Blind Burgundy was the theme yesterday afternoon as we celebrated a group member’s pending nuptials.
I didn’t take much in the way of notes on the Champagnes, but the Henriot was bright and elegant, very nice, while the Charlier had a nuttiness that had me guessing it was a 1996. Tasty, but I never would have guessed a 2008.
The whites were very impressive. The Dauvissat was outstanding, dark gold color and some butterscotch but fresh citrus and bracing acidity, it rounded out with air. My last bottle and $33 well spent when I bought it on release. The Jadot C-M Blanchot punched well above its weight, rich, but nimble, with mouth-coating texture with great persistence and mouth-watering tartness, my guess was Corton-Charlemagne.
The Chavy was good with a tart finish but lacked the structure in the middle to bring delineation to the fruit. It also suffered from following the two previous whites. I confidently pronounced that the Fevre wasn’t speaking “Chablis” to me, which all but guaranteed that it would turn out to be a Chablis. It had nice concentration, bright with melon, lemon, and some saline minerality that should have clued me in on its source. I’ve been pleased with some recent wines from Fevre.
I was way off on the age of the Grivot, guessing 2001 based on its approachability, though the freshness of the dark cherry fruit should have let me know I was off. Joining the fruit were nice spice and a hint of menthol, I don’t know that I’ve had a Grivot Clos Vougeot since the 1996 at a comparable age and this was far friendlier. I struggled with the Jadot CSJ, as it had a strong evergreen/eucalyptus aroma that seemed familiar but that I couldn’t place, joined by dark cherry and plum with plenty of well-integrated acidity and fine tannin. It’s good now but I don’t think it has reached its peak.
The Mortet Lavaux St.-Jacques reminded me of Chambord, loaded with sweet raspberry liquor fruit and a little heat, young and fruity with fine tannin. I didn’t love the Duroché, as it was a little muddled and brawny and an off-putting medicinal/petrochemical note came out on the finish with air.
The Thierry Mortet showed Luden’s cherry cough drop dark cherry fruit and spice with great purity of fruit that led me to Morey, with a good combination of acidity and tannin delineating the fruit. It’s a nice, gulpable Burgundy. The Faiveley was a textbook red Burgundy, with bright dark cherry, sous bois, earth, and leather, and far more approachable than I would have expected. When I think of red Burgundy, this is the profile that immediately comes to mind.
The Chevillon was an interesting comparison to the 2002 Vaucrains I opened the night before. Rustic and a little bretty with a fair bit of tannin, the dark fruit got a little brighter with air, good, but it could use more time. Finally, the Leflaive Corton showed slightly candied cherry and spice that reminded me of Williams & Selyem, not terribly serious but fun and sneaky long.