Trip Report: epic weekend in the Mosel

Just back from a pretty fast paced weekend traveling around Germany with visits to Max Ferd Richter, Markus Molitor, Gunther Steinmetz, Martin Mullen and Donnhoff. Thanks to all those who previously posted about the region, I leaned heavily on some previous posts here which were immensely helpful in planning the trip. Some of my notes are more complete than others, and apologies up front for any errors I may have made in transcribing my notes, hopefully they’re helpful.

– Day 1 –

I arrived in Germany on an overnight flight and had a loose plan to see if I could fit in a tasting before I checked into my hotel in Zeltingen-Rachtig. Max Ferd looked to be open so I set out in that direction arriving at around 11am.

A light was on upstairs but there was no one around and the place seemed otherwise deserted. I knocked on a door but no one seemed to hear. Just as i was about to leave a car pulled up, and out jumper Constantin Richter who assured me yes they were open. Inside, Dr Richter showed me to their tasting room, a simple table with a green tablecloth in a side room on the second floor of the house. I must have been a confusing sight showing up as i did, a red eyed American in a Red Sox hat on no sleep but still looking for a tasting well before noon, but he was very welcoming and we tasted through many of their 24s with a few verticals mixed in. Due to the lack of sleep sharing the highlights only:

2024 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Uralte Reben Grosses Gewachs
from vines planted in 1890s light and bright, both floral yet powerful at only 11% alcohol 92

2024 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese
Candied nose, very racy acid on the palate, but more integrated with more fruit than the 21 we tasted side by side. 91+

2024 Veldenzer Elisenberg Spatlese
A monopole planted on quartz cooler climate planted in 1815 by his great great great grandffather. This is a standout which will be great in the coming years. 93

After this I checked into the hotel and caught up on sleep until dinner. I had purposely stayed close to Zeltinger Hof where I had two great meals and some exceptional wines, and brought back a birth year bottle. The first night I took a flyer for 40 Euros on a 1976 spatlese from the Rheinhessen which went great with a venison burger.

– Day 2 –

Markus Molitor is one of my favorite producers and one of the few places open on Sunday so I had lined this tasting up well in advance. The tasting room is very sleek with a long table located in a historic building adjacent to the winery. Riesling the dog pictured below greets every visitor, and they were very generous with their time and tailored the tasting to my interests. Over three hours we tasted through more than a dozen wines.

Pinot Noir
2022 Haus Klosterberg
A blend of multiple vineyards from mosel valley
9 months on used oak, 22 was a good pinot year. Warm vintage cool nights.
Med ruby, nice rose hips and cranberries, high acidity low alcohol, intense raspberry fruit forward, spicy, tannic, maybe will mellow with some time. Calls for food. 87

2018 Graacher Himmelreich***
Blue slate 24 months in new oak
subtle nose, Med acid med alcohol high tannin has the stuff to go very long, crannberries and cherries, fruit forward still needs time but immense potential 91+

2015 Brauneberger Klostergarten**
Very pronounced nose of orange peel and earth
Palate very acidic very tannic but much more integrated, light and bright, 92+ but not ready

Riesling White Capsules (Dry)
2024 Wehlener Klosterberg Kabinett
Super pronouncedd lychee nose
Very High acidity, slate and lemon, some green notes long finish 91

2012 Wehlener Klosterberg Kabinett
Honey and almonds on the nose. Much drier on the palate but still has intense acidiy
Really cool to see these 12 years apart and how the nose and palate changes. 91+
The 2012 this is more complex and comes across as far more dry.

2020 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese
Med acid med alcohol peach and lychee, long finish 90.

2020 Saarburger Rausch Spatlese
Saar is further south more acidity more mineral driven / growing on red slate
Pale straw, Typical chalky some gunpowder on the nose
Palate med acid low alcohol peaches 90+

2017 Kinheimer Hubertuslay Weisse Kapsel Riesling Auslese***
Powerful dynamic knockout. 94

2020 kinheimer hubertslay auslese**
Complex though not to the level of the 17

Green Capsules (Off-dry)
2018 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese*
Reductive green apple on the nose
Palate more green apple, fairly simple 91

Gold Capsules (Sweet)
2003 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*
Old vines, some 120+ yrs and ungrafted.
Citrus and mild honey, med acid, so mellow. 92

2021 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese*
Needs time to gain complexity.

2005 Zeltinger Deutschherrenberg Riesling Auslese* - Edition 18
East facing, high iron site.
Deep gold, Dill and orange peel on the nose, very sweet perhaps a bit lacking in acidity. Caramel, very long finish. 93+

Will post the second half of my trip notes when I have time to write them up.

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Sounds like a great trip. Well done! Looking forward to second half.

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Thanks for the report! I am off to the Mosel in a few days (as long as I can get my passport renewed!). Our third year in a row going the last week of December. I love the Mosel this time of year.

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The color on that spat is incredible - really close to an old Sauternes. Glad to hear it was still in good shape for 40 euro!

Excellent start, Ben, and great notes—thanks so much for posting. Looking forward to more impressions from the other 3 stops :slight_smile:

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On to part two.

Two wines I forgot to mention from day 1 – On Saturday night before dinner I headed up to Traben-Trarbach for a few glasses of wine at Die Mosel wine bar. I had a very impressive Daniel Vollenweider troken and a Martin Mullen Auslese with a roasted pimento pepper app.

2018 Daniel Vollenweider wolfer reserve riesling troken
Wolfer Reserve Trocken. Apples and some petrol on the nose. very linear and intense, slate and with some vegetal notes on a very long finish.

2018 Martin Mullen Kröver Letterlay Auslese
Deep lemonRich nose of honey and peaches maybe the most pronounced sweet nose i’ve ever tasted, forces itself into your nostrils as you drink. Palate more honey, red delicious apple. Has a crazy umami piney thing going i have never tasted in riesling, extremely long finish. Still young, will be crazy complex given another few decades. 94+

Sunday morning I hiked up into Wehlener Sonnenuhr. which provided some perspective on how large and crazy steep these vineyards are, and how difficult the framing must be.




Interestingly as it was conveyed to me, the lower part of the vineyard is the steepest with primarily blue slate. Higher up it flips to more clay, so counterintuitively the most complex wines come from the lower parts, rather than the higher elevations.

After Molitor I stopped by the Rieslinghaus shop in Bernkastel and bought a few WinePorn bottles from Julian Haart and Max Kilburg as well as a 2005 Willi Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel auction bottling. The owner was nice enough to pour me a few tastings of things she had open including a 2005 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel. Mild and unassuming on the nose but has great acid, honey and peaches on the palate, light on its feet, 92

Monday I started my day back in Traben-Trarbach at Martin Müllen.
This was a 11am start and I was met by Susanne who informed me that Jonas had been in a (very minor) traffic accident so Martin was off taking care of that. She started me off on a few wines, soon after Martin appeared and tasted me through a few more, and then Jonas arrived and took over the remainder of the tasting. We got into a pretty deep philosophical discussion on the the comparative advantages of the American and European lifestyles, bottom line I think is that the grass is always greener.

I find that Martin’s wines have a trademark level of savory extraction and intensity. Their emphasis on extended gentle press is likely what gives these wines that umami intensity I got from the auslese the night before. This characteristic was fairly consistent across the board. Due to the political discussion my notes were a bit cursory so sharing the standouts.

2022 Trarbacher Hühnerberg Kabinett
Very pronounced pear and peach, palate med acid med alcohol more peaches, 91+

Krover Paradies Riesling Spatlese**
Deep lemon, restrained nose, on the palate rich lemon and pear long finish, 93 - purchased a bottle.

2020 Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese
Med gold, mild lemon on the nose, palate has very intense peach and white flowers, long finish, 91

2020 Trarbacher Hühnerberg Auslese
Pronounced nose of lychee and pineapple. Palate vey high acid, peach, pineapple, long finish, 93+
All in all, these are pretty serious wines.

Not to be outdone, I headed next to Brauneberg to meet Stefan Steinmetz.
Over three hours we tasted through dozens of wines, this was a wild ride which kept building. I have had his riesling before but I am still a bit in awe of his intensity and ambition to redefine what the Mosel can do. He tasted me through syrah, pinot meunier and chenin blanc, and blinded me on a merlot.

2024 Wintricher Geierslay GW
Med lemon, lemon on the nose, palate high acid medium alcohol lemon curd very intense. 93+

2024 Neumagener Rosengärtchen Riesling GG
Pale lemon, leaner than the Wintricher Geierslay, more lemon but much more mineral driven 92+

2024 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay GG
Med lemon, vanilla nose, finesse but also rich and delicious, very lush and well balanced, 93

2024 Dhroner Grosser Hengelberg GG
From a monopole vineyard, dill on the nose, palate rich lemon, super intense and concentrated, very long finish. 94

2024 Piesporter Treppchen ‘Von den Terrassen’
Less pronounced nose, very powerful acidity, a touch of sweetness to balance it out, 92

2021 Dhron Hofberger Reserve
Medium lemon, dill again on the nose. Palate lemon vanila, orange peel, grapefruit white pepper very complex 93+

2024 Dhroner Grosser Hengelberg Monopollage Reserve
Med lemon, nose is a ringer for white burg, palate is really nicely balanced and integrated tart lemon and apple peel, delicious 94+ my favorite of the whites.

Kabinetts:
Stefan remarked that he feels like too often kabinetts are picked before phenolic ripeness - the challenge to ge that right combination of acidity, low alcohol, phenolic ripeness. His wines toe this line really well and manage to be both rich and flavorful while maintaining that kabi lightness I love. He mentioned he actually prefers spatlese to kabinetts but they’re hard to sell.

2024 Wintricher Großer Herrgott Kabinett
The latest harvested vineyard. Reductive nose, nice fullness of texture on the palate, good blend of acidity and roundness from the fruit 92+

2024 Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett
Lower acid than the Wintricher Großer Herrgott but with the same level of acidity, a bit unbalanced at present but still very nice. 91+ Stefan noted that Juffer usually needs more time to balance out.

2024 Wintricher Ohligsberg Kabinett
Pale lemon, high acid low alcohol, white flowers, better integrated than the Brauneberger Juffer 92

2024 Wintricher Geierslay Kabinett
Reductive lemony nose, very nice refined texture very long finish, 95*

2024 Piesporter Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
The same parcel as the Piesporter GG but harvested earlier. Med lemon, palate very high acid, powerful, apple very long finish, almost to a spatlese level of sweetness.

2022 Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Spatlese
Lemon bordering on gold. Med acid, ripe pear and asian pear 95

2025 Brauneberger Juffer Auslese goldkapsule (from barrel)
Great example of a sweet wine with high ripeness made from grapes without botrytis.

2025 Wintricher Geierslay (from barrel)
Rich and delicious this will be awesome

2023 Pinot Meunier
No formal notes on this and some of the others below but this was probably because i was still trying to wrap my head around 100% whole cluster pinot meunier grown in the mosel.

2023 Pinot Noir
Cherries on the nose Palate is rich, high acid med alcohol elegant, very tasty fruit forward long finish.

2022 Hofberg Pinot Noir
Deep ruby, smoky reductive red fruit nose palate high acid med alcohol raspberries allspice, elegant but will benefit from more time.

2018 Basilisk Noir
A blend of Merlot and dornfelder planted in slate

2024 Syrah
Deep ruby, peppery nose, peppery palate high acid high tannin low alcohol black cherries, more pepper this will age a long time.

2024 Pinot Blanc
Nice but as is my general feeling with pinot blanc it might benefit from time to gain some complexity.

2025 Paulinsberg Chenin Blanc
Aged 1/3 in Stockinger and 2/3 used barrels from Meursault. My only note is get some.

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Now I’m just bummed Sammie didn’t email me back for a tasting at Gunther Steinmetz. Next time I’m calling them. Awesome notes!

I just saw that @Jeff_M1 also did a post last week with pictures from the lineup from Marting Mullen and Donnhoff (where I bumped into him) so I’ll keep my final day notes from Donnhoff relatively brief. Sascha tasted us through all the 2024s a few back vintages and a 2021 Eiswein over several hours.

A few general notes from the trip. While Mosel producers were generally positive about the 2024 vintage, Donnhoff was a clear exception. Due to very bad frost their production in 2024 was limited, and 2025 sounds like it was not much better.

There was an undercurrent of competition between the Mosel and producers in other parts of Germany as well as between those in the VDP and those who are not members. All of this adds to the complexity of decoding wines between terms like GGs, Ortswein and troken, not to mention star ratings. Because Germans don’t drink much German wine many producers are heavily dependent on exports, and those like Donnhoff which have diversified exports to many countries been least effected by general downturn in consumption and tariffs.

There is also some interesting experimentation going on in some areas, though nowhere to the extent of Stefan Steinmetz. Case in point, Donnhoff is now producing some chardonnay grown in the clay soils of Roxheimer Höllenpfad, but when I mentioned that Stefan was experimenting with German Chenin grown in slate, Sascha almost fell out of his chair. That said, I’m happy for Donnhoff to keep doing what they’re doing, I will continue to drink their Kabinetts any day of the week.

2024 Chardonnay S (Single Vineyard)
Med lemon reductive and bready nose. High acid med alcohol vanilla lemon lime almonds short finish, 88

2024 Weissburgunder Trocken
Pale lemon, Very restrained nose med acid low alcohol, lemon peel a bit of vanilla, 89

2024 Tonschiefer Trocken
Med lemon, really nice nose of grapefruit and peach and some vanilla, palate high acid med alcohol, lime, peach, medium finish, 90

2024 Schlossböckelheim Trocken
Med lemon, vanilla nose, palate high acid med alcohol lemon, lime, grassy, more round and mineral long finish, 90+

2024 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Trocken
Med lemon, muted lemon cream nose, Palate med acid low alcohol, bitter lemon, 88

2024 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Trocken
Med lemon, creamy nose, high acid, grapefruit, long finish 89

2015 Roxheimer Höllenpfad troken
Deep lemon, vanilla and lemon peel on the nose. Palate high acid med alcohol very intense lime zest and orange peel mineral finish a bit too acid driven for my palate, 90

2016 Dönnhoff Felsenberg GG
Palate high acid med+ alcohol, bready and some bitter grapefruit notes on the finish. Still drinking young.2

2024 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett
Pale lemon, sweet lemon nose, palate delicious lemon candy medium finish really nicely integrated 91+

2024 Niederhauser Klamm Kabinett
Somewhat reductive nose, palate sweet key lime medium finish 89+

2024 Oberhäuser Brücke Spatlese
Pale lemon, funky nutty boytrized nose, palate high acid med alcohol almonds and apricots long finish 91+

2001 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel
Nose is a punch in the face of honey and orange palate is very textured almost gritty, grassy, caramel and orange marmelade long finish 93

2021 Eiswein (Auction)
Extremely high acid low alcohol powerhouse with an everlasting finish, 96

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Yeah I don’t have a ton of experience with older wines like that but I keep chasing them and this one definitely paid off. Still totally alive and got better in the glass.

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Sounds like you had a pretty good experience at Mullen though, impressed you got 20 bottles back.

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Thanks Robert, your previous posts about travel in the region definitely helped inform my trip.

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I had my vin garde valise for the first 12 and had around 9 wine skin bubble wraps for my other checked suitcase. I overpacked my clothes so I could layer the bottles to protect them and then had a carry on I brought back for duty free shopping or any excess clothes.

Customs was a breeze at LAX. I was slightly nervous about having over the 2 bottle limit and was prepared to pay any taxes, tariffs, etc. Got through with no issues. Ready to head back and stockpile more rieslings.

I think you mean Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, not Wehlener Sonnenuhr.

If I recall correctly i think this was mentioned in reference to the Max Ferd Richter Uralte Reben vines from Wehlener Sonnenuhr, though many of the photos above are likely from Zeltinger Sonnenuhr since I kind of circled around and wasn’t sure where one stops and the other begins.

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Said above, but really fantastic snapshot, Ben—one of the threads of the year for me. And if you’d told me 8 years ago I’d say that about a Riesling subject, I’d have told you that you were off your rocker :smiley:

Sounds like an epic weekend indeed. And yes, those tastings straight off the overnight flight can be rough! It helps a lot if you’ve gotten a bit of sleep. Otherwise, I typically have no interest in alcohol. Although adrenaline does a lot of work, if you know you only have a limited amount of time.

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Thanks for the clarification. That might be true of the “ancient vines” from Max Ferd. Richter in Wehlener Sonnenuhr, but much of the vineyard rises slowly up the slope. In contrast, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr starts steep.

Thanks for the notes. I was in the Mosel in August. A couple quick takeaways:

I loved the 2024 vintage. Cool, classic, beautiful wines.
These guys are all making excellent wine - Steinmetz, Molitor, Richter, Loersch, Blees Ferber, Thanisch, JJ Prum, Clemens Busch.

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What a great trip, well done and written. Thanks for this.
The vineyard roads from Zeltingen to Bernkastel are awesome.
Did you get the chance to try Stefan’s palomino? Have been curious.

I stayed in Zeltingen on my last trip. The Zeltinger Hof is well worth the trip, but there’s some super fun restaurants along the river.

Great notes - thanks!