From the beginning, I never understood this recipe, nor would I ever take it to be Italian. Vodka is supposed to be a neutral spirit. It always seemed to be to be a tomato cream sauce with a novelty ingredient that brought nothing to the recipe except maybe the flaws of a cheap vodka if that’s what you used.
Mark, in a way I agree with your sentiments re: Vodka sauce, BUT unless one has had it done perfectly… and It can be amazing done just right even if it is nuova cucina.
Personally I just almost always use a bit of leftover red wine when I am making a tomato-based sauce. Goodness knows I almost always have some lying around.
I’ll try to get the cook in our house to weigh in on this, but we have vodka sauce fairly frequently. I think I could tell the difference in a side-by-side tasting: the vodka sauce will have a certain mellowness to the tomato flavor that the other sauce would lack. It’s almost more about what the vodka removes (sharpness, acidity) than a discussion of what it adds - although Jordan’s comment about umami might be what I’m thinking of, too.
I will put down my gravy recipe even though I know it will be subject to intense scrutiny and criticism… >
1 spanish onion peeled and medium to small dice
1 full head of fresh garlic, cloves peeled and sliced thin (about 1 cup give or take if you’re using pre-peeled or shudder pre-chopped.
1 cup EVO (cooking quality Bertolli or the like) it’s a lot and when you stir the simmering sauce it will emulsify back in. I like the taste of good olive oil in my gravy.
1/4 cup cup coarse sea salt
1 TBSP crushed red pepper flakes
4 whole bay leaves
1/4 cup dried oregano
1/4 cup+ dried basil (optional, I have fresh now so that’s what I go with)
1/2 cup dry red wine (you know, the one that’s open on the counter)
You’d use vodka when you want neutral flavor, no acidity and to bring out alcohol soluble flavors. I often use white wine in tomato sauce because I don’t want the pronounced red grape flavors from red… but even whites add acidity which most tomato sauces don’t need, so I’ve got to have tomatoes with a lot of sweetness.
Thanks Otto. I’ve ratcheted way back on wine collecting over the last 3-4 years. I still open and drink good stuff (2 Chaves and a Sauzet last night with friends) but I’m just not into TNs etc the way I was… and I’ve talked out all the typical wine topics (closures, terroir etc). But it’s nice to check in every once in a while.
I hear you my friend. While I’m relatively new to the world of wine enthusiasts, I already feel some signs of deflation when it comes to TN’s. I just wish I had more restraint in my wine purchases, but all the sales are killing me.