Weekend of Burgs

Spent the weekend with some friends and opened a bunch of Burgs, plus a Foreau and a Vietti, over a couple of nights. The weekend and the company were great; the wines were merely good overall, with a few standouts and a few disappointments. Most of these were not my bottles.

  • 2007 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (8/21/2011)
    Really quite nice with a spicy red fruited nose and a hint of licorice or anise. The palate was nicely structured, with nothing protruding, just a neatly wrapped package. There is some real tension here, which is a good thing. I doubt I will ever find a 2007 Burg that I would call profound, but the best ones are drinking very well even at this young age and this not only qualifies as one of the best but also is one of the few that I think will improve. (93 pts.)
  • 1997 Foreau Vouvray Demi-Sec Domaine du Clos Naudin - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (8/21/2011)
    Deep amber color. Interesting nose of botrytis, nuts and some sort of orchard fruit (pears?). Nicely mature Chenin flavors on the palate. Not sweet in the least anymore - perhaps just the faintest suggestions of its former sweetness keeping it nice and round. Good acid balance as well. The finish stays with you for a little while, but doesn’t deliver any unique flavors. (90 pts.)
  • 2006 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (8/21/2011)
    Clear, deep straw color. Edgy nose of lemon, white orchard fruits and cream. Medium-bodied palate with good balance, a nice, saline, mineral quality. Much more restrained on the palate than the nose, which is a good thing because the nose is a bit wild for the context. Gorgeous wine that can continue to improve for some time. (92 pts.)
  • 2010 Vietti Roero Arneis - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero (8/21/2011)
    Intriguing floral nose, with a palate built on bright, crisp acidity balanced by mostly ripe orchard and citrus fruit. A bargain. (90 pts.)
  • 2006 Vincent Girardin Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (8/20/2011)
    I thought this was mildly corked, but others did not seem to notice it. Beneath that there was a fullish pinot with ripe fruit that had been given a bigger dose of wood than was appropriate. NR (flawed)
  • 2000 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Maréchaudes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (8/20/2011)
    This had a good deal more weight than either of the two prior wines, which would have been no problem if it was accompanied by precise flavors with good definition, but this seemed a bit muddy to me. Earthy, for certain, with a darker fruit profile, perhaps a touch roasted. Certainly drinkable but not particularly interesting or uplifting. (86 pts.)
  • 2007 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis (8/20/2011)
    Very different from the Barthod, this was much more earthy and masculine and very Morey. It had more tannic structure and a high, almost shrill, acidity for a 2007. This was less pleasurable than the Barthod for drinking now, but it will wind up lasting a lot longer and has more depth. After some time in the glass the finish lengthens and develops a nice, dusty grip. (88 pts.)
  • 2007 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (8/20/2011)
    Not really a wine for the long haul, but very drinkable right now. Open red berry and dark plum nose, some spices. Soft, round palate, quite elegant, correct flavors but a bit simple. Everything seems to work together with this as I had difficulty singling out any particular component. Not a great deal of structure or depth though, so I am not sure what the point of cellaring these is supposed to be. (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet (8/20/2011)
    Young, fresh, steely but also a touch buttery. The fact that Boillot picked early in 2009 (as he often does) kept this from being too heavy. The finish was not resounding, but adequate. Some wood is apparent, but not out of place. (89 pts.)

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