The last vintage I had of this wine was 2005, a tremendous vintage for Loire Cab Franc. That wine was deep, complex, and Bretty in the very distinctive band-aid sense, aided (abetted?) by the familiar cherry Ludens.
I hoped for something different, something more pure. I don’t mind some Brett, but I don’t buy it as enmeshed with terroir.
The 2010 is also Brett-afflicted, but this time in the sweaty horse saddle sense. It is even deeper and richer than the 2005, with scents of black pepper, olive, and black fruits. In the mouth it is layered with kalamata olive, leather, juicy blackberry, cranberry, and tar.
Oh, Chinon. Too bad the reputation is so often earned. And yet here I am, happily extinguishing the bottle.
I assume you mean, Chinon in general? The best versions, to me, are drenched with a sense of place and yet an impressive kind of depth that will please quite a few wine drinkers.
Drinking a 2009 Bourgueil right that has totally disappointed me, whereas the same estate’s “lower” bottling from the same vintage blew me away. Go figure . . . .
Same thing with 2005 joguet. Love that vintage and estate like crazy, but my “hit” rate with heavy brett on the franc de pied was about 3 out of every 4 bottles. Ugh. Poured out 3, 2005 Ruffaults one night, too.
Yes, I love Chinon but hate the Brett. I’ve had a run of really good 2010 Catherine and Pierre Breton Franc de Pied which were lovely and clean, just fabulous wine. Then a run of Phillipe Alliet 2009s, both the basic bottling and the Vieille Vignes, which were horribly marred by Brett and which I had to toss. I don’t mind a very little horsiness, but once the band-aid thing kicks in, I just can’t drink it.
I’d love to hear from others on which Loire Cabs tend to be bretty and which not – such info would help both those of us who want to avoid it, and those who seek it out. I’ve got some Baudry in the cellar which I’ve not yet touched and am keeping my fingers crossed.
Really useful info, thanks. I’m a relative Loire cab franc newbie, and this helps a lot. I shall look for the names you mention that I haven’t yet bought – Amirault and Couly Dutheil-- and pleasantly anticipate my already-purchased Baudry!
I love this stuff for the price, and drink a bunch of it year after year. I have yet to have one that had obvious Brett. Some funk and some herbal aromas, definitely, though not any obvious Brett.
Of course I could be just be missing it. This guy takes a dim view of the winemaking at Coulaine. But I’m happy to keep buying, faults and all.
I cannot help myself, Evan. When Joguet is on, it’s up there (way up there) with my favorite wines in the world. I have never had bretty issues with the Dioterie, and in years like 2005, it’s just a phenomenal bottle of wine. The 2009 smokes, too.
I have never had a brett issue with Baudry, my favorite producer. Breton can get quite horsey, though I still like them. For Raffault it’s more a feature than a bug – you have to like the style.
Disappointed to hear that about Breton – I have some Trinch! as well as some of their Perrieres in the cellar neither of which I have yet sampled. Looks like I will have to shift some of my purchases to Baudry and glad to hear you echo Evan’s perspective on his wine. Thanks for the info.
Trinch is a wine I’d drink young – I think you’re taking your chances cellaring it. The Perrieres is a beautiful, ageworthy wine, but they work without much sulphur and can get stinky.