The Peay estate is remote. No, really remote. It took us 90 minutes from Healdsburg winding thru the narrow, mountain roads. My wife would add nauseous to the description. Add in the logging trucks screaming around blind corners and you’ve got an imposing trek.
Once there, what a treat. Four miles from the coast in an isolated, beautiful part of California. We met Nick Peay, an owner along with wife Vaneesa and brother Andy. Nick manages the vineyards, Vaneesa makes the wine and Andy markets the wine. We had spent time with Andy in the past at a wine dinner in Kansas and were thrilled to do the same with Nick this trip.
I’ve been a buyer of the wines for several years, so full disclosure is I’m a huge fan. These wines are so balanced and delicious. The Chardonnay is one of the best in CA to my palate. Just the perfect balance between acidity and richness. I’ve had some chard that seems to try too hard to show food friendly acidity. With Peay, it’s effortless (Vanessa may disagree )
The pinots are my favorite though. They all seem to have a mineral component I find unusual in CA. My simple palate described it as brassy with black tea, but Nick says he finds them to show iron. He says the soil has quite a bit of it. That makes sense because I could see these pinots as 3rd cousins to a feminine 1er Cru from Nuits St Georges, probably more in line with Mugneret Gibourg than Gouges.
Another great visit with a gracious host. A wonderful trip.
I like the Peay pinot noirs quite a bit myself, though I must admit I’ve never quite understood the difference between their Scallop Shelf, Pommarium and Ama bottlings. I thought that it indicated different vineyards on their property, but read somewhere that was incorrect. Since you’ve spent time with the principals, maybe you can explain it.
Glenn - last time we opened a bottle we said that very same thing. We had just received a case but i emailed Andy and he immediately sent more. Was glad we did it!
We made that trip three years ago. Except, we went up the coast on a spectacular day and returned over the mountains. Nick was a perfect host. The property is a treasure.
The wines … just wonderful. Chards, pinots, syrah’s and we LOVE their Viognier .
Don - I’m with you on the pinots. Andy goes thru great detail explaining the differences in the Peay newsletters but I’ve yet to find a strong distinction between SS, Pomarium and Ama. Maybe it takes more time and I’m drinking them too soon. All delicious but in my humble opinion perhaps not worthy of separate distinction. Time and more experience with the wines might change my opinion.
As far as location of the wines, Nick confirmed the Pinots are not contiguous neighbors. They have designated blocks from various areas of the vineyard that most closely express the style they want for each bottling.
Andy or Nick- chime in if I’m off base. Had plenty of vino today in Calistoga and could be mistaken.
It was a pleasure to have had you out here. Glad you enjoyed the time, the wine. Perhaps you should schedule your next visit to our vineyard after a housing bust. The last one had a dramatic quieting effect on the logging activity out here.
The three estate Pinots are distinctly different, really! I’m just glad you enjoy them all.
The same blocks go into the same cuvées every year, and there are 25 different lots (I think). The objective is to make three compelling wines with different personalities, as opposed to trying to make a “style” of wine of each cuvée. In fact, increasing vine age and varying vintages have caused the styles to ‘wander’ just bit (most notably with Pomarium, then Ama). But different they are, and it is just a delight to follow the lots in the barrel, then as blend trials, and finally assembled just before bottling. On the other hand, they are all from here, grown and made by the same people, and so it is expected that they be more similar than different. But I swear, if you should dare to be so profligate, open all three side by side – you’ll see!
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