WINE DINNER IN GUANGZHOU - (28/5/2026)
Glad to finally catch up with Louis in Guangzhou after missing him the last few times in Hong Kong. He kindly organised a dinner with his Guangzhou friends, and it reminded me again how wine is ultimately about the people as much as the bottles. Funnily enough when I chatted the person who booked the superb meal at Lingnan Restaurant in Rosewood Guangzhou, we realised we had both known Louis since 2018, back when FWE was still a tiny shop in Sheung Wan. Time flies but as I always say, people make the place and always glad to meet fellow wine lovers on my travels.
- 2023 Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Beguines - France, Champagne
My contribution, most correctly guessed as grower but thought it was a BdB because of the minerality. Really open-knit, both precise and gulpabl and cleaner than previous recent iterations that I have tried. Very complete tonight and a crowd favourite. (94 pts.) - 2007 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune - France, Alsace
Brought for a friend. Put it in a decanter to hide the bottle shape but unsurprisingly most still arrived at Riesling because of the petroleum and honey notes, a friend managed to nail CSH. Initially a little tired but became fresher with air, very similar to the outstanding bottle I had last year. Pristine, saline and a superb acidic backbone. My WOTN together with the friend that nailed it as CSH. Unfortunately my last bottle after being worried about the previous bottle that was slightly oxidised. (95 pts.) - 2018 Dureuil-Janthial Rully 1er Cru Le Meix Cadot Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te Chalonnaise, Rully 1er Cru
I guessed a warm vintage like ’12 Meursault, but not for the first time I was fooled by this producer as a Meursault. Attractive ripe, slightly tropical fruit with a slight cinnamon spice, but agreed with a friend that the Grésigny has better length and depth. Some alcohol from the vintage also showed. (92 pts.) - 2021 Domaine Les Astrelles Bourgogne Côte d’Or “Les Combes” - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Côte d’Or
Good depth for its level but too ripe and candied for both the vintage and my preference. (88 pts.) - 2010 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Clearly a more masculine and savoury expression of Burgundy so I guessed Gevrey, and the open-knit nature made me think '17. Slightly burly at first but unfurled beautifully to show the balance and poise of '10. Would recommend a lot of air for this. (92 pts.) - 2014 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Others guessed Burgundy but I didn’t get any Burgund on this. Slight brett and savoury nature made me guess northern Rhone but some greenness made me agree with a friend that this was Bordeaux. I always miss Clos Rougeard in such tastings but when someone else mentioned Loire it clicked and thankfully I nailed '14 Poyeux after. Similar to my previous impressions, a cooler rendition of the wine that was both elegant and youthful with a long way to go. (93 pts.) - 1999 Miani Friuli Merlot - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli
VA and sweet fruit made it obvious that it was Italian but while everyone else guessed Sangiovese I thought this was a modern Nebbiolo so guessed '98 Gaja. Slightly modern but acceptable for me despite the showy oaky nature. Some plumminess but not too over the top. Enjoyed this with air and at a cooler temperature. (92 pts.)
WINE DINNER IN HK - (31/5/2026)
Dinner with the usual folks that I meet whenever I am in HK, great line-up of wines as usual.
- 2020 Roses de Jeanne / CĂ©dric Bouchard Champagne HL/R20 - France, Champagne
Disgorged 2024. Still a little too young and coarse but very good depth and intensity. (93 pts.) - NV Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Vignes de Montgueux - France, Champagne
Quite red-fruited for a BdB, more approachable and rounder than previous experiences with this producer. Wasn’t far behind the Bouchard. (91 pts.) - 2007 Hospices de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières Cuvée Philippe le Bon - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Guessed Meursault from a warmer year like '03 or '05, a white Burgundy at its peak with secondary notes of honey and tropical fruit. Very enjoyable in an old-school style. (92 pts.) - 2018 Pierre Boisson Meursault Les Grands Charrons - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Meursault
Initially guessed PYCM Meursault from a warm year like '15 but switched to Puligny. Quite a contrast to the old-school HdB previously, this was reductive with ripe, tensile citrus fruit. Punched above its village level but warmer vintage showed in terms of alcohol. (92 pts.) - 2019 Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Champenois Cuvée des Grands Côtés Vieilles Vignes Rouge Ambonnay - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
Wow this was so Burgundian but when revealed not to be Burgundy I was kicking myself for not getting it (went for Kusuda instead). Attractive and well-judged oak with a deep and inviting nose, palate had restrained, lightly spiced dark cherry fruit with superb length. (94 pts.) - 2019 Rudolf Fürst Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs - Germany, Franken
Very good in its own right but unfortunately overshadowed by the superb Egly for me. Lighter and more airy than the Egly alongside, attractive sweet red fruit. (92 pts.) - 2019 Domaine de la Rochette (Jacques Tatasciore) Pinot Noir Les Rissieux - Switzerland, Three Lakes, Neuchâtel
My contribution. Opened and corked back a day in advance after my previous experience was quite dark and unyielding, but this was much more approachable. Quite a bit of VA on the nose that was quite divisive but provided good lift for me, palate had sweet kirsch fruit that could have passed off as a Grenache. Nice wine but not sure if it’s worth the market price. (92 pts.) - 1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Guessed '98 Gevrey because of the masculine, tannic frame. Immense concentration with darker fruit, very powerful but structured and closed - similar to my previous experience with a Bouchard La Romanee. (91 pts.) - 2021 Pierre-Olivier Garcia Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Herbues - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Always impressed whenever this producer comes up. Very perfumed, lifted nose from the baie par baie method. Pretty red fruit on the palate with excellent purity and concentration (especially for '21). Approachable now. (92 pts.) - 2010 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Guessed top Vosne but thought it was a lighter vintage like '06 (perhaps because of the village level) but when revealed to be Chambolle quite clear that it was Roumier. Perfectly proportioned, so seamless and transparent. Truly an iron fist in a velvet glove. Wouldn’t wait on these as it is so delicious now. (94 pts.) - 2011 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
I guessed '90s Nebbiolo - unfortunately another advanced Cappellano. NR (flawed) - 1996 Dalla Valle Maya - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
Brought for a friend. Most guessed Bordeaux from the '00s, still very youthful with appealing dark, slightly sweet fruit without being over the top. Sometimes new-world wines fail to develop complexity with age but this had classy, seductive fruit but a lovely restraint. Always a big fan of this producer. (94 pts.) - 2015 Weingut Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Auslese - Germany, Rheinhessen
My extra for dessert. Rich and layered but as noticed during the Keller dinner last week, the sweets are less of a step up over other producers compared to their dry wines. Still very enjoyable mind despite clearly being from a warmer vintage. (93 pts.)
