Hello and welcome to Week 2: Marsannay, Couchey and Fixin.
This week, we will focus on the wines of Marsannay, Couchey and Fixin. This will be the official start of our crawl down the Côte d’Or, in the direction of Chassagne-Montrachet.
Let’s get to some random thoughts on the appellations.
Marsannay–
-Marsannay appellation wines can come from vines located in Marsannay-la-Côte, Couchey and Chenôve
-“Marsannay rosé” is the only village level appellation in the Côte d’Or with the right to label rosé wines under its appellation name, all others are classed as generic Bourgogne
-The latest AOC created (1987)
-Sole appellation with the ability to have 3 types of wine color (red, rosé, white)
Fixin–
-Fixin appellation wines come from the villages of Fixin and Brochon (some Brochon is allowed to be labelled as Gevrey-Chambertin)
-Pronounced Fee-sahn
-One of the oldest settlements in the Côte d’Or
Fixin - 2008 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs (négociant bottling)
Opened and served without decanting. Light-medium color for the appellation (though it deepened after an hour). This is instantly showing attractive layers of rich, and vibrant black fruit with an amazing sense of depth. I can’t think of too much outside of just how delicious this wine is, even compared to some other, ‘greater’ wines in their lineup. Oak is moderate, showing lower than the domaine bottlings of Méo-Camuzet. The acid is thankfully on the higher side, balancing well with the packed spiced black fruit. Mouthfeel is quite textured, with just the slightest notion of rusticity. This is an impressive wine, seeming more like a well placed Gevrey Village with a greater level of spice.
I’m stunned at the quality, regardless of price. If price enters the conversation, I simply need to have more of these.
2005 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Longeroies - Would be better if the finish weren’t clipped, but this is otherwise a complete wine and quite tasty. Simple yet in the style of 05s, plenty of fruit. I suspect the finish will work outself out in time, no need to rush to drink these.
I have the 2006 of this wine for opening this week, probably tomorrow night. I notice you say “négociant bottling”. How did you determine this as I am curious if the wine I have is the same?
06 should be quite a thrill!
Any of the Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs bottlings will be négoce. Domaine Méo-Camuzet are bottled mentioning proprietaire or something along those lines. Also, the bottles such as what I posted on mention “Par SAS Méo-Camuzet Négociant A Vosne-Romanée”
And this is something that you can see on most (at least recent) bottles. There will be some sort of clarification as to the type of activity of the societé.
Either way, judging from this bottle, you are in for a real treat.
I had 2006 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Fixin 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre recently, but didn’t record a note. I just observed that the wine was consistent with this note from May:
“Decanted for a little over an hour. Dark ruby. Subtle nose of cherries, spice, and minerality. On the palate, my first thought (that never went away) was cranberry. Bright acidity combined with clean ripe fruit really did remind me of a cranberry juice (in a good way). Medium bodied with a medium finish. I was really surprised by this wine. Profound? Maybe not. Delicious? Absolutely.”
The thing I find interesting about Marsannay is I thought it would be lighter than Gevrey, being considered inferior, but I find it to be a bit heavier and more metallic (think iron). This is based on the various Bart Marsannays I have drunk over the past few years. It probably is a bit simpler than Gevrey, but I still get a sense of place. For $20 very much worth it.
Fixin, based on the few Gelin Napoleon wines I have drunk, is probably closer to Gevrey in having some more complexity in terms of color profile (not as red as Marsannay), but have all been tasty. I still can recall how enjoyable a 97 Gelin Fixin Napoleon was a number of years ago.
I am interested in hearing what others think characterizes these communes.
2008 Marc Roy Marsannay ‘Les Champs Perdrix’: There’s a whiff of gunflint sulphur to the aroma along with preserved lemons and white peach. In the mouth it is pure, direct and quite focussed. There’s nice density of sappy orchard fruits and the finish is crisp with plenty of lemon juice and mineral action.
Very light color that darkens with aeration. Darker fruited almost Gevrey like nose. Some floral notes on the end. The palate is really well balanced.
This one still has some structure but with the stuffing to age a little more. A finish that is refreshing but not terribly long.
I like this. I have a few more. When they were young they were not that fun. Now, they are quite nice. BTW, the 05 version of this is terrific!
I found the Meo 2006 Marsannay, about a year ago, to be very wound up and needing time. I like this wine, as well as the generic Meo Bourgogne, but the price here in the states tends to be quite high. W-S shows the only US price for the '08 Marsannay at $41, which is quite high for a Marsannay. It is a good wine, but there are a lot of great wines in that ballpark.
How about Regis Bouvier? I think I tried one of his a while ago and wasn’t knocked-out, but he’s a Kermit import so I always wanted to go back and try again.
2002 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Clos Marion Fixin - Importer told me he imported this because the wife of a buyer, Marion wanted some. The same Marion I happened to have been on a blind date 36 years ago for a school ball, NZ is a small country… I had to try it.
If great burgundy should smell like s^&t, I am thinking Anthony Hanson here, this is the wine for you. Quite a bit of brett but surprisingly not overpowering. Normally I would put a wine like this aside, but it turned out to be otherwise enjoyable, dry and taut with good fruit, acidity and balance. Pity about the brett.
Fortunately my case (at least!) of the 2000 Fixin Clos Marion has been superb drinking for the last 18 months or-so - no brett - it even smells of fruit! Down to my last 2 or 3 bottles I think…
I drank my '02 Fougeray de Beauclair Fixin Clos Marion a few years ago and don’t recall brett. In general, I like their wines. My contribution is from their other qualifying Lieux Dit:
1999 Fougeray de Beauclair Marsannay Saint Jacques
Wednesday, February 16, 2011 - Dark red color with limited transparency. Aromas of horseradish, cherry, and a slightly medicinal licorice note. Flavors start with horseradish and black cherry with a peppery spice note on a medium-long finish. The tannins are big and coarse throughout and this is a bruiser of a wine right now. Could see this improving if the tannins can better integrate. Hold.
TN : 2005 Rene Bouvier Marsannay Le Clos(Village level) - $25 - White Burgundy imported by Cynthia Hurley of West Newton, MA. Opened and poured slightly chilled. The aroma was light mix of lemon and oak. On the palate the wine showed a linear lemon flavor, slight ML butteriness and oak, with a slightly tart acid presence. The oak provided the length of flavor with a slight alcohol intrusion. This wine could go another year or two to integrate better, however, I think the end result will be very good, and not excellent, wine with a simple citrus chardonnay taste exhibiting an acidic butter mouthfeel. Good wine but no interest to purchase more… 15/20…Cheers! Gary
Bill and Fred, pleased to see my experience was not typical. I will certainly give it another chance as I could tell the underlying material was impressive, otherwise I would not have enjoyed it as much as I did. Cheers Mike
2007 Frédéric Magnien Marsannay Coeur d’Argile- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay (2/17/2011)
Popped, poured and followed over two days. The nose initially was iron/blood but evolved to softer earth notes. Sharp acidity carries crunchy red fruits, giving the flavors some depth and persistance. There are some firm tannins on the finish where you are also reminded of it’s rusticity. A much better and more balanced wine on the second night. But, wines with acidity at the forefront are a bit problematic for me. Not a buy again at the $29 price tag, but a producer that has my interest. (87 pts.)
Marsannay, 2008 - Domaine Philippe Charlopin-Parizot
Closed on the nose. Medium acidity. Concentrated doses of black fruits, focused on plums and soil bits. Supple tannins. Lower oak impression. Not giving too much at the moment aromatically. This is an easy drinker, not too complex at the moment, but enjoyable in the sense that it simply tastes as it should.
This was initially more closed on day 1, after a day open at 75% full, this has softened, improved and altogether gives more pleasure.
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