The 2004 Morey-Blanc Meursault-Boucheres has that cool rock minerality and is crammed with those kind of citrus fruits that one associates more with perhaps Valmur than Meursault. It is compact and tight and if one wanted to be a tad unkind you could call it a little malnourished. It was indeed a lot more rich and flamboyant on release so I suspect that all of the exotic Meursault notes are having a bit of a sleep right now. There are some enticing floral notes and it finishes with a crisp blast of grapefruit acidity.

Hi Jeremy.

Do you think this wines slightly atypical flavor profile (it’s atypicity??) is more to do with the vintage than the producer??

Trying to get a good read on '04 whites, and they now really seem to be all over the place, from bad to great, prematurely
advanced to still so young and tight, open and giving to closed and like mineral rocks…(if all that makes sense…).


There is definitely a cooler element to the wines and the better, more powerful things on release have certainly tightened up. There’s is a floral, almost nettle like quality that may be termed GM if you encountered these characters in a red.

Some 04 Chablis are really drinking well now including Fevre’s Fourchaume and MdT and even Raveneau’s Blanchots and MdT. It really seems to be a case by case example as to what is drinking well now and what demands extra cellaring with fingers crossed.


Didn’t need to check the author with a pun title like that !

David Schildknecht posted an interesting assessment on '04 white burgs in a post on the Squires board yesterday. He thinks many have lost the early charm and have gone to sleep, hoping to awake with their low oxygen state intact. I agree with Jeremy, though, that some '04s (Chablis at least), still are drinking well, if you like them young.