Two Lovely Mature Wines: 1995 Vieux Telegraph and 1994 Fontalloro

Hanging with some close friends at their house to watch the BAMA v UConn game. They were grilling lamb chops so, despite them being cocktail folks, figured I would bring some wines that would pair well with the lamb. Was cool to see our friends enjoying these older wines, not their normal wheelhouse.

The 1994 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro was super tight on opening and decanting. The acidity was high and the fruit obscure. Nothing wrong with it, it was structurally fine, just not enjoyable, so I set it aside and we popped another wine.

In contrast, the 1995 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau was spectacular from the get-go. Wide open aromatics. Got a broad range of Provençal spices and garrigue, florals and dried red fruits, hints of licorice and just a wee kiss of brett to give some old school CDP funk to the equation. The palate was round, smooth and caressing. Fruits more on the dark spectrum, some brambly blacks and ripe plums. Beautiful, seamless texture to this wine. Not a hair out of place, alcohol not even a thought. I was wowed by a 98 VT that I popped two weeks ago and posted here about it. This 95 is every bit is wonderful as that 98. Enough so that I am seeking more. This is the CDP that I grew up on, not what we generally see today. Oh, and the pairing with grilled lamb was on point! (95 pts.)

Expecting nothing, I circled back to the Fontalloro about 2.5 hours after opening and decanting. Everyone had segued to cocktails, sitting down for the game. I smiled, perhaps let out a little chuckle. This wine had morphed into a little beauty, and apparently it was all for me. Dried red fruits and rose petals, dry earth and bramble. Firm palate, acidic structure still omnipresent but now in support of a broad red fruit range. Follows with some blood orange citrus notes. Palate picked up weight as well. A very nice showing for this old Italian table wine. (93 pts.)

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Nice!! I have that Fontalloro sitting around somewhere. Will need to get some older VT. I have quite a bit 90s Beaucastel but no VT.

Wait, no Bama for ‘Bama?

When in Rome!

Just saw the 2020 Vieux Telegraph at a local retailer known for good prices @ $115. Glad that I’m out of the game!

Just had a terrific 2000 Vieux Telegraphe. It had been ages since I’d tasted one, I forgot how good these are (or were, I’m not sure if more recent vintages are like the older ones).

Used to really like the ‘95 VT. 1995 was a good year in CNDP. I liked it better than 1998. I haven’t had the VT in a long time, but this half bottle of Fortia I opened in February was deliciously resolved and balanced with no roastiness or Brett.

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