Brilliant meal last night where every bottle we opened was showing at its absolute best.
1990 Pol Roger Champagne Blanc de Chardonnay: Smells of tart tatin and creme brulee. It is right in the zone with a full, creamy palate of bakery things and suggestions of peach and apple fruits. There’s a squeeze of lemon on the finish to keep everything fresh.
2004 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes: Very tight and backwards at first. It has some pure white peach notes and some minty cool things going on. As it breathes you get ripe, heady orchard fruits coming to the fore. There’s a dollop of almond butter and the palate is dense and sappy. It has terrific proportion and a finish that is laden with minerality.
1961 Auvenay Le Grand Bourgogne de Leroy: Hands down greatest Bourgogne I have ever had. I served it blind and Heidi and Colin went Grand Cru. It had an engaging scent of smoke, summer berries, black earth and flowers. It was fine and silky in the mouth with all elements in complete harmony. It had good depth and outstanding persistence.
1979 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino: A perfect amalgam of fruit and earthy things. There are tart berries and cherries and as it takes on air some sweet cassis at its heart. You get a bit of cedar and tar and plenty of freshly tilled soil. It is deeply pitched with sinewy muscle. There are engaging florals that show as it breathes. A wine of great strength and character.
1991 Marc Rougeot-Dupin Richebourg: I recall someone telling me that Hudelot-Noellat was the source for this. It is simply brilliant wine that is in that perfect place. Luscious black cherry fruits are tinged with aniseed. There’s a scent of violets and some earth. It is rich and concentrated with great depth and superb detail. It builds through the palate, fanning off on the finish and possessing outstanding length.