After taking some serious pummelings trying to learn to surf in Hawaii, and again in Costa Rica, surfing taught me I’m better off sitting on the beach drinking wine and watching people surf.
Nice post…makes me miss my OB days. Of course, every day I visit Beserkerland I miss my NorCal days even more. Life in Ithaca isn’t so bad…life in Ithaca isn’t so bad…life in Ithaca isn’t so bad.
Since this was originally posted in August, I figured that I’d bump it for anyone who didn’t catch it because they were vacationing, at that time – perhaps, even surfing!
Cool post Matt. Born and raised in So Cal. Learned to surf at Zuma in mid 70s. Maybe one of the worst, most difficult sections of PCH to surf. The sets just pummel you and the rip tides develop quick. I spent the next 25 yrs on dawn patrol. By the early 90s, I stopped surfing. Just too much agro and kooks. I miss it. Now, I play surf music.
Had great times at County line surfing while at the Dead played Ventura Co Fairgrounds in the mid 80s.