What did Jasper get wrong? (Burgundy)

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Matt, you are the first person in two threads (the other is on UK Wine Pages) to identify an actual mistake! Thanks.

Interestingly, the physical book has it right. FWIW, the missing word is “drainage”

Jasper, Brady, I got the French version… is there also going to be a new version?

Well, I noticed now and then some errors or ommission, but haven´t marked it - and now mostly forgotten.
What is absolutely necessary is a better index - incl. all the vineyards which are quite hard to find if you don´t now where to look.
Also several (in the meantime) important producers are missing - there were not that many covered at all in the 1st ed.

Also: Chassagne (Vergers) Clos Saint Marc seems to be missing - cannot find anything at all …

Although the maps are not bad, there are some minor detaiuls that could be better worked out …

David, Jasper wrote that he intends to release the new version by April 2021, hopefully sooner.

JF, I don’t know if they’ll do an electronic version. I’ll ask.

Antoine, same answer about a French edition.

Gerhard, I’ll log your Clos St Marc finding. If you could be more specific about index issues, I’ll communicate that. The current version has two indices, one specifically for vineyards. Also please let me know which producers you’d like included. Same with any map updates. It’d be easier if I had specifics. Thank you.

By no means anything comprehensive, just what came to my mind when leafing quickly through the book:
First I´m sorry – I have forgotten about the extra index of the vineyards (mixed it up with another book) – so the two indices are fine.

In addition to the Clos Saint Marc above:
the surface of Les Gaudichots is wrong (as often to be seen).
After 0.23 ha in Lamarche property has been added to La Grande Rue (augmenting the latter from 1.42 to 1.65 ha) there are only (app.) 0.81 ha Les Gaudichots 1er Cru left in three separate parcels.
In the Vosne-Romanée map the difference between Les Gaudichots Grand Cru (=La Tache), 1er Cru and Village sites is not clearly to be seen.

The holdings in Ruchottes-Chambertin are not correct: Rousseau´s Clos des Ruchottes is 1.1 ha (not 1.06 ha as listed on page 131) and it´s not the entire upper part, but only the northern section.
It would also be good to clearly locate it on the map.

Domaine Ponsot – the recent changes will have to be covered, but moreover there are no clear explanations regarding the different bottlings with label Domaine de Chezeaux, and the relations to René Leclerc and Domaine Berthaut.

The Confuron-family in Vosne is not well covered – at least Confuron-Cotetidot and Conduron-Gindre (if not Christian Confuron) merit a separat article.
Gerard Raphet is also quite shortly covered.
Both Philipp and René Leclerc in Gevrey are missing.
Pierre Amiot (fils) lost the Clos-St-Denis to Amiot-Servelle.
Comte Liger-Belair took over the NSG Monopole Clos des Grandes Vignes in 2012 – and also makes a Clos Vougeot now.

It is imho also unjustified to cover Mischied&Mayhem as Corton-producers, but on the other side mention Laleure-Piot, Delarche and Chapuis only shortly.

I also see no reason to cover Beaune before Savigny and Chorey-les-Beaune … and all other AOCs North to South.

Hope it helps …

That was great, Gerhard. You probably just helped the next edition be a bit better. Please post if you think of more. Thanks.

One new thing about the next edition is that Jasper intends to cover Beaujolais with discussion of 60+ producers.

Generally, all vineyards and Crus mentioned in the chapter of each Village should be indicated on the according map, not only the (totally missing) Clos Saint Marc in Chassagne, or Clos des Ruchottes, but also vineyards like Clos des Ursules, Clos de la Mouchere, Clos des Porrets St.Georges, Clos des Monts Luisants, Clos ds Cortons Faiveley … and several others. In Volnay several lieu-dits with own names (e.g. Clos de la Cave des Ducs …) are only called Le Village in the map - and therefore unidentifiable. And where exactly is Clos des Epeneaux?
I know almost all maps are missing it, but that´s a good reason to do it better.

Sure it has been taken into account…
Mugneret Gibourg has now recovered some metayage Vosne and Echezeaux… more areas and segregated Vosne La Colombiere from Vosne Village starting 2018
Ghislaine Barthod has now 11 1er crus (Sentiers and Noirots which previously went into village, very small quantities) started 2017. Louis and Ghislaine to retire and giant Son to take over 2 domaines and Beaujolais… (will he need some help? … )
Castagnier much improved (as noted by Jasper…)
Fourrier (and others… HN…) have extended their negoce wines…
Include Beaujolais… and not Pouilly Fuisse? Maconnais…(Note my book is in London and I am in Provence so I speak out of my head, will further review… when back)

Brady,

Jasper’s book certainly has for many years been my go to source for information on the region. Only because I spend so much time reading it, I found a few things worth noting here. In other words, minor feedback. And just one of these (the first) might be a erroneous, leaving the rest a matter of incompleteness, confusion or personal judgement.

Needless to say I’m very much looking forward to an updated edition, may that be with or without the result of the following comments. Here we go:

Ownership:

Gevrey’s Bel Air
In the Gevrey chapter, on the lieu dit Bel Air (page 131), Jasper mentions that Domaine de la Vougeraie’s plot is in the village part of Bel Air. On pages 264 the domain’s holding is listed as a premier cru. The latter is confirmed by the domain’s website and I have enjoyed some their bottles from this vineyard labelled as premier cru.

Morey’s Clos Solon
On page 169 Domaine Fourrier is mentioned as producing a wine from the Cos Solon lieu dit (village) in Morey-St-Denis. However, the Fourrier plot is not mentioned in the list of holdings of this domain on page 152. To my knowledge this parcel has been in possession at least since Jean-Marie took over from his father (and probably even since his marriage to a member of the Bryczek family: Domaine Bryczek is another owner of Clos Salon).

Echezeaux
Maybe it’s worth adding Domaine Richard Maniere to the list of owners of Echezeaux on (page 215). Not because of this domain’s reputation (I recon it has so little media exposure that reputation might be missing at all), but since it’s 0,25 ha plot is located in one of the best parts of Echezeaux; Les Poulailleres and right next to DRC’s large parcel. Including this in the list, would leave only 0,34 ha of Les Poulailleres surface unaccounted for. Some hobby this is ; )

On the same pages, Echezeaux’s Quartiers de Nuits is accounted for 1,13 ha in total. The total of the owners plots in this vineyards in the list on page 215 is 1,6 ha. That’s a difference of 0,47 ha. I think this can partly be explained by the suggestion that Jacques Cacheux’s 0,51 is in reality less or even none, since this domain also has some Poulailleres, which is not mentioned on the list (did we find the missing 0,34 ha…?).


Personal classification:

Certainly not factually incorrect, since a matter of personal judgement, but I find some inconsistency’s in the classification maybe worth mentioning here.

On page 88 Jasper explains the status that he attaches to each premier/grand cru. He uses ‘outstanding’ for the best grand crus an ‘exceptional’ for the best premier crus. No confusion here, but in some chapters we encounter the use of different terms.

Vosne
In the chapter on Vosne, the most renown grand cru’s of Vosne are designated as “Exceptional Grand Cru”. Should this, in line with the introduction, be “outstanding” or is this meant to indicate an even higher ranking than the other Grand Crus?

Gevrey
Gevreys Aux Combottes is an ‘outstanding premier cru’, whereas Les Cazetier is ‘exceptional premier cru’. Again, on purpose, and if so, what does this distinction indicate?

Then there is the Gevrey premier cru Les Corbeaux. It is marked as an ‘exceptional premier cru’. Jaspers text on this cru however does not suggest such a special status (though I usually quite like it a lot, but that’s beside the point).

Volnay
In the chapter on Volnay the best premier cru’s are ‘exceptional premier cru’s’, but Les Santenots is exceptional in being a ‘Leading premier cru’.

Chassagne
This term ‘leading’ returns in the text on Chassagne, where it is applied to the best premier cru’s (Cailleret, Chaumées and Blanchots Dessus). No ‘exceptional’ at all in Chassagne.

In Chassagne we also encounter an altogether different term. Both Les Bondues and Les Macherelles are classed as ‘lesser premier cru’. This label makes sense on its own, but is confusing since it’s only applied on these two specific vineyards. Are there no lesser premier’s in all the other premier crus on the Cote?


That’s it for me. Such a good book, nothing more I could find in 8 years of thorough reading ; )

Cheers,
Jacob

In terms of cherries which are exported to the USA, this has also hit Germany & the Piemonte very, very hard, and now we’re starting to see it in California.

I almost feel like there could be an entire sub-forum on WB devoted just to this topic aone.

Off the top of my head, I can’t remember ever seeing any mention of a [relative] youngster making wines which were more Old School than had been the parents’ wines.

Everywhere the pattern seems to be that the kids make sloppier jammier sluttier [and likely vastly less ageworthy] wines than did their parents.

PS: Anyone writing seriously about Burgundy also has to devote at least a chapter to what [apparently] François Pinault & Frédéric Engerer have done to Philippe Engel’s legacy.

Thank you Antoine and Jacob. Very good stuff.

Also welcome to the board, Jacob! I look forward to further contributions.

not so sure of that. I think Erwan’s wines at Faiveley are far better and still ageworthy. Silky and less tannic but great depth and balance. I’m sure there are many other examples, Roy, Mortet, lots of positive guard changing. Unfortunately I’ve been priced and aged out and not drinking much young wine.

send me a copy of the book and I’ll be happy to contribute.

Many thanks all, and especially Jacob - great stuff! Some of which I was aware of, and some not.

On the Outstanding/Exceptional 1ers crus, Corbeaux was indeed a mistake and we should have picked up on the confusion between outstanding and exceptional. All in hand for version 2.

Echezeaux numbers still don’t make sense overall - I have been trying to sort a few things with Sylvain Pitiot but no conclusion as yet.

Alan, I agree with you. I think a good many people in the new generation are doing better than the prior generation.

Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée Mugneret probably have made better wines than their father Georges Mugneret did.
I like Charles Van Canneyt’s wines at Hudelot-Noellat better than wines from the prior generation.
Thibaud Clerget has really upped the wines at Yvon Clerget.
I did not taste wines from George Noellat, but the wines from Max Cheurlin are quite good and by reputation better than the ones of his father.

Other places where the newer generation have improved the wines include Arlaud, Bernard Moreau, and Heitz-Lochardet. Then there are numerous situations where the wineries already made great wine and the new generation has kept that going, like the work done by Jean-Claude Ramonet, for example. And, I am not even including wineries where the newer generation has a great reputation but where I have not really tasted the wines, like Alix Millot at Domaine Jean-Marc Millot.

A comment that “[e]verywhere the pattern seems to be that the kids make sloppier jammier sluttier [and likely vastly less ageworthy] wines than did their parents” is just plain wrong and does not at all describe what is going on in Burgundy today. It more describes a poster who likes to make bold statements that are almost always wrong.
There is a new generation in Burgundy today that is doing a fabulous job.

Jasper,

I have enjoyed your first edition and look forward to the new one. I have read that you have said that now that you are no longer in the trade you will be able to be more specific as to the quality of individual producers. I especially look forward to reading your thought on this.

The first book was amazing. Still my trusted resource for burgundy. As previously mentioned comments on style or individual producers would be extremely helpful especially with newer and up and coming producers.

I think there are countless examples where the kids wines are at least as good as the parents. Of those I buy, it’s certainly true for Hudelot Baillet and Confuron Gindre.

Howard’s example of the Mugneret sisters was over 25 years ago. neener