VOSNE-ROMANÉE „Les Gaudichots & Aux Malconsorts“ in GRAZ

WINE TALK
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Last Saturday 7 Dec. was the day when a long prepared tasting eventually took place in Graz/Austria:

The two Vosne-Romanée 1er Crus „Les Gaudichots“ & „Aux Malconsorts“ touching La Tâche should be experienced as comprehensively as possible.

Real freaks already know how difficult and pricey it can get to find certain bottles, so first many thanks to two wine-berserkers that helped to add two very rare bottles, one actually in the very last moment: Julien Froger and Don Osborne – great spirit indeed!

Then some basics:

Vosne-Romanée LES GAUDICHOTS: originally 5,66 ha
in 1936: 4,63 ha → La Tâche Grand Cru
rest 1,03 ha: Domaine LAMARCHE: 0,23 ha always blended into LA GRANDE RUE, in 1992 officially
became part of the Grand Cru
rest 0,80 ha: THOMAS family: 0,20 ha (rented to Thierry VIGOT-Battault, 2008 sold to FOREY
Domaine FOREY: first only 0,10 ha, since 2008 0,30 ha
Domaine de la ROMANÉE-CONTI: 0,08 ha ( → to negociants or into „Cuvée Duvault-Blochet“)
MOILLARD(-Grivot): 0,23 ha (always blended with „Aux Malconsorts“,
2005 sold to Domaine DUJAC (also → „Malconsorts“)
Pierre HUDELOT: 0,19 ha – rented to MACHARD de GRAMONT
(additionally 0,05 ha classified as Village AC (Pierre Hudelot / Machard de Gramont)

Bottlings: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: pre- 1936, current prices 5.000-15.000 €
Domaine FOREY: app. since 1986
Domaine VIGOT(-Battault) 1987 until at least 2001
Dom. MACHARD de GRAMONT: not before 1990, maybe from 1993
Dominique LAURENT: only 1989 known
Maison JADOT: only 1996 known
Maison CLAVELIER: only 1999 known
Maison Niolas POTEL: 1999-2007
Maison Lucien LeMOINE: 2007-09
Maison M. SABAN/Caves du Palais: app. from 2008 (from M.d.Gramont?)
Roche de BELLENE (N.Potel): presumably 2011
Not asssured to exist: 1991 Thomas Chiffot, 1998 Chantal Lescure

Vosne-Romanée AUX MALCONSORTS: 5,86 ha:
Domaine du CLOS FRANTIN (Bichot): 1,78 ha
MOILLARD(-Grivot): 2,70 ha (blended with Les Gaudichots), 2005 sold to →
→ Domaine de MONTILLE: 1,37 ha, incl. 0,50 ha „Cuvée Christiane“
→ Domaine DUJAC 1,33 ha (blended with Les Gaudichots)
Domaine André CATHIARD, later →
→ Domaine Sylvain CATHIARD : 0,74 ha
Domaine LAMARCHE: 0,50 ha
Dom. HUDELOT-NOELLAT: 0,14 ha
Several negociants, among them
JABOULET-VERCHERRE
Lucien LeMOINE
Nicolas POTEL
George VASSEUR

Vintages: 1960ies – 2007

(to be continued in due time – also with some pics)

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merci… champagne.gif

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Can’t wait!

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Here two pics of most of the available bottles (sorry, no great quality)

1st Gaudichots:

http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/pict0606u4m1fi5rt9.jpg

2nd Malconsorts:

http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/pict0611ave2w6az9l8.jpg

(to be continued)

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It’s already making for interesting reading. I’m sure it was a fascinating event.

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Well, at 7 p.m. 20 people, sharing 16 sets of stems, gathered around the long table in the cellar of Wein&Co in Graz. People came from Munich, Nürnberg, London, Luxenbourg, Vienna, Salzburg, Carynthia and Graz.

http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/pict0620a726hqvgio8.jpg

(the following notes and points are mine)

1st flight:
1) Malconsorts Le Moine 2007: quite bright red, fruity nose with predominantly strawberries (nice), liquorice with a touch of malo and oak, quite sweet on the palate, elegant, medium length, noticable acidity, lacking a bit intensity, but very good, 88p
2) Gaudichots Le Moine 2007: very similar to No.1 – even so much that one suspects the same wine-maker (which most probably isn´t the case), slightly spicier, slightly drier on the palate, a bit more weight, 89p
3) Malconsorts Lamarche 2000: a bit fuller colour, initially a bit dull, but later more sweetness, less oak noticable, good grip, hints of earthyness, opened beatifully, harmonious, very nice drink, 90p
4) Malconsorts Dujac 2007: (this contains some 17% Gaudichots, also from old Moillard vineyard), very bright, even light colour, very fragrant and fine nose, red fruits and a touch of herbs, but also light on the palate, lacking weight and length, attractive but slightly disapointing, 86p
5) Malconsorts Montille 2007 (Cuvee Christiane?): the label says only Malconsorts, but after the tasting I detected that the cork was branded with Christiane … so [scratch.gif] … this is the 2nd half of the old Moillard property, slightly darker than No.4, but brighter than No.2, slightly darker fruits too, more grip, even noticable tannins, this could use some more years in the cellar, good balance, serious, 89+p

Group rating: (first we voted for the favorite wine of the flight, then for the 2nd place by raising hands:
5 / 17 / 11 / 2 / 23 (points)

2nd flight:
6) Malconsorts – Georges Vasseur 1986: good full ruby, a dusty touch blew off, hints of lovage, but sweet on the palate with excellent grip, tiny dryness in the finish, old-fashioned style, but a positive surprise due to the vintage, 90p
7) Malconsorts – Clos Frantin 1970: very orange red, muffy, bitter, alas corked! NR [oops.gif]
8) Malconsorts – Clos Frantin 1976: darker colour, lively acidity that stepped in the background when the mature fruit unfolded, very nice mouthfeel, good balance and prooved an excellent drink for the following 1st course, 89p
9) Gaudichots – Thierry Vigot-Battault 1988: Medium red, interesting spicy nose, slightly dry on the palate, forthcoming acidity, finish a bit severe, lacking fat, but nevertheless „good“, 84p
10) Malconsorts – Moillard 19??: very dark full colour, sweet dark fruits with coffee beans and cocoa in the nose, tobacco, damp earth, very sweet on the palate, real length, old-fashioned mature wine, great pleasure to drink, vintage unknown, but I suspect something in the early 60ies, 1962 or 1964 … or even a cuvee … 94p

Group rating: 13 / - / 10 / 6 / 26

1st course: Tagliollini in cream sauce with morels (Spitzmorcheln)

(to be continued tomorrow)

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Very exciting! But obviously with many wines from the 70s, this may not be the best wines that can be obtained from this terroir… I hope the 2008-2012 will be better given better viticulture practices. Bu they need age.

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Definitely, but 1) it´s difficult enough to find any of these, and 2) the 2007 should be … and were already … kind of accessable.

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PART 2:

3rd flight:
11) Gaudichots – N. Potel 2006: quite full ruby, fine red berried nose, slightly reserved, but deep and complex, good grip, not most powerful but long and satisfying, can be kept, 90p
12) Gaudichots – N. Potel 2003: fuller ruby, nose more open, plums and darker berries, earthy, softer, sweeter, but intense and with excellent structure, really long, fine potential, 93p
13) Malconsorts – N. Potel 2003: almost same colour, but slightly drier in the mouth, a bit reserved and severe, less sweet, but more grip, needs time, but not quite on the level of the former, 92p
14) Gaudichots – Forey 2006: darkest colour of all 5, seemed very concentrated, but was CORKED ! NR
15) Malconsorts Montille 2006 (definitely) Cuvee Christiane: not very dark ruby, hints of orange, fine complex nose with strawberries, beetroots and a touch of toast, slightly dry tannic edge behind the sweetness, good grip, but only medium length, can still improve, 90+p

Group rating: 12 / 20 / 18 / - / 7

4th flight:
16) Gaudichots – Thierry Vigot-Battault 1996: not very full colour, some red and dark fruits, a bit herbal, really high acidity, kind of bulky on the palate, reasonably length, but lacking sweetness and depth, remained quite simple, 84p
17) Gaudichots – Marchand de Gramont 1999: deep dark ruby, still a bit purple, full, fine sweet nose of dark berries, even cassis, minty and stony, exellent core, complex, very long, youthful, 93p
18) Malconsorts – N. Potel 1999: full deep ruby, intense but slightly reserved in the nose, a bit dry, but concentrated and long, minerally driven, needs time, 92p
19) Gaudichots – Jadot 1996: more developed in colour and nose, more red berries, hints of lovage, sweet entry, slightly dry finish, interesting but not quite balanced, acidity of the vintage shows, 89p
20) Gaudichots – Maison Clavelier 1999: this was originally a Double-Mag, filled very softly with a tube into an empty 0.75 bottle (and 3 others), slightly brighter colour than 17) and 18), more open, not very pure in the nose, but spicy and mouthfilling, very good company for the following dish, medium length, 90p

Group rating: 4 / 29 / 21 / 1 / 2

Main course: Roastbeef rosé with mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables, creamy polenta and Mediterranean vegetables

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Thank you for the report of this interesting tasting …

March 2007 (at the domain) : Dujac Vosne Malconsorts 2007 : 92/100.

Recently, an unexpected great wine with :
Vosne-Romanée : “Malconsorts” Les Fils de Henri Mathieu 1959

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Before continuing with the TN a short announement in my own interest:
In late October 2014 most probably I will come to Washington DC with my ensemble (string trio) to give a concert. We are looking for a 2nd opportunity to perform to cover the expenses. If someone is interested or knows somebody who might be – please let me know by PM.

PART 3:

5th flight:
21) Malconsorts – Moillard 1997: quite dark and full ruby, nose of dried berries and plums, leathery, a bit stemmy, very old fashioned style, slightly bitter finish, very full-bodied and tannic, far too young despite the „soft“ vintage, rating in case of the doubt (might become fine in 15+ years … like No.10?), 88-91+?
22) Gaudichots – Thierry Vigot-Battault 1990: this is classy, deep red with bright rim, nice scale of fruits with minerals, slightly stemmy, good follow thru, noticable acidity, good finish, a really good wine (only in the context of the vintage a bit „mean“, certainly could have been „better“), 90p
23) Gaudichots – Dominique Laurent 1989: browning, very bitter, CORKED …
24) Gaudichots – Forey 1991: medium deep red with brightening rim, red-berried, forest floor and cool spices in the nose, first slightly foresquare on the palate, but developed very nicely, mature without a hurry, expansive and satisfying, textbook, 93p
25) Malconsorts – André Cathiard 1990: brighter red than 24) with more orange rim, but deeper center, sweet nose of fragrant dark fruits, tobacco, mushrooms and wet leaves, very open, really deep, beautiful texture, long, super (and that´s the way it is for some 10 years) – 95p

Group rating: 2 / 2 / - / 25 / 27
Note: it is not really fair to compare the 1990 Cathiard to the 1991 Forey … both are outstanding efforts in the context of the vintages.

6th flight:
26) Malconsorts – Hudelot-Noellat 2002: medium red, clear classy strawberry nose, tiny sweetness, a bit straight and still slightly reserved, but balanced and long, 91p
27) Gaudichots – Marchand de Gramont 2002: slightly deeper, fragrant and more open with dark berries, sweeter and more intense, structured with ripe tannins, 92p
28) Gaudichots – Forey 2002: darkest colour, lots of dark berries and minerals, striking texture, very intense and long, still many years ahead, grippy finish, 93p
29) Gaudichots – N. Potel 2005: medium deep saturated red, very clear classy nose of strawberries with a touch of tomatoes and asian spices, very deep, still slightly closed on the palate, structure showing, great potential, 94+p
30) Malconsorts – Sylvain Cathiard 2002: full bright ruby, a sea of red-berries and cherries in the nose, slightly „modern“ lactic touch, but perfectly balanced, really chewy and mouthfilling, very long, 95p

Group rating: 1 / 9 / 10 / 18 / 22

My ratings were rather conservative than too enthusiastic (as sometimes to be found here and elsewhere …) - 85 points is very good, 90p outstanding, 95p is really great …)

(to be continued with the dessert wines and a summary)

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Laurent,

I know it sounds curious, I could have been generous and given 87 points, but although the bottle seemed perfect and the wine was fine in the nose (the very bright colour didn´t confuse me since this is typical for Dujac) it was lacking a real mid-palate - and in comparison to the others on the table there was a huge noticable difference …
(it was also consistant with two other 07 Dujacs I´ve had)

BTW: you couldn´t have tasted the 2007 in March 2007 … [wink.gif]

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Gerhard,

Sorry, march 2009 (the 2007 Dujac were great - Clos de la Roche and Clos St-Denis).

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Dessert wines (no ratings):

31) Muscat de Rivesaltes VdN – Domaine Boudau 2010 (0.75): bright yellow, very fresh and fragrant, no trace of the 15.5 alc, went excellently with the fruits
32) Riesling Eiswein „Bad Münsterer Höll“ (Nahe) – WG Rotenfels 1990 (0.375): deep yellow, very high acidity despite the sweetness, a bit contradictory, but interesting
33) Ruster Welschriesling TBA (Trockenbeerenauslese) - Ernst Triebaumer (ET) 1981 (0.35): deep bright orange, intense nose, very sweet but lively, very long, only at the end a hint of bitterness (so the suspicion of TCA came up, but mine was already gone then …)
34) Fonseca Vintage Port Quinta do Panascal 2008 (0.375): deep dark red, young but accessable, went fine with the chocolate cake

Dessert variations: Maroni-Moussé (Moussé from sweet chestnuts) with red fruits, hot chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream

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The 04 Potel Gaudichots was sensational a few years ago.

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Actually the 03 and 05 LG Potel showed really great, 06 also vg.
Don´t have any 04 Potel (only Forey) …

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Thank you for the notes, very interesting.
Great to see both 02 and 03 show well. I expect very different wines…

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Hmmm. More good/great ratings for 2003 red Burgs. Could it be? Could it be? Could 2003 represent the only remaining value in great red Burgs??? Head to the auction houses and buy with both hands!!

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Peter …the more I learn and know about Burgundy, I more I realize that I know nothing.

For example, I did not buy too many 2003 red because I was guessing and believing they will be too California; and then well the 2004 red… [head-bang.gif]

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Well, different they were in style, but actually not really in quality - at least not these wines.
Of course, if you like your Burgundy exclusively red-berried, pure and classic, you might prefer 2001, 02, 05 …

I was one of the few here to defend (several, not all) 2003s. However - not all are on that high level - there are also very broad, hot ones lacking in acidity - or (worse) wines with sharp (artificial) acidity that will never become harmonious, so I´d recommend always to taste before buying.
I can assure you that e.g. the 03 AM Cathiard is also very fine, if not quite up to the 02.

Also (among others) Louis-Michel Liger-Belairs 03 are highly sucessful …