What surfing taught me about wine, and vice versa

‘No wetsuit’ here is 70 degrees. ‘No wetsuit’ there is 65 degrees, where here I’d be in a 4/3 and booties.

So I guess we wouldn’t see you in the lineup in New Hampshire mid January :wink:

be wary of pop-outs, get a handshaped, clark foam, glassed stick even if it’s got a good decal and sold thru your local shop.

duck dive when the heavies roll in. don’t think you need to catch every offering no matter how tempting.

don’t be a wave hog and leave some for the grommets, newbies and tourists.

new? go with the natives, nothing beats local knowledge

wax is better than thrash pads

keep a sense of humour, you’ll need it when you go over the falls, get cut off, hammered by the heavies and someone drags your ratty ass off the reef.

it’s mostly paddling, lots of paddling,

the righteous stuff needs no narrative, you had to be there.

After taking some serious pummelings trying to learn to surf in Hawaii, and again in Costa Rica, surfing taught me I’m better off sitting on the beach drinking wine and watching people surf.

As a surfer and wine lover who’s home break was Malibu, I loved this post! Well done!!

Nice post…makes me miss my OB days. Of course, every day I visit Beserkerland I miss my NorCal days even more. Life in Ithaca isn’t so bad…life in Ithaca isn’t so bad…life in Ithaca isn’t so bad. [cheers.gif]

As a surfer and wine lover in Massachusetts I find, that at times, both hobbies can be frustratingly inconsistent…

You mean you can’t ship waves in either? :wink:

A shot like that could make you “THE Todd”!

[thumbs-up.gif]

Or, even better, The Jean-Charles!

What surfing (and the content of my cellar) tells me:

I have terrible balance.
I’m in danger of drowning.
I need to drink more.

Since this was originally posted in August, I figured that I’d bump it for anyone who didn’t catch it because they were vacationing, at that time – perhaps, even surfing!

Best,

Kenney

It’s about the chase! [cheers.gif]

Excellent post! Having gone too far down the path for a time, the dangers are real!!
Especially the part about too much web surfing…

Cool post Matt. Born and raised in So Cal. Learned to surf at Zuma in mid 70s. Maybe one of the worst, most difficult sections of PCH to surf. The sets just pummel you and the rip tides develop quick. I spent the next 25 yrs on dawn patrol. By the early 90s, I stopped surfing. Just too much agro and kooks. I miss it. Now, I play surf music.

Had great times at County line surfing while at the Dead played Ventura Co Fairgrounds in the mid 80s.