I would give up wine forever, and relinquish my cellar if I could regain the arm strength and time commitment it takes to surf again. Nothing compares.
What a great analogy and so true. Used to jones on every last offer and after 20+ years finally starting to see the light. Another stellar offer is only a click away. Same with waves. Have to admit my board is full of cobwebs and pretty much gave up on it in SoCal but try to get out whenever we travel to places where there are waves.
I love the fact that wine is a continuous journey that never ends - even after that 67 La Tache! And surfing never ends even after that head high tube in Bali.
Matthew - It’s 2am and I’m up with my 20 hour old daughter and first child…this post gave me appreciation for those unknown spots and regions that come into our lives. Great post bruddha…if you ever want to come to North County SD, I have a board and bottle to share.
Great post, Matthew! Having grown up landlocked, I never got into surfing but I certainly see other obsessions of mine which can be used as comps, specifically bass fishing and mountain biking. There are days where the conditions are perfect and all is right in the world so of course there are days where newbs and jerks abound or the equipment fails, and struggles insue.
Great post and analogy Matthew, thank you. Wonderful story telling about the human condition - our foibles as well as our opportunities for greatness, wonder, and pleasure. And I think these ideas could apply to almost any passionate pursuit - golf, hiking, music, business opportunities, restaurants/food, back roads biking, motorcycling, etc. etc. I’ve never surfed but this resonated with me.
It’s weird how so many people who grew up in such an open-minded, positive, inclusive culture have become just the opposite. They’re not all like that, though.
Such a fantastic post!!! I’ve PMed you about re-working it a bit to have it posted as a blog entry on the site’s static pages, to get more broad exposure, it’s so good.
As for the surfing/wine offline, we ALMOST had one during BerserkerDay in Socal some years ago, but all the attendees flaked out except Philip Robert, who paddled out with me.
Sounds like we could get a handful of people out. All in favor of a trip to the warmer waters in SoCal, but if you guys want to come up to Santa Cruz, could have a fun one up here too.