I found this a charming little piece and not what I expected from the title. Wines discussed and evaluated are Gattinara, Gheme, and Ferrando,
Carema “White Label” . The highest rated is also their “best value”, a wine I’m not familiar with, the 2009 Mamete Prevostini, Valtellina Superiore Sassella ($30.00).
It was available at K&L and I’m going to take it out for a spin.
That Mamete Prevostini cantina is one I got IMMENSE shit for talking about ten years ago on eBob: basically along the wines of “If we’ve never heard of it how can it be any good?”. Fabulous wines.
Heading to Valtellina at the end of May. Looking forward to it!
Good article; thanks for sharing.
Northern Piedmont is a treasure trove.
We’ve come a long way, baby. And you’d actually enjoy dinner and wine with Eric.
I’ve met Eric a couple of times. He has written nice things about our Champagne program.
Thanks for the input from Roberto, and the intelligent comments in this thread.
Yeah, i love mountain nebbiolo and carema has long been a favorite. Nice piece and nice recognition for some under the radar producers. they make great food wines, this whole category.
Sounds like a wine dinner theme!
Nice to see Orsolani mentioned.
Many of these wines are not going to be everyone’s cup of tea. But still, nice to see them get some exposure.
I’ve really been enjoying Asimov’s articles. Exploring relatively undiscovered wine regions, with a commitment to near-Everyman priced wines. Of course his taste is subjective, but who’s isn’t?
I’ve never had a Valtellina wine, but love Nebbiolo. Looking forward to discovery.
Only people who love Nebbiolo.
Thught he might have mentioned Lessona
and this winery http://www.proprietasperino.it/en/history.html
Then You’ll want to try a Sforzato a passito made from Nebbiolo from Valtellina
I like Northern Piemonte nebbiolos, but agree they may not widely appeal. I generally find them ‘bonier’ than their famous Southern cousins. There is some barrique, but also plenty of Slavonian botti. I suppose they recognise the wines could get easily swamped by over-oaking.
I’m reminded of Tom Blach’s comments about basic red burgundy, that it is arguably of more appeal to the purist. Counter-intuitive perhaps, but I can see the same argument that the north gives nebbiolo laid bare.
Wait, so if one does not like these Nebbiolos, then one doesn’t love Nebbiolo? Surely, there is some room here for liking versions from some regions and not others?
Can you clarify Gary? I read the article & was intrigued. What is it about these wines that you think might make them difficult for people to appreciate?