blood red and the other a faded light pink and I’m wondering what more can he do and the answer was a startling “A Lot”:
2008 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL ROSE- I was shocked to learn the blood red, saignee made rose was that of Cristal especially after Ian mentioned the other one came from Jacques Selosse and I had already wrongly identified it as being the saignee; it is comprised of 56% Pinot noir and 44% Chardonnay, 20% of which is matured in oak tuns; nonetheless, this was nicely accented with ginger, blood orange, red cherry, red grapefruit and tangerine with a streak of minerals running through it all the way to the back end; it was the lasting impression of minerality that stood out at the finish; this needs time to evolve and come together and most certainly, will be cherished and revered by most of us Cristal lovers.
NV JACQUES SELOSSE BRUT ROSE- disgorged 1/3/18; light pink salmon in color, this is the rose that Cristal should have made as it gave wondrous fresh floral aromas including rose petals and then on the palate, some nice clove accented strawberry showed up along with a hit of saline and minerals; it was medium to full bodied, nicely balanced and just reeked of grace and charm. As an aside and begs the question “ did Ian know this going in to today’s choices to be poured?”, the Pinot Noir used in this comes from Francis Egly.
Well, here’s another fantastic luncheon with a rare, perhaps once in a lifetime opportunity to sample some of the all time GOAT in one sitting. My “fast” has been righteously broken.
Cheers,
Blake
L-R: Steve Werndorf, me, Tom Heath and Ian Adamo
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I still see the ‘06 at ~$150, but it looks like that isn’t nearly as well regarded.
Anyone had Hebrart’s Rive Gauche, Rive Droit bottling? Limited feedback on CT. Local shop has 14 and 15 for pre order. My impression is 14 is the better champagne vintage, but would love to hear from anyone who’s tasted either
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I loved the 2013 version, so much so that I bought more and also got some '15, though I haven’t opened any yet. Sorry, that’s not exactly what you want to know, but I wouldn’t hesitate to buy either vintage.
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I bought and drank the 13 on a flyer and it knocked my socks off. I thought it was excellent and would absolutely buy the 14 and 15. Great producer with a deft touch. I would buy with confidence.
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2008 Philipponnat 1522. Cellartracker says I have several more, but I think this was my last, as my cellar searching skills are marginally better than my inventory logging skills.
Like many ‘08s, this wine needed a long time to reach a nice drinking window. I’d say this bottle was in an early stage of maturity, much better than those I opened a couple of years ago. I suspect the ‘08 Clos des Goisses will need a decade or two to reach a nice window, as those seem tighter than the 1522’s.
Cheers,
Warren
Does anyone have experience with Maurice Grumier? WineAccess has four different bottlings for sale, from NVs to vintage single vineyard offerings. I don’t see much about them on Cellartracker on figure there is more expertise here. Anything worth trying from the lineup?
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I’m just like you. I forget to log wines I drink. And usually once a year I end up doing a full inventory again and swear I will record everything going forward. Never do.
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I’m glad I’m not the only one…
Cheers,
Warren
Here is a pass at the stuff from the past few weeks. The LF Nature de Craie continues to drink excellent.
GROWER BUBBLY EVENT #2 - (9/25/2022)
[list][]2014 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Special Club Grands Terroirs de Chardonnay - France, Champagne
September 2020 disgorgement with 4 grams of dosage. 100% Chard from across the northern end of the CdB. This showed pretty similar to the bottle from 2021, which had a slightly earlier disgorgement. Lemon, apple, pear and some grapefruit that was precise with an energy from the citrus. Flavor packed and fruit driven. Retasted the following day when I notice more of a savory element, along with a similar fruit profile from yesterday. Very good.
[]NV Laherte Frères Champagne Nature De Craie Premier Cru Brut Nature - France, Champagne
This bottle was from a reload we did this month, during an abnormally cool shipping window in late summer. So we grabbed the final three bottles from Nor Cal and shipped them down. Damn, this is a really good wine, as good as the past 2 bottles I have had this year. May 2021 disgorgement of 100% Chard from the southern CdB, no dosage. Tangerine, pear, and a lovely honeyed texture with refreshing minerality and anise. Just comes across as complete to me. Retasted the following day and I notice lemon peel and something I don’t often find in Champagne (although I did in a 2013 Marie Courtin Resonance this year)…white chocolate. it just kind of hit me, resonating that flavor. This remains a bitchen wine, one I will keep buying when I find it.
[]NV Champagne Suenen Champagne Grand Cru C + C Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
This was from a reload we found in Oregon. These wines are getting more expensive but these were $70 US each, no tax. Hard to say no to that. 2018 base, 4 grams of dosage and I just can’t read the disgorge info. Yesterday this seems broad in texture, with a juicy lemon, along with ginger. It seemed more round with depth, reminding me of Larmandier-Bernier Latitude. Retasted the next day, still with CO2 and it’s drinking now more lively, I wrote down brisk and delineated. There is a distinct freshness to this cuvee, and it affirms for me that the bottle earlier this year was not a fluke or a one-off good experience–this is an excellent wine as village blend and one I will keep buying.
[]NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 743 - France, Champagne
First bottle of the 743. Disgorged November 2019, 2015 base and while I didn’t write down the dosage, I think it was zero, that this cuvee, at least this time, it’s gone to zero. Some barrel toast on the nose. Solid concentration, with berry, pear toast and a minerality that drives it. Towards the end of the night, I retasted the wine again, and I still find the same aromatic–not sure if it is reduction or just the elevage paying a role in the aroma. This seems powerful and dense to me, and on this day, amongst the 10 or so grower bottles we had out, this was one of the best.
[]2016 Domaine Nowack Champagne La Tuilerie Extra Brut - France, Champagne
December 2020 disgorgement, with one gram of dosage from 100% Chardonnay I drank this alongside the Jacquesson 743 and it stood in well next to that wine. Bright and clean with nectarine and lemon, green apple and a touch of caramel, like a caramel chew candy. Finishes with a stoniness. Of all the wines we had out yesterday, this seemed to have one of the best nuances, many flavors and expression that was very unique and cool to me. And, the bottle yesterday was more expressive and nuanced than the bottle I had a few weeks ago, not as linear and crisp.
[]2016 Domaine Nowack Champagne Les Bauchets Extra Brut - France, Champagne
December 2020 disgorgement of 100% Pinot Noir, no dosage. First bottle of this from the purchase we did last month. This has a pastry/berry note, kind of like a pop-tart. Licorice, raspberry, richer and fleshy…sounds odd perhaps for brut nature but this is what I sensed. Even with a few hours open the wine maintains this profile. Very good.
[]2015 Marie Courtin Champagne Indulgence Extra Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
Third bottle since release. Didn’t get the disgorgement date. Damn, this is such a cool and interesting wine, one that makes me think. The color alone starts me thinking, a kind of rose/cranberry color in the glass. And the flavors? Sam cranberry, strawberry and cedar, light weighted with a juicy, vinous feel. When still, this could fool me as a Aube-based Pinot Noir, as it’s just so unique that it reminds me more of a bitchen still wine with great tension from some place other than the Aube. I’m really looking forward to my 2018s arriving this year.
[]2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Nature Cuvée Starck - France, Champagne
Second bottle this summer. Tasted over 2 days. This bottle shows a zesty, complex leesy quality, with plenty of flint, pear and green apple. Nothing short on flavor here and at 13 years old, plenty fresh and delicious. Probably time to go out and find some 2012 and 2015 to see how these show.
[*]2010 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Comtesse Marie de France Bouzy - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
I tasted this towards the end of the event. I didn’t get any of the bottle info as it went home with the owner. What I recalled was. marriage between some richness and yet some nice elegance in the wine.
[/list]
Posted from CellarTracker
[list][]2013 Benoit Dehu Champagne Cuvée La Rue des Noyers Extra Brut - France, Champagne (9/21/2022)
Been damn near 5 years since I opened one of these. Tonight’s bottle is the August 2016 disgorgement. 100% PM with no dosage. When I poured the first glass, yikes, I was worried: the color was pretty gold in the glass. But I don’t sense any oxidative quality in the wine. Actually, the wine has been open about 45 mins with this first glass and it’s revealing a good flavor profile. Yellow apple, mint, savory quality and then the finish, which at this point is a cleansing, very present minearlity that flushes through my palate. And, tangy presence that persists with the minerality, both creating quite a bit of length. I’ll try and spread the bottle over 3 nights and follow it to see how it evolves but from an opening night POV, this is rock solid and should not be judged by the color…As. follow-up, on the second day, the gold color here is very evident. I sent a photo of the wine to a friend and he thought it was apple juice. So, there you go. I like the wine better on the first night, as the bruised apple quality is evident on the 2nd day and yet there is enough minerality and acid to still provide some lift. In sum, I have 2 left and I will probably drink another this weekend and see if the same advanced nature is in the next bottle. If so, then the final bottle left I will drink before the end of the year.
[]2016 Marie Courtin Champagne Concordance Extra Brut - France, Champagne (9/18/2022)
I think this was the June 2021 disgorgement. And when I opened this, the first day the wine kind of concerned me. it had a deeper color of some gold hue, and it had a bit of a nutty profile and some bruised apple. Uh oh. I thought this may be advanced, and given the sans soufre nature of the wine, it’s possible for the wine to speed up the aging curve. On Day 2, we finished the wine and it had really seemed to clean up. The energy was way better, the nutty note while still there is enhanced by plenty of acidity, tangier. My thought is that this vintage of Concordance is in a good place, and I may pick up a few more of these to be consumed over the next couple years.
[*]2018 Marie Courtin Champagne Resonance Extra Brut - France, Champagne (9/15/2022)
This is my final bottle of the trio of 2018 that I bought, and it’s the June 2021 disgorgement. I opened this on Tuesday, with today being Thursday so it’s had plenty of time to enjoy some ox (under stopper to maintain the bubbles). I tend to see Resonance as an earlier drinker, and my heart is usually with Efflorescence or Concordance because I never seem to age this cuvee, although I have some single bottles of Resonance now going back to 2013, and of note that vintage is aging very well based on the bottle Dominique Moreau shared with me during my May visit to see her this year. So, I do believe the cuvee will age, and based on this 2018, I’ll go out and source another bottle to keep the vertical going. This cuvee is done in stainless, which consistently yields of wine of clean power and edginess. There is a leesy, tangly apple, minerality that distinguishes this vintage when cool. With more air and the temp on the wine warming, the texture widens and adds grapefruit note. A little more air, then a salty, black cherry gets added to the profile, and even the aromatic shows some citrus blossom/white flower. As I consistently find with zero dosage wines, and for certain with Dominque’s wines, please let the chill drop away from the wine before you enjoy it. Let the wine unwrap, present the texture and flavors that are authentically here. Delicious, especially once a lot of the bubbles are gone and the wine is revealed still.[/list]
Posted from CellarTracker
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I tried the O ma Vallee Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut and the Solera (the latter is not available anymore). The Solera may have been heat damaged, since it arrived during a heat wave and the bottle temp was 89*. The BdN Extra Brut was disgorged in 2021 and was not showing well in June. I have another bottle of the BdN and will be holding onto it before opening because it seemed disjointed. In any case, I would hesitate to repurchase either of them.
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2002 Dom Perignon - Popped yesterday afternoon to celebrate the issuance, after 2 months of waiting following a 17 day trial that took place over 32 days, of a 49 page opinion in which the judge ruled in my favor on every factual and legal dispute. The nose is lovely, with sweet lemon and kiwi, with creme pat, spice and pie crust. If there is any nuttiness, it’s super duper faint and complimentary. The acid is lively, and the balance of citrus fruit, pastry dough, spice, and yeastiness is so spot on. This is a champagne of exceptional balance. Look, the P2 might be a better wine at the end of the line, with a dense ball of citrus energy, but this is just absolutely amazing right now. In a heavenly 96-97 pt range.
Sadly a 1996 Grande Dame that followed was oxidized. Color was too deep and amber tinged, nose was Aberlour Abunadh without the burn…immediate whiff of sherry cask, faded fruit. Big time bummer. What remained clear, even despite the oxidation, was that 96 still has sharp acidity.
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Me and a couple buddies did a Duval-Leroy Tasting at WineHouse LA last night.
The store closed, and then two tables were pouring the following 5 wines. The CEO & Owner of the house also spoke about the history of the house, the different bottles that was being poured etc. Overall, very informative tasting, friendly people and good bubbles.
- NV Duval-Leroy Brut Reserve Champagne ($45) - Simple & good Brut Champagne. Mostly Chardonnay with some Pinot and Munier.
- NV Duval-Leroy Blanc de Blanc Champagne ($75) - 1er Cru fruit. Prob the best of the night. Crisp and delicious.
- NV Duval-Leroy Brut Rose Champagne ($75) - 1er Cru Fruit, with both Skin Contact & mixing in red wine. We did not like this one as much as the others.
- NV Duval-Leroy Brut Femme de Champagne ($150) - Grand Cru fruit, mostly 06 Vintage fruit. Crisp yet has some of that creaminess/fullness. Reminded me of Krug but for half the price.
- 2002 Duval-Leroy Brut Femme de Champagne ($325) - Grand Cru, this is their current release so 18+yrs on the lees? To us it was too creamy, and we all preferred the NV Femme de Champagne.
I always thought I leaned more towards Extra Brut & Brut Nature, but I enjoyed most of these especially the BdB & the NV TdC.
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zachy’s sale currently has some interesting options with deep discounts such as clouet 1911 ($62) and 2016 mousse special club ($75)
any other solid deals in this sale?
Can someone level set me on the best “pink” champagne vintages? I am far more a fan of pinot heavy sparklers based on flavor and visual. Heavy red extraction in my flutes gets me all randy.
I tend to associate great vintages for champagne with chardonnay, but with a string of very hot vintages, is there a decoupling or can i day 08, 12 , 13, 14 will be as good for roses as blancs?
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I love this bottling. 2012 and 2013 are gorgeous. I don’t think I’d hesitate on 2014, which I had hoped to try the other day at a Skurnik tasting before deciding whether to buy it, but it wasn’t offered. Hebrart’s 2014 Special Club has been wonderful the couple times I’ve tried it, slightly better even in my opinion than the 2013 although that’s just side-by-side nitpicking. In any case it suggests Hebrart did well in 2014, not to mention his NV wines have been strong through the whole range for many years now.
If you pulled the trigger already, I doubt you will be disappointed. Let us know!
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Jeaunaux Robin Instinct Meunier Brut Nature
Disgorged 10/2020. 3 years on lees. 100% PM from “le Grand Morceau”. Dosage: 0g/L
This estate is only 5.7 hectares in La Vallée du Petit Morin. Vines for this bottling are ~55 years of age.
Beautiful lighter yellow color, which made me look at the label twice to check that it was a BdN. Minuscule bead that is not particularly energetic. On the nose, green pear and a slight note of prosciutto. On the palate, there’s a strong minerality and a pronounced salinity. It initially had a somewhat meaty flavor, like the blood from a rare filet mignon, which then went lemon-herb (kind of like gremolata ). Super long mineral finish, which lingered over 30 minutes. I know this description sounds odd and perhaps even unappetizing, but the overall effect was mesmerizing. This is a wine that demands attention, and is my most savory champagne. Must pair with food. I would hesitate to repurchase only because no one in my friend group would enjoy this.
ETA: my husband got none of the meaty notes that I mentioned, though he said it “tasted almost vintage” and was “nice and not sour like most of your brut natures.”
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I accidentally liked your post while I was scrolling but that made me take a closer look. I found that picture aesthetically pleasing.
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