Vajra vintage graphic

On Instagram @Jancis_Robinson posted this vintage graphic from Vajra’ website.

I like it but do not totally understand. Particularly the x-axis of dark tones to red tones. My initial interpretation was dark/blue fruit to red fruit and was wondering how nebbiolo could vary that way, harvest year by harvest year. Thicker skins? Caused by more adverse weather? Less rain?

The y-axis of finesse vs power…I can understand a bit easier. More sun, riper, more sugar, more alcohol, more power. Do I have that right?

There seems a good correlation between power and richness which makes sense. But minerality with dark tones?

Rgds, Bill

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Difficult to be certain, as it’s a broad sensory opinion, and so subject to interpreting the mind of the creator.

My guess is that the red/black fruit relates to flavour ripeness (but I suspect would be affected by decisions in the winery).

Power partly related to sugar ripeness / alcohol, but by using mineral/velvet/rich, almost certainly this would lean into wider physiological ripeness e.g. of skins/pips and the impact on tannic structure.

I’m rather tickled by the position of 2005, one of the most central vintages on their chart, yet a vintage that has a typically negative / variable reputation - which just goes to show the danger of oversimplified explanations.

I’m also guessing 2002 is somewhere off the top right hand corner. :wink:

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red/black fruit relates to flavour ripeness

On the producer website, I read the fact sheets for 17 and 19 which mentioned plenty of red fruit, and are on the “red tones” side of their chart. 19 for them was a 185 day vintage. 17 was one of the “longest and latest”. In the 17 fact sheet that talk about cooler nights slowing sugar accumulation and enhancing phenolic ripening. All this sounds positive. Which would make me conclude that “red tones” was ripe.

I looked for one on the dark tone side, like 09. I couldn’t find the fact sheet but read tasting notes from various places and sure enough more mention of "Deeply spiced notes lead to plum, black cherry, licorice, menthol, tar and licorice " from Vinous (AG).

So yes their chart correlates. I don’t really understand, and maybe it is more about decisions during winemaking and styles evolving over time, rather than weather or climate change, or age of the vines. I’m trying to learn. Nebbiolo is a go to table wine for me–though I don’t often go for the Barolos.

All of these were for the Albe. Vajra’s “entry level” Barolo.

thanks, Bill

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I am a fan of this Vajra vintage chart (posted it in a previously threads about Barolo and vintages)!

Would first of all take this as more of a vintage chart related to Vajra - I am mentioning this this perception might vary depending on the holdings of the winemaker but as they are a relatively large winery I imagine that it gives a quite good general indication.

With regards to the x-axis I am thinking perhaps more common that it refers to dark cherries or plums for example. I rarely find blue berry notes or black berries for example. on the red tones, yes of course strawberries, raspberries are more common, but sometimes I can find rosehip or even lingonberry notes.

My interpretation of the y-axis is that it its related to feel of weight of the wine in a sense. While the symbols are more of textural character. Well, minerality is perhaps the odd one out which at least to me stands out a bit and could cause more confusion. I can somehow imagine it but I am not sure I would be able to explain it in a good way.

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Hi Ian,

it’s a good point, and agree, this vintage chart should be seen as a Vajra chart rather then a general, though it gives an indication of the general.

I do not have any experiences with the 2005 vintage for Barolo (have had some Barbarescos) but Ian D’Agata keeps beating the drum for the vintage being a lot better than most have given it credit for, and that it can be a great vintage (something he saw from the start of course). IIRC then the key consideration was if harvest was done before or after the rain. Before the rain and things seem to have gone well, and that’s why Barbaresco was considered better in 2005 - the harvest took place earlier in general.

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I had the 2005 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Romirasco almost a year back now. It is the only 2005 I have had but it nearly made my WOTY list. The chart’s 2005 position and velvet note fits fairly well also.

@Ian_Sutton I wonder if it is a case of people seeking out the more salient features i.e. more extremes.

This was a great thread, that included discussion on aging, mostly on WV pinot noir, but also on nebbiolo. @Otto_Forsberg @Marcus_Goodfellow @larry_schaffer and many others contributed greatly.

I’m basically using this post to think out loud about how what I’m learning from that discussion relates to this vintage chart.

@Otto_Forsberg “But one still needs to remember that the pH (and alcohol!) has a noticeable effect on how one perceives tannins - the exact same tannins feel more astringent in a low pH medium and less astringent in high-pH medium. The exact same tannins taste noticeably more bitter in a high-alcohol wine compared to a low-alcohol wine (an effect quite noticeable in 2017 Nebbiolos, because this was a hot and dry vintage resulting in small, thick-skinned and very ripe grapes making very tannic, high-alcohol wines - these wines can be noticeably tannic and bitter in character).”

Forsberg isn’t saying anything specific about Vajra and it could very well be that location of Vajra’s vineyards (their comment that the Vajra '17 vintage fact sheet had cooler nights slowing sugar accumulation and enhancing phenolic ripening) may cause a difference from what Forsberg is referring to generally about regarding higher alcohol. The Vajra chart characterizes the 17 vintage as “velvet” as well, which would conflict, wouldn’t it?, with this being a thicker skin, higher tannin year in general. I found 1 site that said the Vajra 17 Albe was at 14.5% alcohol. But, roughly, more alcohol and more tannin correlate move the vintage down the Y-axis towards Rich.

@Marcus_Goodfellow “That said, pH is a HUGE impact on the efficacy of sulfur(SO2) in the wine. Low pH wines will stay fresh much longer than high pH wines. However, sulfur also binds up anthocyanins and pigment in the wine, leaving low pH wines, in youth, less fruit dense, and less deeply hued. For some varietals this is less noticeable but in Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo it usually shows.”

Lower pH Nebbiolo wines, more free sulfur, wine lighter color. Relates to Vajra’s x-axis? My reasoning might be strained. Also this is in the youth. Over time, sulfur decreases as alcohol oxidizes to acetaldehyde which binds sulfur (Forsberg) and the wines color deepens (and other things oxidize as well getting to maroon and caramel colors… Does the % alcohol therefore decrease over time as well?

We don’t any clues from Vajra about pH and TA differences between vintages–except words like phenolic ripening. And plus the winemaker may adjust the pH and TA so it may not appear to be a vintage distinction.

Ok, I’m still stuck on trying to understand that x-axis, and what happens in a particularly year to move it left (darker) or right (redder).

And also then figuring out my preferences. My gut right now says I like redder tones better than darker tones–but what I am eating while drinking?

regards,
Bill

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Thanks for posting that Bill.

fyi-pH is a very latge impact on hue in red wines.

The lower the pH the more the wine will typically be red in hue (I am not speaking to depth or intensity of color at all, just the red vs purple/blue tone) and the higher the pH the more the hue will move towards purple and into blueish tones.

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It’s all starting to get too technically complicated for me :sweat_smile: though I’m not sure I would try to force everything through that graph. a bit like trying to force a square through a circle.

Somehow the yeasts plays an important role. I leave it to someone else to give it a go explaining what events during a vintage triggers what yeast strings and flavors to take place during fermentation. :roll_eyes:

And don’t forget that Nebbiolo wines can shift from one to the other at various points in time - red to dark, dark to red, or both at ones.
It’s not necessarily static… Some Barolo wines shows citrus fruit notes like oranges. That’s not even in that chart.

The ever evolving changes, over time (aging, in the glass) and when the wine feels like it is one of the things to love about Nebbiolo.

Yes I do get lost in the weeds. Probably even enjoy it.

I like your words above about dark cherry or plum–because I can imagine how the same fruit could ripen at different rates, and be darker or more sour one year vs the next. And we just leave the blue fruit out of it. Because these Vajra vintages come from the same vineyard, same vines only a year older, same mix of clones perhaps, and so how that x-axis might vary.

And then I learn at least one thing that actually does change wine’s color, not just one vintage vs another, but years in the bottle, is pH and TA. So it got me just a tiny bit more understanding. And there are flavor and texture changes that correlate with color. (I think.)

Bill

PS If anyone wants to start complicating things with :grinning:yeast, please go ahead.

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Yes, I also learned that (new to me as well) thanks to your curiosity Bill!

Cheers,
Mikael

Ok learned another thing about red fruits vs darker fruits from the same variety, from the same vineyard. How moist is the soil during ripening. More moist, all things being equal, ripens faster, ripens sooner. Here is Steve Doerner from Cristom (WV and pinot noir not Barolo) in an interview with Levi Dalton (I’m giving you a long quote for the context–bolded the red vs dark part below.)

As I continue to listen to Doerner discuss the different vineyards, and the altitude of each, it seems that ripening faster is more salient than ripening sooner for red vs darker fruit.

Steve Doerner 1:32:46
Well, we’re primarily volcanic, we have no kind of old marine sediments on the property. There are some of those on on the west side of Eola hills because it kind of got tilted up, you know, on the west side. So some of the old marine layer that’s under everything in the Willamette Valley was re exposed over there. But on our side it’s it’s all volcanic and it’s really just a question of depth of how Jory versus Witzel those are kind of the two extremes. We do have some sedimentary soils but they’re from the Missoula floods. They’re not marine sediments. They’re, they’re from east of us and came more recently through the last ice age. You know, when there’s some flooding huge amounts of water came rushing down the Columbia Gorge and flooded the Willamette Valley and deposited a lot of waterborne silts and stuff. On our site it’s it’s the lower altitude vineyards, primarily our Pinot Gris has some of the old sedimentary soils. But as you move further up the hill, you know it pretty soon goes exclusively to volcanic so there’s kind of a line on our vineyard that I kind of called the lakefront that would have been a lake back when those floods were happening. And it wasn’t a flood, it probably happened hundreds of times. But we think that that point is a high watermark because there’s no none of that sedimentary soil above that point.

Levi Dalton 1:34:09
Have you think the volcanic affects the flavor profile?

Steve Doerner 1:34:12
Well, there’s there’s some clay in it that I think helps to hold water a little bit better than some of the marine soils. They’re very deep soil, some of those marine sediments, but they don’t hold as much water even though they’re deeper, you know. So it kind of depends on the season, if you will, or which which one gives you the best idea, you know, the best fruit but I think I think of how it affects the fruit in terms of how much water there is and therefore when it ripens, you know. And so you’ve got the Jory version of volcanic which is quite deep and therefore it holds more water naturally. We’re not talking about irrigation right now. So I’m assuming we’re talking dry farming. So those if you were to pick them all at the same time, say you had a Jory soil and say a shallower volcanic soil on sedimentary solid, if you pick them all at the same time, the sedimentary soil would probably be a little bit riper and the and the deep volcanic soils would wouldn’t be so ripe. So you don’t have to pick them on the same day. So this is a bit of a theoretical thing anyway. But I think you get kind of those strawberry lighter, redder fruits in the in the soils that have more moisture. But if you waited long enough, you could move that into sort of the darker fruits, you know, and vice versa, you get kind of the darker fruit or more rustic things in the soils that are dried out a little faster. But we all try to pick at the ripening that we want and you don’t have to pick them on the same day. The cold wet, vintages might have, there might be an advantage in those years to be on sedimentary soils, because they’re gonna ripen a little bit earlier and faster. So I like to think which one makes the best wine is very dependent on the season. You know, if you have a very hot early season, then maybe some of the deep volcanic soils that hold more water are going to have the advantage and vice versa. If you have a cold wet year, you do want to accelerate ripening, and so you’re better off to have a very well drained soil that is maybe going to promote ripeness, and you might get it off before the season ends. And so it’s not one is better than the other. It’s just they’re both useful in a changing climate, especially when we get all these extremes