That’s a very fair point! Maybe I was too hasty. From my perspective, Merlot is planted in as many countries and terroirs as Cabernet Sauvignon and only matches the quality of CS wines in just a few communes in Bordeaux. Then again, perhaps vintners relegated Merlot to less-prime locations because they believed Cab Sauv deserved the best spots. Hmm
Hell yeah. We certainly know they can age, and that they have site specificity. Would love to see a more concerted effort to unravel Mourvedre’s potential.
I was wondering if someone would suggest Palomino! Viura really surprises me - although I guess it’s presence in Lopez de Heredia Blanco is evidence enough that great things can be done!
Well, now that’s an opinion after my own heart. Perhaps this is the point I was hoping to surface by asking the question in the first place…
But let me ask you this: If we dismiss the idea of noble grapes because some winemakers make bad wine from them, then what do we say of great terroir? There are certainly many underexploited sites but that’s hardly the fault of the land.
I like your personal definition as it’s fairly inclusive - but you mentioning a Vitis Labrusca variety, Muscadine raises the question - what if Labrusca grapes are just as capable of making fine wine, but they don’t have the benefit of two thousand+ years of selection, study and refinement, like Vinifera?
I’m also skeptical about the usage of “Noble Grape” which is why I put it in quotes to begin with. Useful for starting the discussion but I’d be happy to replace the idea entirely.
Quite a bit of the terminology surrounding wine certainly feels dated - when I was learning about wine, much of the flow of information and lore was very controlled and originated with English or French experts. So they had an outsize influence on how subsequent generations thought about and described wine. There’s really too many people from every country putting on their ascot or their beret when typing out a tasting note. I think that’s changing now that there’s much more access.
I feel like cab franc has a lot of room to grow and the potential to make great wines from a wider number of wineries and regions. I wonder if cooler spots like Oregon, Santa Cruz and Santa Barbara might start developing the grape more.
I guess the flipside is that the herbal nature and lighter body may prevent it from being a grape that has wider appeal beyond wine geek types and Europhiles. You can crank up the ripeness and oak and make a more crowd-pleasing wine (e.g. Paleo), but I’m not sure the big cab crowd will like those as much as cab and cab blends.
I’m not dismissing the idea of noble grapes because some winemakers make bad wine from them, though the vast amounts of bad wine from those varieties doesn’t help the case that they deserve an exalted status. I dismiss the idea of noble grapes because enough excellent wine is made from so many other other varieties that I’m not convinced there is a small group of varieties that stand apart.
I have wines from well over 100 different varieties in my cellar and I’ve had well-made examples of at least twice that number. While many of the greatest wines I’ve had are from “noble grapes,” I’ve had profound and unique wines from too many other varieties to relegate them to second or even lower class status.
“Noble grapes” isn’t just inaccurate. Treating a handful of varieties as elevated and special devalues varieties that don’t fall into that category and endangers their survival. As wine lovers we should be celebrating the diversity of varieties and styles available, not perpetuating a lazy oversimplification.
I might go in the other direction and narrow the first tier band. I would think of these as sort of overlapping distributions of quality such that a great expression of Tier 2 is better than an average Tier 1. I think the Tier 1 are probably not controversial (I think a forced choice exercise would result in this top 4) as they represent the grapes from the best mono-variety wines in the world. Tier 2 are grapes that make historically important and sometimes truly great wines (and the upper tail of the distribution contains some of the best wines in the world). Tier 3 are grapes that do very well in particular circumstances but almost never scale heights. Anyway, this is a model. All models are wrong. Some models are more informative than others.