I’ve not had it yet. My favored wine shop gets a pretty decent spread of Laherte so I’ll put in a request to see if they can snag a bottle if available.
NV RUINART BRUT ROSE- this was our house rose for many years starting in the early 2000s and I bought a lot; not as much as a friend who I turned this on to who bought 75 6 packs; with 15 years of age on this bottle, it has evolved into an even more substantial wine and has reached a state of regality; it had super intense ripe red cherry aromas that were join and softened by by red raspberry on the palate along with a streak for spice that crescendoed all the way to the back end; it was rich and full bodied and yet had lots of finesse and loads of charm; simply marvelous.
We had Dungeness crab too in a shitaki risotto and paired it with a Laherte Ultramarine Extra Brut. At least with our dish, it called for some serious, cutting acidity to balance the food richness.
1 Tbsp Olive Oil
1 small shallot finely chopped
1 1/2 cups Arborio Rice
6 oz white wine
1 lb crab meat
4 1/2 - 5 cups crab stock
12 oz sliced and then roasted shitake (or sauteed)
1/4 cups Italian parsley
3/4 cup fresh shredded Parm.
To make the stock (this was the most time consuming, so you could substitute with fish or vegetable stock):
3 celery stalks sliced
1/2 medion onion diced
1 carrot diced
8 cups water
1 1/2 lbs crab shell
2 Tbsp tomto paste
Saute the veggies in the olive oil. Add the water and shells. Boil 10 minutes. Reduce heat and simmer 20+ minutes
Coat pan with olive oil. Saute shallot till translucent. Add rice and stir till coated and cook for three minutes. Add wine and stir till absorbed. Add 1/2 cup warm stock at a time as it absorbs. When all the stock is used, texture should be al dente. Fold in parsley and mushrooms. Add cheese (or use as topping). Fold in the crab. Salt and pepper to taste.
Currently on the tail-end of a family vacation at an island beach resort here (a members only resort called Balesin Beach Club). Even this resort, though sustained over the pandemic by members’ dues, has suffered a lot. I asked them how many bottles of Dom Pérignon they could scare up for me; and they could give me only 3 - one ‘06 & two ‘03s. A bit disappointing; but it is what it is.
For after dinner drinks a few nights ago with my sibling-in-laws & their respective spouses, at my villa.
With tonight’s Japanese dinner with my wife at the resort’s Japanese restaurant. I tried to press for more; but they swore this was the last bottle of DP left on the island.
2012 DELAMOTTE BLANC de BLANC LES MESNIL sur OGER- first, most people are not aware that this house has belonged to the Laurent Perrier group for over 30 years; many do know it is the younger sister of Salon and it is that connection that let me to purchase a lot of this release as it was initially reported that Salon would not be made in 2012 and the fruit would go into this bottling; that has since been refuted and Salon indeed has been made in 2012; the vines come from the Côte des Blancs terroir between Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger without forgetting Avize / Oger; not many champagne houses can boast of this wealth; after 30-36 months of aging on the lees, a slight dosage is added to the Champagne Delamotte brut; this bottle came from an initial purchase in 2019 and is showing some of the benefits of resting and evolving beyond although all have been exemplary; basically, it is now more rich and creamy, fuller bodied with more layers of complexity and length; some of the enticing notes include honeysuckle, lime and golden delicious apple that serve to back up the early on burst of lemon zest oil.
Blake, looks like our notes are pretty similar. Curious what you thought on the overall quality. It was certainly not Salon by any measure in my book, but was still a very nice wine for me. Not really exciting, though, just a good solid wine.
2012 Delamotte Blanc de Blanc A champagne bottled at 5g/l with about 7 years on lees. This is open and expressive with lovely white flowers, kiwi, jazz apple and tangy lemon curd. Good leesy note to keep things nicely in balance, with a hint of ginger on the back end. This is an interesting wine, both expressive and subtle, with very nice balance. I’d hoped for a home run and hit a nice solid double instead. It’s lovely, it is expressive, but it is not super complex and should not be mistaken for baby salon. Good though. 92-93
Over the past week I had a few bottles of wine with friends and family. I’ll give a quick bitch about 2009 Denis Bachelet Gev Cham VV and its distinct pyrazine note, which marred an otherwise solid bottle of pinot. I’ll give a quick bit of praise to 2001 Pride Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon which did an extraordinary job of being lush but not cloying, silky smooth but still bright, and soft, but with a hint of remaining structure. Just pure satisfaction for and everyone’s favorite. I’ll also give a quick holler for 2018 Domain Drouhin Oregon Laurene, which is a bit sappy but has such pretty red fruit and enough bright lift and pop of spice to just sing. 2 bottles at dinner and just really lovely stuff worth buying. But this is the champagne thread, so a couple of quick thoughts:
2009 Dom Perignon - I’ve found some enjoyment in 2009 champagnes and absolutely loved Cristal. I hoped that this would punch somewhere between 08 and 10, where it should given the vintages. What I found was an interesting Dom, but not a Dom among my favorites. This showed a richer fruit profile, with apple and a hint of something tropical, with classic cream and citrus curd. But there is a bitter note that I got throughout the night at the tail end of every sip. Like a bitter almond, or hint of old tea or something, which I thought marred the finish. This remains a clear step below 08 and 12 for me. If not for the soft but persistent bitter note, I would put this above 2010. I’m not so sure though, as it is. I’ll try another bottle in the future and will circle back.
Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru - 2016 base. I am usually a big fan of this wine. 70-30 pinot to chard, grand cru from mostly Ambonnay. Aged for 4 years on lees, vinified in oak though only like 10% new. The wine is full bodied, intense, rich, and complex with orchard fruit, big spice, and toast with solid acidity and a long finish. Very low dosage, but the fruit and body are wonderful. I’m a big fan. I have never had a bad bottle of this wine. Downside of dinner celebrations is that when the table wants to move to red after one celebratory glass of champagne, one must oblige. My wife and I grinned and moved on, wanting instead another bottle of the EO. Good stuff.
Tried a bottle of Laherte Frères Champagne Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut. Enjoyable without lighting me up, thus making me closer to William Kelley’s take rather than Antonio Galloni’s or Frank Murray’s. Good value, though.
NV Laherte Frères Champagne Rosé de Meunier Extra Brut- France, Champagne (2/22/2022)
My first go-around with this producer. Strawberry and other red berry fruit, citrus, and a strong component of yeast. I’m still trying to figure out if the red fruit profile is real or psychosomatic because of the red-ish color. The bubbles, so strong at the outset, faded pretty quickly, but the marked acid cut kept it vibrant and crisp. I don’t get the “fleshy” impression William Kelley noted, although I get decent depth. Certainly more complex and interesting than the similarly-priced Vilmart Rubis I had. Fun to drink for the quite reasonable price. January 2021 disgorgement.
Hey Chris, I appreciate that you tried this and that you kept some of my perspective alongside as you thought about the wine. I do like this one a lot and of course the color is one of the attractions for me but the way it tastes and how it just continues to impress me is what sticks with me. Thanks again for posting your note.
Hi, Warren. I’ve had their ‘06 several times before, and they were all nice enough. The ‘03 was ok as well (but not really a vintage I’d opt for given a choice). For casual beach drinking; I’m not really picky, and am pretty much fine with any decent bubbly.
I bought three of these by mistake, thinking the were the Crayeres. I overpaid by a wide margin, but it was from a friend’s shop, so I don’t mind supporting him. I’m glad to hear they’re good. I agree; I’ve never had an Egly-Ouriet I didn’t love.