1 bottle of 2009 Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin VV
Or
2 bottles of 2002 Clos de Lambrays?
I’m in a situation (don’t ask!) where I have to pick one of those two.
Any recommendations would be appreciated!
I vote for Fourrier
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+1.
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(Laughs)
This is an Iconic would you rather. Honestly, I believe so much in 2002 as a vintage that it would be hard not to take the 2 vs. 1 with Lambrays.
Plus, the insurance of two bites of Apple. 1 v 1, no argument. But 2 vs. 1 with 2002? Andrew lives faster than I do 
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@Nick_Christie gave good thoughts.
Have you tried either before, even if different vintages? They are pretty different. Do you like Fourrier’s style?
If you’ve never tried either and don’t have experience with Fourrier, this is tough.
On rep alone, to build your base of knowledge, and if you were bringing to a nice BYO dinner, I’d take the Fourrier.
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The 2002 Lambrays is mature and ready to drink. I have not had any 2009 Fourrier but most 2009s I have had are still young.
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Having had both wines, I would strongly reccomend the Fourrier; the 2009 is a particularly good rendition of the Griotte. The Lambrays is not a great wine; to quote a critic, until recent years the deal with Lambrays was you could buy something called a grand cru, for the price of a premier cru, that tasted like a village wine.
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I would take the Fourrier as well.
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Clos Lambrays fail to excite. Completely serviceable but no magic.
In my humble opinion.
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Do you know when Lambrays improved their wine (I’m assuming that is what you meant by “until recent years”)? I similarly thought Lambrays was pretty boring in the past, but I had a 2016 Lambrays last month and it was surprisingly good. It held its own against a 2007 Trapet Chambertin.
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Fourrier Griotte.
Maybe even if it were a 375 ;)!
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Vintage dependent for sure.
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Fourrier Griotte
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I’d opt for 2 bottles of the 02 Lambrays, I’ve had it recently and it’s a particularly good vintage for them (I also get that it was not considered a grand cru on release and my 6 pack was only $69 per bottle back in the day.
If you’re a fan of Alan Meadows and Neal Martin, they both also tasted the Lambrays recently.
Reviews:
Burghound (8/18/2024)
(Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru Red) The nose is still quite fresh despite the ample amount of secondary character suffusing the aromas of wild berries, game and a subtle note of smoke. There is fine volume and richness to the moderately intense middle weight flavors that offer a refined mouth feel along with plenty of minerality that adds a sense of lift to the lingering finish where the only nit is a touch of leanness. For my taste, this is probably at its peak because while there is still some supporting structure, this may start to dry out with too much age even in magnum format. In sum, 2002 is a very good but not great vintage for the Clos des Lambrays. (Drink starting 2024) 92 points
By Neal Martin
Vinous, Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019) (5/1/2019)
(Domaine Des Lambrays Clos Des Lambrays Grand Cru Red) The 2002 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a great success for retired winemaker Thierry Brouin. Redcurrants and cranberry on the nose, hints of allspice and tomato vine, all very well defined and conveying a sense of “coolness”. The palate is very well balanced, a little rustic but with good weight, gently building towards a discrete ferrous finish that feels long and tender. This Grand Cru could be up and down in this period…this was definitely one of their finest moments. Tasted at the 1243 Club in Beaune. (Drink between 2019-2035) 94 points
Burghound didn’t love the Fourrier recently:
Burghound (10/6/2023)
(Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) The nose of this particular example displayed strong reduction that even extended aeration did not completely dissipate, though it did help. On the plus side, the reduction did not extend to the palate of the nicely vibrant and textured middle weight flavors that flash evident minerality on the lingering, balanced and solidly complex finale. This is one of those wines where the nose is hard to like but the palate impression is lovely so my rating is a bit of a compromise. (Drink starting 2023) 91? points
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Tanner was also very high on the 02, so you have 3 critics with solid burgundy chops to lean on:
By Stephen Tanzer
Vinous , Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019) (4/1/2019)
(Domaine Des Lambrays Clos Des Lambrays Grand Cru Red) Good medium red; not particularly saturated but with a healthy rim. Alluringly scented, wild-yet-somehow-refined aromas of musky raspberry, strawberry, rose petal, brown spices, cedar, underbrush and coffee; this smells sweet! Silky, stylish and weightless, showing lovely stemmy definition and lift to its flavors of wild red berries, mocha and dried flowers. Not a particularly dense or fleshy style but an alluring, vibrant drink that’s perfect right now. In fact, in spite of its intense fruit component this wine may only thin out from here. This subtle, elegant Clos des Lambrays finishes with a firm dusting of tannins and a light touch. (13.7% alcohol; 3.59 pH; 3.5 g/l acidity) (Drink between 2019-2029) 93 points
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I’d go with the Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin. It’s just such a rare and special bottle — amazing producer, tiny production, and 2009 is drinking really well right now. I’d rather have one truly memorable bottle than two that are great but not quite on the same level.
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Without arguing with the critics (they taste what they taste), I’ve had the 2009 Griotte multiple times in the last few years and I suspect the Burghound note may well be on an off-bottle; I’ve not had reduction issues with Fourrier’s 2009s.
Burghound gave the Lambrays 92 points; for a grand cru in a splendid vintage drinking at peak, that rather indicates the limited upside of the wine.
Part of the question is what style one prefers - the pre-2015 or so Lambrays was somewhat simple and rustic, while Fourrier will certianly be on the less rustic side (one could call if “flashy”).
My opinion is not universal on this, and some will argue the change occurred in the late 90s. Having had the 2001, 2002, 2007 and 2009 (some of them several times), I don’t really agree. For me the improvement comes with the change in ownership in the middle part of the last decade. I’m a buyer of the current vintages.
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Exactly what Howard states.
CdLambrays 02 is drinking fine now, had it in Jan.
Griottes/Fourrier is a decade too young …
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Paul,
Are you basing that off tasting the Fourrier Griotte or a supposition about the vintage?
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I had a 2009/2010 tasting last Dec. incl. Fourrier Combe aux Moines, Clos St.Jacques and Gruenchers (no Griottes), and most 2009s were too primary, sometimes even more so than 2010s.
So I’d take 2002 over 2009 any time - and Lambrays 2002 (and 2001) are fine now.
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