So. The great quadrennial Cellar Depressurization has come and gone.
I need to first express how truly lucky I am to have the best parents any son could ask for. My mom and dad opened their home and worked right alongside me with all the planning and all the cleanup and were legion in greeting and hosting all my friends who came. I cannot express my thanks in enough ways or in enough volume.
I owe a deep debt of gratitude to my friends Tran, Gunnar, Nick and Heather for all their help throughout the day as well. Tran, in particular, went so far above and beyond in creating beautiful station prints for each station. Gunnar and Nick were very fine to assist with cleanup and setup, and Heather helped me in so many ways throughout the day, not least rescuing some of the almost-drained bottles to be sure I got my taste.
A very special thanks to many, many friends who traveled from far and wide to be part of things. In particular, my friend Mike made the flight from Frankfurt and environs to be with us. I think he wins for “furthest away”.
The table cuts looked like this:
THE DELICATE FLOWER–VIOGNIER
2008 Francois Villard Condrieu Terrasses du Palat (Condrieu)
2010 Sandhill Small Lots Viognier (BC)
2002 Daniel Lenko Viognier Icewine (Ontario)
2004 Chateau Grillet (Condrieu)
2011 Calera Viognier Mt. Harlan (Cali)
2006 Calera Viognier Mt. Harlan Dessert (Cali)
2009 Yves Gangloff Condrieu (Condrieu)
2009 Yalumba Virgilius Viognier (Australia)
2007 Yalumba Wrattonbully Botrytis Viognier (Australia)
THE DUMOL GIRLS (and other California Chards)
2009 DuMol Chloe
2009 DuMol Isobel
2009 DuMol Clare
2009 Alpha Omega
2009 Peter Michael La Carriere
2009 Marcassin 3 Sisters
2009 Aubert Ritchie
THE KUTCH VERTICAL
2006 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
2007 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
2009 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir (none made in 2008)
2010 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
2011 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
2012 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
2013 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
2014 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir (Unreleased)
SUCCULENT SUDUIRAUT
1970 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
1988 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
2001 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
2003 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
2005 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
2006 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
2007 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
2009 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
2011 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes
CAB FAIR
2007 Hidden Bench Estates La Brunante
2010 Sojourn Cellars Home Ranch
2004Feather (oops, sorry for the mislabelling of this one!)
2005 Chateau La Lagune
2009 Black Hills Nota Bene
2008 Quivet Cellars Kenefick Ranch
2011 Pearl Morissette Cuvee Persephone Cab Franc
2000 Chateau Kirwan
RED ROSES
2008 Jamet Cote Rotie
2009 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir
2006 Navarro Structura Ultima Malbec
2000 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanee
2002 Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin
2007 Beaucastel
2001 I Faustino Gran Reserva
2004 Quintarelli Valpolicella
1984 Kalin Cellars Pinot Noir Cuvee DD
WORTHY WHITES I
2011 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc
2012 Moss Wood Chardonnay
2010 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Les Clos
1998 Kracher #9 NV Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese
2006 Beaucastel Vieilles Vignes Roussanne
2004 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Riesling
2010 Domaine Bott Geyl Schlossberg Riesling
WORTHY WHITES II
2007 Smith-Haut Lafitte Blanc
2010 Grosset Riesling
2007 Luneau-Papin Muscadet Le D’Or
1997 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux
2009 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux
2013 Brundlmayer Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling
2002 Lelarge-Pugeot Champagne
2007 Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet Les Grands Ruchottes
MEURSY MEURSY ME
2008 Bouchard Genevrieres
2010 D’Angerville Santenots
2010 F&L Pillot Caillerets
2011 Roche de Bellene Charmes
2009 Domaine Leflaive Sous Les Dos D’Ane
2012 Domaine de Montille Perrieres
2001 Roulot Luchets
2013 Lucien Muzard Les Meix Chavaux
2012 Remi Jobard Les Poruzots-Dessus
2011 Charles Buisson Bouches-Cheres
THE FINAL FRONTIER (grapes almost no one has tried)
2014 Domaine des Molardes Chasselas Reserve
2004 Gravner Amphyllo Ribolla Gialla
2012 Pfeffinger Scheurebe Spatlese
2013 Moon Curser Tannat
2010 Malivoire Marechal Foch
2008 Ronchi Cialli Schiopettino
2004 Kracher Traminer #3 NV TBA
2009 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance Muscat de Frontignan
2009 Raul Perez Sketch Albarino
2009 Magrez-Aruga Koshu (Japanese wine from Bernard Magrez)
2012 Bodegas Buenavista/Veleta Vijirieja
MY HERO—Wines for my dad
2007 Olivier Leflaive Corton Charlemagne
2009 Paul Pernot Batard Montrachet
2011 Maison Ilan Chambertin Aux Charmes Hauts
2006 Poggiotone Brunello di Montalcino
1988 Chateau Haut Brion
2011 Casanera Ramanegra Cabernet Sauvignon
1999 Bouchard Pommard Les Rugiens
2001 Chateau Coutet
1994 Broadbent Vintage Port
FAMILY TREE (5 generations of winemaking)
2014 Schug Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (Walter Schug Winemaster)
1994 Phelps Cabernet (Craig Williams—apprenticed under Schug)
2008 Turley Dusi Zinfandel (Ehren Jordan—apprenticed under Williams)
2010 Rivers Marie Napa Cabernet (Thomas Rivers Brown—apprenticed under Jordan)
2011 Quivet Cellars Pellet Vineyard (Mike Smith—apprenticed under TRB)
2012 Rudius Cabernet Sauvignon (Jeff Ames—apprenticed under TRB)
2012 Turley Pesenti Zinfandel (Tegan Passalacqua—apprenticed under Jordan)
NORTHERN CHAR-D (Ontario’s best)
2009 Pearl Morissette Cuvee Dix-Neuvieme
2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grands Clos Chard
2012 Bachelder Saunders Chard
2013 Closson Chase Closson Vineyard Chard
2011 Southbrook Poetica Chard
2012 Hidden Bench Tete de Cuvee Chard
2013 Norman Hardy Cuvee L Chard
For anyone tracking, I have to add treatment of many of these bottles. To my best recollection, I do so here:
2006 Beaucastel Roussanne VV—opened day before and left uncorked, no slow-ox
2008 Jamet Cote Rotie – opened day before and left uncorked, no slow-ox
2009 Littorai Savoy Pinot – opened day before and left uncorked, no slow-ox
2011 Pearl Morissette Cuvee Persephone – opened night before and left uncorked, no slow-ox
2004 Quintarelli Valpolicella – opened 2 days before and decant
2007 Chateau Beaucastel – opened 2 days before, slow-oxed one day before
2009 Leflaive Meursault Sous Les Dos D’Ane—opened 1 day before and recorked
2012 De Montille Meursault Perrieres – opened one day before and slow-oxed
2011 Roche de Bellene Meursault Charmes – opened day before and recorked
2013 Kutch McDougall – opened day before and recorked
2014 Kutch McDougall – opened day before and recorked (I’d forgotten I wanted to open all these at exactly the same time, ah well…)
2001 Chateau Coutet – opened day before and left uncorked, no slow-ox
2005 Chateau La Lagune – opened 2 days before, slow-ox night before, decanter day of
1988 Chateau Haut-Brion – Opened day before and recorked
1994 Broadbent port – opened day before and recorked
1999 De Montille Pommard Rugiens – opened 2 days before, double-decant and slow-ox day before, decanted day of
2000 Rouget Vosne Romanee – opened day before and recorked
2002 Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin – opened day before and recorked
2007 Olivier Leflaive CC – opened day before and left uncorked, no slow-ox
2009 Pernot Batard – opened day before and recorked
2012 Remi Jobard Meursault Poruzots-Dessus – opened day before and recorked
2007 Hidden Bench La brunante – opened day before and slow-oxed
2013 Brundlmayer Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling – opened day before and “recorked”
2011 Maison Ilan Charmes Chambertin Aux Charmes Haut – decanted day of
2006 Poggiotone Brunello – decanted day of
2000 Chateau Kirwan – Decanted day of
2011 Chateau Suduiraut – opened 2 days before and decanted day before
1988, 2001, 2005, 2007 and 2009 Suduiraut – opened 1 day before and slow-oxed
2011 Charles Buisson Meursault Bouches-Cheres – Decanted day of.
2009 Kutch McDougall Pinot – decanted day of (only out of necessity, snapped the cork and put it in my narrowest-mouthed decanter
1998 Kracher #9 NV TBA—opened day before and slow-oxed
As is my usual custom at these things, I am providing my notes in order of my own tasting. I did taste the first 10 the night before, and I’m still not done, but have about 77 of ‘em to get posted now. With much thanks to participants for reading the rules and with further thanks to a couple of my wardens, I will only end up missing tasting the 2004 Kracher, I think.
I really must say I was extraordinarily fortunate. I think there was only one truly corked wine (although there’s some debate about that with a second that I will discuss later). It’s too bad that the one had to be that one, but….and perhaps 2-3 oxidized (I have to try some of these to confirm other tasters’ declarations on ‘em). Out of 109 wines, that is not a terrible batting average.
So here we go…
[Night before]
2012 Domaine De Montille Meursault Perrieres
On opening, lovely hazelnut and brazil nut scents. Nougat and underlying flinty sniffs too. A wine of great class and energy. Fills the mouth with sparky lemon and stone leads, with more nuts and ginger in the back. Such tremendous, elegant length, this is a stunner of which good examples will go out at least 20 years. #11
1988 Chateau Suduiraut
From full. Orange marmalade with traces of baked treacle. It has orange follow, but not a lot else yet, length but a rather shallow version—almost like the vintage mismatched with their usual riper profile. 2 days’ air and near-empty open doesn’t change my impression—it’s still a very linear Sud
2005 Chateau Suduiraut
From half. This is more like it, orange intermingled with rich coconut and the botrytis in play—a sweet Vidalia onion side. Mm—like drinking candy, man. Soft and supple and pure vanilla with orange and maple glances. Real maple sugar at the back. A little lacking in acidity, but so much pleasure here. I know this was a favourite of many people, and for me this may rival the Climens from this year. #7
2002 Daniel Lenko Viognier Icewine
He only made this once. Daniel told me it hurt too much to see so many of the grapes die before they could be picked. This is maybe part of history now, as I’m not sure the winery is still open. At any rate, apricot and super-ripe peach—super-ripe—assault the schnozz. Something of guava underneath. Yowza, I don’t think it’s budged an inch from 8 or so years ago when I last had this. Still thick as anything. Peach cobbler, even a pie note, but now has just that touch of nut finish and a tiny back-lace of acidity. Still very good in its style.
2007 Chateau Beaucastel
Meat and bacon bits, very dark and ripe cassis and plum fruit beneath. To taste, a quite thick and rich example, there’s still a brambly side to the tangy plum sauce, some soy and also some heat on this. Still gangly, but not sure if that’s due to youth or, as I suspect, due to the nature of the wine in this particular vintage, which has presented as a very big one in any of the regional wines I’ve tried.
2009 Domaine Leflaive Meursault Sous Les Dos D’Ane
Still that abundant gunflint and bit of sulphur that characterizes a lot of DL. Really on the matchstick side. This shows an initial round feel but quickly grabs at your tongue with lemon-lime, stone and hint of hazelnut. Short-ish finish, though, will be interested to see others’ notes with a day’s air (I wasn’t able to get back to this, sadly)
1998 Kracher #9 Nouvelle Vague Chardonnay TBA
Colour is darkest topaz. Apricot frangipane bouquet, some buttered figs too. Super-honeyed, and it fans out in the mouth with crème brulee all the way and a buttertart finish. And the finish is so light. These things are marvels, and this is the first one I’ve been able to try after treating it to some air. I know a lot of people adored this #12
2007 Hidden Bench La Brunante
My last of their top-end meritage from this year. Green pepper and black pepper scents, but not offensive. Sort of resolved and fitting and there’s plenty of dark cocoa and black cherry too. This does have fruit—cherry and raspberry—and plenty of cedar and wood varnish, but is still growly on opening, needs yet time. I’m glad I opened in advance. I’m still not sure about this vintage making it in the long run, it’s missing the promise of full integration, but I do have some left to try and will report duly.
2005 Chateau La Lagune
Even with a day open, this is still surly. Swirling brings up some berries, touch of tar, violets and sandalwood a little. A vin de garde for sure, palate finds very little fruit still, good depth of structure and tannins. Should emerge as a classicist’s Bordeaux, just give it lots and lots of time. Will re-check this too.
2008 Jamet Cote Rotie
This does smell like Cote Rotie—florals and bacon and a lovely strawberry essence and light leather. Still a baby for sure—dynamite pickup, though, with aromatic follow-throughs, adding raspberry and bilberry. A real fine meaty tang and very bracing acidity. Especially for the vintage, good stuff with some future.
[day of]
2008 Marquis D’Angerville Meursault Santenots
Tropical scents here—dragon fruit and papaya curl around mineral and tick of mustard. This may be getting to tipping, but it is still very dry and forceful with apple and baked bread notes at the back. Great to try one of these (I was told by a couple others later that it had, indeed, faded)
1988 Chateau Haut Brion
So here’s the thing. This has been the pride of my stable for over 25 years and, really, the first bottle of connoisseur’s wine that I bought (I was 22 at the time, I think). And when I opened it……oh no….don’t say so….is it corked? Well….I capped it and then dad and I shared a glass in the early morning. That glass did give some stuff—pencil shavings, slightly sweet raspberry mix with heady cocoa. And to taste, it can be said that no one makes anything like this. Dry and cool and smooth all at the same time, and I can detect red fruit, cocoa and slight minerality. It all says “Graves”. But it’s not truly awesome. And that’s because once air got at it, it did indeed prove to be slightly corked. My only regret is that I didn’t get to share what I’m sure this truly is with more people.
1970 Chateau Suduiraut
46 years old, eh? And gosh, is this playing? It is! Glances of quince and, eventually, vanilla and peach. Lovely. And le gout, it is OK—past its peak, yes, but still fine with treacle, tasty peach and orange and all within a very stately structure. A very cool experience that was so rewarding in its way.
2009 Yalumba Virgilius Viognier
Initially toasty, then gets at honey and pear. This is sturdy, but it has flow and energy. There is definitely oak, but it does work.
2006 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
So, greeting and talking with so many friends lengthened what I’d planned as a 15-minute slam-through into about an hour, but I did taste all these in sequence and after what I’d estimate was about 2.5 hours’ air time. This oldest example shows cherry and raspberry nose with a definite cardamom secondary. It’s ripe and big, as you’d expect early on. Macerated cherry and what I’d describe as some sweet red pepper. A touch hot at the back.
2007 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
You are already seeing a more “complete” presentation—some cinnamon braces resolved strawberry and cherry. Tasty this is—very tasty—and in a good spot. A lighter style, but all of one piece. Raspberry, wild strawberry and tingle of citrus aftertaste.
2009 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
Wow—what a nose! Bursting with fruit and baking spices, it won’t let go and keeps coruscating through a kaleidoscope of scents. No less dans la bouche, where red berry, cocoa, light backhit of citrus and a real controlled juiciness along with length all make for a very fine effort. In a grand place right now, and probably my current fave of this version of Kutch. #9
2010 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
Also spiced cherry and strawberry and some of that citrus making it into the nostrils. Leaner than the others, grapefruit and raspberry mix for me. Still needs a bit of time, but quite promising.
2011 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
Super-fragrant, pungent with sweet roasted herbs and strawberry, along with citrus and a light dash of mocha. Palate finds this dynamic, plenty of tension and snap with raspberry, pink grapefruit, boysenberry and lots of fine earth. This is really good too, and has come a ton of a way from my last taste—I am frankly surprised at how ready for business it is. #18
2012 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
Citrus and cola/root beer here, with black cherry underneath, this is still fairly primary, with replays and some almost-anise. It is juicy. I think I have some saved and will be curious to see how it is after some days.
2013 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
Another fragrant beastie, for sure. Citrus and expressive multi-berry fruit. Tangy, chewy and very vibrant on the tongue, this shows flashes of minerality and earthiness but never sacrificing any of that to the driving red fruit. I do think this may end up being the best of ‘em with a few more years to resolve.
2014 Kutch McDougall Pinot Noir
Nose is slammin! All sorts of fruit, some citrus, pomegranate, some spices, roots and earth. Just going and going. To taste, it is, of course, extremely primary, crunchy and with the fruit in the background to tons of structure and energy. You will need to be more patient with these than with any other of Jamie’s wines to date, I think. My own hesitant advice is leave 6 years.
2002 Lelarge-Pugeot Champagne
Terrific bouquet, fresh-baked bread and plenty of white fruit. Snappy and very flavourful, with lots of lemon drive and a youthful exuberance about it. Quite a joy to consume this, and it had many fans.
2009 Paul Pernot Batard Montrachet
Well, the aroma—I don’t want to stop sniffing. Fantastic almost-luscious pear, matchstick and gingerbread. Those things appear on the palate and it’s a long enough wine, but it also seems a trifle sedate—nothing wrong with the bottle, it’s just not expressive and authoritative in the way I would expect from Batard. This is good, don’t get me wrong, but in looking up tasting notes for research, I’d noted that another taster said they prefer the Bienvenue from this year, and I think I agree. I remember giving it a 94 at the winery 5 years ago. I’d probably be closer to 87 today (remembering that I am a very very tough grader when I use points).
2001 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets
Bouquet of lemon meringue pie…and so much else lurking underneath. This is simply sterling to taste—so much life still—lemon and mineral and the Roulot steel. And the thing of it is, it all comes together in a fashion that bespeaks royalty for the commune. #3, this was one of the superstars today and I’d probably bestow a 93 or so on it. One of those I wish I had another taste of!
2008 Turley Dusi Vineyard Zinfandel
It’s Turley all right—plums and black cherry galore. It’s Turley all right—rocket fuel plum and blackberry pudding. A monster, this stuff will probably last close to forever. It is jammy and rich, still works as what it is, just not that much my style now. Much appreciated to Berto for contributing this bottle to the cause.
2000 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne Romanee
A true sense of mystery in the nuzzie—has a great floral element, red fruit and the undulating scenting flow of this is sublime, in a way that takes me to Emmanuel’s doorstep. Mix of berry, plum and light chestnut only serve as descriptors to the gracefulness and in-place-ness of this wine. It is sublime. #6 today.
2002 Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin
Aromatics include beguiling chestnut, earth and very Chambertin earth aromatics. This is still robust and plenty tasting, replays with a slightly sweet finish, and it is rather lovely. But I also do think that this may have been at its very best about 3 years ago. It’s been a long, long time since I had my last bottle. I would recommend you pop and pour one now if you have it.
2004 Chateau Grillet Condrieu
In-ter-est-ing. Smoky, this is. Smoked honey and peach. Gentle entry and then it bounces around the mouth with bitter quince, a touch of star fruit and a bitter melon finish. I don’t love it but I wouldn’t spit it out either. It is different from anything else Viognier out there and I am glad to have tried.
2007 Yalumba Wrattonbully Botrytis Viognier
Only ended up with the tiniest taste of this. But it did show me honey, peach and a little melon fruit in the snoot and my taste had plenty of nectarine and honeysuckle taste, with a really light butterscotch backing. A good dessert wine. My very deep thanks to my very good friend Deb for contributing this bottle to the table.
2011 Calera Mt. Harlan Viognier
Nummy smells of honey, floral and lightest lime. Tastes lovely—such balance, such length for a Viognier. There is fruit but you don’t concentrate on it because of the layers and elegance of structure. It has been too long since I’ve had one of Josh’s Viogniers, it would appear. I have some left over and am excited to retaste. #13.
2006 Calera Mt. Harlan Dessert Viognier
A late harvest, I believe. Apricots aplenty, a lot of tropical. Wow. That just floods the tongue with sweet and candy. It is also very unique and I’m glad to have tried, but not quite my style of dessert wine. I will be interested to have others’ thoughts on this one. Certainly, it’s not in any way faded after 10 years.
1999 Bouchard Pommard Les Rugiens
As mentioned above, I gave this 2 days of air and decanted on the day of. I got to it about mid-afternoon. And finally…the fruit has conquered the meat and earth that dominated the nose and palate at the outset. What has emerged is still a rugged Pommard that has lots of time yet to reach its apogee, but this is a wine in a style that I like very much for its authoritative sour cherry, earth, light smoke and chestnut presentation. I’m not sure the velvet will ever get put on the glove, but I have, I think, 2 more of these to find out. This definitely was a polarizing wine on this day.
2011 Maison Ilan Charmes Chambertin Aux Charmes Hautes
The bouquet is intriguing and difficult in its way—stinky a bit and funky, but also slashes of black cherry and nice baking spice. When I sniffed someone else’s later, the good parts of all of this had resolved quite a bit. This does have character and is still building. I like the blueberry tinge to the blackberry and spiced cherry fruit. I don’t know if it has quite enough character that speaks of high-end Charmes, but there is some decent hope here for continued development and I’ll hold onto my other bottle for some little while.
2001 Chateau Suduiraut
While the aromatics and palate are typically rich orange-centred with some vanilla and coconut, with air this seems to simplify some, which is very surprising. I suspect an off-bottle here, unfortunately, and a couple other tasters seemed to feel the same way.
2006 Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes
Expansive honeysuckle and an alluring citrus side note to the bouquet. This has just come out of hiding and is smooth, deep and delish with pear, nougat, flowers and melon rind, all without being in any way over-sweet. A bit of lanolin feel, there is a lot of wine here and it has rewarded my patience beautifully. #10
2009 Littorai Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir
Has herbs and spices and plenty of red fruit on the sniffer. Dans la bouche, strawberry and raspberry and tangy edge of basil, it has complexity lacking in so many of these and a signature for me of Littorai wines. Leaving this 2 – 3 years would be no mistake.
2011 Charles Buisson Meursault Bouches Cheres
Lemon-lime, nuts, ginger—plenty of activity. This has a roundness the others don’t—still with drive and and a real savoury element. Lime repeat and some delicious herbs. This is a tremendously engaging wine. #8
2010 Sandhill Estates Small Lot Viognier
Slice of honey with buttered melon, maybe some sweet greens in the bouquet too. Mm—that’s actually not bad! It has lots and lots of flavour—on one level, but its tasty peach and orange and tangy lemon are enjoyable. A real surprise after 6 years.
2009 Marcassin Three Sisters Chardonnay
The typical-for-me matchstick, woodsy, tropical fruit and poached pear nose. The problem is the palate, which is on the sweet side, but more is one-dimensional and flat. Don’t really know what happened here, I’ve never had an experience like this with a Marcassin Chard, but arguably the biggest disappointment of the day.
2009 DuMol Clare Chardonnay
Plenty of tropical and oak, but it all fits, and some toasted bread wafts up the glass. Custard and juicy lemon and apple greet the tongue. It has plenty of depth and carry and is also unquestionably a big-style Calichard.
2009 Gangloff Condrieu
Still a little closed in the sniffer—silvery, plenty of poached pear and also some guava perhaps. It is again rich, but I may have tried this too late in the day—it doesn’t match that richness with length or extra interest, almost just sits on the midpalate. I will try again and report back.
2000 Chateau Kirwan
Smells really good. Aromatics of tobacco, graphite, nice black plum and cassis. Very nice indeed on the palate—smooth, delectable, suave and plenty of buttressing black fruit and savoury herbs. A tremendously complete package, this is really excellent, probably about 91+ if I was going to score. #5 today and certainly one of the best reds.
2010 Rivers Marie Cabernet
Smoky chocolate covered cherries here dans le nez. In the mouth, more of that with some carry and balance. Good wine with room to improve.
2008 Quivet Kenefick Ranch Cabernet
Cherry, plum and licorice. Lots of black fruit and some underlying chocolate. Yum-my. I do mean it. Rich and bit of sweet with great plum, black cherry and touch of pomegranate, but it smooths its way right through your mouth. For-sure good. #20
2011 Pearl Morissette Dix-Neuvieme Chard
Rich nose of binned apple, toast, very edge of tangerine. With air, it’s gained a nice element of softness and suavity to go with bracing pear and what I want to say is pine nuts and pine resin. Very interesting spot for this right now.
2006 Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chard
Old wood varnish comes with an apple and pear presentation. In the mouth, quite settled and rather pretty, with just-tasty apple strudel and a small slash of almond at the back. Probably still has time.
2013 Lucien Muzard Meursault Les Meix Chavaux
A good smoked forest floor background to lemon-balm and some definite balsam in the nose. With a full day’s air, very lilting and dances across the tastebuds with white flowers, lemondrop, touch of saline at the back and some apple crisp. Quite good.
2007 Olivier Leflaive Corton Charlemagne
This presents with a little white pepper to accent apple and some fresh herbs. End of the day, it still has good presence with some lime, some ginger and some apple mixed in. In a very good place, lots of energy and activity, enjoyed by many including me. He really killed it in 2007.
2001 Chateau Coutet
Key lime pie and a sweeter apricot-based overtone. This continues to be just superb—fantastic liveliness, racy still with lime cordial and orange marmalade plays. It doesn’t have, like, 5 layers, but for sheer intellectual and sensual pleasure, this now rivals the best 01s. Bravo! #2
1984 Kalin Cellars Cuvee DD Pinot Noir
One of the more fascinating bottles, I had no idea what I’d get here. Well…even with a full day open, tons of interesting earth, light barnyard and underlying raspberry with slash of rhubarb. And this is a beauty to put in my mouth, because this is in the old style of Cali Pinot, where vivacity and acidity are king. So much active sparkly red berry fruit and amazing liveliness for, remember, 32 year old wine. A true and rare marvel, one of the great delights of my day. #4 for sheer audacity and best of the reds.
2007 Chateau Suduiraut
Inhale the tropics—papaya, mango, coconut, orange, pit fruit. This is good all right—thick and rich with plenty of honey, melon, apricot and fig bar at the sides and back. Missing just that “enough” of acidity, it may come with time—the botrytis is still present here.
2006 Poggiotone Brunello
Turbocharged bouquet of plum pudding, almost a soy note and chocolate. Yes, this attacks front and back and is plum and leather in the middle. But not a smooth, whole, harmonious showing. This will appeal to some, but not as much to me.
2001 I Faustino Rioja Gran Reserva
Quite classic, cocoa, leather, black plum. Tangy replays—it’s not a stunner, but does deliver genuine pleasure with lines, black fruit and more cocoa.
2012 Remi Jobard Meursault Poruzots-Dessus
An almost-fresh minerality here interspersed with juniper and lime. And a tremendous elegance on the tongue, great fundamental lime and minerals, but with a yellow fruit and sunshine-y frame. Very, very good and an archetype for the 2012 vintage, I think. I’m going to get more of this for sure. #14
2007 Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet Les Grands Ruchottes
This is also absolutely splendid stuff. My last wine of the night has one of the intriguing noses—butterscotch and banana glints to some bosc pear and some star fruit. It’s just drinking beautifully, fans out with some light ginger and marzipan on a toasty pear pie palate. Apple core later. Terrific wine. #17
[next day]
2013 Brundlmayer Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein
Had this while watching the Wimbledon men’s final. Bit of petrol only accents lemon and appleseed with a steely note. I like this with the day’s air—ads a rounded appley grace to still-tactile and crystal lemon and lime. Good and will surely improve with age.
2007 Luneau-Papin Muscadet de L’Or
Polished aromas of white flowers, touches of apple pie, whit fruits and dab of coriander. Drinking well, has the fresh crispness you want out of Muscadet. Granny Smith apple and unripe bosc pear base, it adds length and a trace of salinity on the finish.
2008 Francois Villard Condrieu Terrasses du Palat
Honey bue also crème brulee and some toffee. Peach cobbler aromatics too. Dans la bouche, this presents initially with a graham cracker entry to some tropical fruit notes, but still for me is relatively thin and slants away on the finish. Not over the hill at all, just with a very definite ceiling.
1997 Huet Le Mont Moelleux
So this is easily the most controversial wine. My 2nd-oldest kept bottle—I think I’ve had this 14 years, the calls at first were for corked. I thought so too, but my friend Heather exhorted me to wait it out. And—she—was—right! At least I think so (I do know some respected tasters will disagree). This morning, this is a beauty. Tantalizing bouquet of nectarine, apricot, toffee, vanilla, trace of marzipan and…sunshine. I think this is in the heart of its drinking window. Most of the aromatics are replayed but along a very tight, controlled band down the middle of the tongue and throat. Remarkably assertive and truly individual wine and experience. #15.
2009 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene
Today, aromas of plum, sweet blackberry and chocolate-dusted cinnamon and sweet cedar, all is very harmonious. Very different on the tongue, where cured meats, chickoree, some char and blackberry play out. Depth to this and smooth, but the separation of aromatics and palate makes this more of an intellectual exercise for me.
2007 Smith Haut-Lafitte Blanc
Today, grass and hay with some asparagus are very at the front. Lots of sage and rosemary. Probably fresher yesterday, there’s some apple crisp and lemon dust and it has a spike at the back. Overall, a good and interesting wine, but I was hoping for more. Will hope a Saturday taster will weigh in here.
2012 Rudius Napa Cabernet
Redolent with plum, black cherry and lots of cassis. Nips of prune, licorice and a roast beef underside. Palate is mouthfilling blue and black fruit—big enough but also bridled and very smooth and velvety, this is a very nice drink which holds its components well and an excellent example of its style. #24
2011 Pearl Morissette Cuvee Persephone Cabernet Franc
Nice slightly smoky blackberry nose. This day after, it has really great flow and balance, has such brightness and soul about it. And excellent cranberry, blackcurrant and black cherry fruit. #21.
2003 Chateau Suduiraut
Surprisingly, the aroma is rather on the fresher citrus and orange side here. Yup—hit this vintage dead-on, with luscious, creamy tropical fruit—pineapple and papaya overlaid with honey and vanilla. And this is not too heavy—it’s really very, very good, and maybe next to the 03 Climens in this vintage for me.
2013 Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay
Floral aromatics, some light pear and apple. But not much for me in the mouth, fairly sweet and not much beyond initial apple.
1995 Ronchi Cialli Schiopettino
I had never had one before. Some cedar and tomato leaf and dusting of cocoa swirls up the glass around plum and berry. Savoury here, pomegranate seed, cranberry and raspberry with a fine acidic spine. It’s hard to categorize this, though it reminds me some of Gamay.
2009 Aubert Ritchie Chard
Still young, the oak is in evidence but buttressed by that Ritchie citrus and some coconut—it’s definitely alive. And that continues on the palate, with kinetic dynamism for sure. Oak still wants a bit more time to fully integrate and peach and citrus also in the mix, but this is a place where maybe the house is already moving to a fresher style. Pretty good….says something if Aubert Ritchie, which I always love, doesn’t crack the top 25.
2011 Chateau Suduiraut
Scents of bananas. Very much crème brulee. Roasted butterscotch and even toasted marshmallow. Remember, this is 3 days out. You know the thing about this house? The thing that really comes through now that I’ve had the chance to run a vertical like this? It’s not always the most multifaceted, not always the most elegant. But it is always most delicious and hedonistic—waves of tropical fruit here with vanilla and maple fudge. I think you do this to realize that the house does truly have a style.
2010 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Les Clos
Chalk, stone, sweetish lemon and apple, but all somewhat subdued, although there’s hinted-at freshness. I wonder, though, if there’s been some kind of style change here. While this has some chalkiness and lemoncurd base, it doesn’t say much to me—and it’s not because it’s closed. Instead, this is correct without being riveting, as Les Clos should be. More like a Montee really. Or my friend Nick remarks, it minds him of Pouilly Fuisse. Not necessarily a bad thing, but it’s also not Les Clos.
2013 Veleta Vijirieja
This was my first chance to try Nola’s and Juan’s white wine. Well, now, this is a bit of summer sunshine to scent, with some sweet peas mixing into apple and some background vanilla cream. Cut greens on secondary. Gentle entry and finish, not much to find in fruit but had it warm. Cooled down on Monday, one gets some binned apple and I think perhaps guava hints. Still a light snack, but that’s as it should be and there’s value here for the price.
2010 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling
Even after 1.5 days, this is still reticent in the nuzzie, but with some coaxing, apple and a bit of petrol show. This continues to have real spine with rigourous lime and some lemoncello. A great crystal-type feel, this truly is Aussie Riesling at its best and probably will sit still for 20 years.
2012 Turley Pesenti Zinfandel
Brambles and boysenberry, but light and very enjoyable bouquet. Lots of plum underneath. OK, well, this IS a Turley Zin. There is no lack of sweet plum, pomegranate and black fruit. But it is not hot or overbearing in any way. There is zero acidity, though, and not much carry, but what’s in there has weight. More of an admire wine for me than a like wine, but in its style this is a strong entry.
1994 Joseph Phelps Cabernet
Don’t quite know about this one—wood varnish and kind of tomato-ey scents. More on the palate to get here, a very sure red cherry complemented by cinnamon heart and meat tones. It’s mature and in its window and I like the palate, just not the nose, and I want a wine to be complete.
2008 Bouchard Meursault Genevrieres
Really fine-tuned bouquet now, pears vie with lime, snip of thyme and a smoky minerality. And man, this is so consistently shudderlicious. Still fresh, but also super-long with lemon, lime a bit of sweet grapefruit and nutty finish. I could drink down a whole bottle of this and still have an ongoing conversation, not one of these bottles has disappointed me. This is absolutely super, 95, probably the best of the 8 or so that I’ve had and, remarkably #1 and WOTD.
2006 Chateau Suduiraut
And if I ever needed an exemplar for what I said above, this has to be it. Custard and bits of banana flow through honeycake bouquet. Dans la bouche, it is just so round and just-right lush and endearing as a drink. It pillow-talks your mouth and is dessert all by itself—true umami feel here. Licklicious and a great job in this vintage.
[Monday]
2006 Navarro Correas Structura Ultra Malbec
Spices—lots—and beef blood and meats are first impression. Juicy blackberry and some anise waiting underneath. Layers upon layers of chocolatey black forest cake goodness. 2 days later, this is drinking really nicely. Soft but insistent with long length. Maybe one of the better reds, the meatiness is just hinted at on the sides. A whole different look at what you can do with Malbec. #22
2010 Magrez-Aruga Koshu Isehara
So the thing is, when I was in Bordeaux in 2014 and visiting at Pape Clement, they had this on the shelf. I absolutely had to grab a bottle and it cemented my decision to have a “Final Frontiers” table. Koshu is the traditional Japanese grape. Read on, brave souls. The nose reminds me a bit of leeks and there’s also a scented soap thing here mixed with some lemongrass. Not offensive, just interesting. But on the palate, well now. Very flowery—almost liquid potpourri—drinking this cold is a must and it’ll never be mistaken for Grand Cru burg, but it is fresh and giving in its own gentle way. In fact, later, it’s orange blossom and orange….and a dead ringer for a Muskat.
2010 F & L Pillot Meursault Caillerets
Man, 2 days later this smells like a friggin’ Chevy. Pure matchstick, approaching diesel, intermixed with lilac and acacia. Herbal undertone to sweet lemon and some pear. Very pretty indeed, it drives through the mouth and down the throat without lingering, taking the hazelnut and lemongrass mains with it. In the aftertaste, a real interesting almost coffee crisp-without-the-chocolate nuance. Fascinating.
2011 Maison Roche de Bellene Meursault Charmes
A little gunflint here too, but it is less of the focus, where here light nutty tinged with butterscotch and pear and apple hold sway in the aroma. This is perhaps the gentlest and most elegant of the bunch, having perfect balance and precision as it dances across the tongue. Mists away and yet still focused with lemon, pear skin and a very slight salinity. One to meditate on.
2009 Raul Perez Sketch Albarino
I had hoped my friend Berto was wrong, but he wasn’t----nose now is showing almost a green bean thing and the palate is flat and lifeless—he said that on opening the palate was amazing but when he tasted it, the wine had gotten shot. I’ve left it with our Station Chief for Perez, Jay Shampur, and asked him to report back to me—he hopes chilling it might bring back some life. Hopefully will be able to let the readers know, but his taste last evening reflected my thoughts.
2009 Huet Le Mont Moelleux
Liquid orange blossom is my first thought. Some sweet marmalade and definite quince for me. Oh, my my! That has the best entry of anything I’ve had on the list—it drops into your mouth and sparkles there for a few seconds before sailing off. Replays are there with what I might term citrus cider if I could. Not crazy long and deep but rather evocative in its way and very good. In fact, it does show its kinship with the 97 Cuvee Constance
I also retasted all the Kutch except the 2006, notes in this thread (post 2)
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[Tuesday]
2004 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Riesling
Extremely quiet—no, flat—bouquet. Little bits of oak and lime perhaps, but…on palate, nowhere close to my last scintillating bottle. This would be another that is “correct”| for tastes of lemon, lime, bit of minerality and white pepper, but with no lasting drive, verve or character at all. I fridged the rest and checked on it the next day, but no real change. Disappointment
2008 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance
From Muscat de Frontignan, boy, does this jump your nostrils with crushed fig and sultana raisin buttertart. Heady fruity aroma. Oohhhh—different from the Le Mont, the entry on this is fig and quince but with such an incredible creaminess. The action is all at the front of the tongue and throat and it almost skips through the midpalate. But for purity of expression, kudos. A wine I’d love to have more of. #23
2009 Chateau Suduiraut
Today, sort of sweaty, caramel-sided scents. Getting at the fruit is difficult. In the mouth, though, it is very solid stuff. Vanilla cream with edges of quince and star fruit, this is one where the for-me signature orange is completely absent. Botrytis is still in evidence and this’ll be a 20-30 year wine. It is one of the more elegant Suds that I’ve tasted, would just want more on the nose. Long, long aftertaste, though I wouldn’t categorize it yet as multidimensional. This was from a full.
2012 Pfeffingen Scheurebe
This is still, 3 days later, fresh as anything with potpourri surrounding applesauce and tart white grape. No one will be bowled over by this. But yummy? You bet yummy. Can you say yummy? This is just plain yummy, with lilting sweet lilac-infused juicy fruit stuff going on. It playfully makes its way through my mouth. Don’t leave one of these for decades, but what a fine value this wine is. Must…get…more in current vintages.
2009 Alpha & Omega Chard
If there was acidity here, it’s gone now, unfortunately. Quite perfumey, musky aromatics today with melon fruit in the mix. I do think this may have been better a couple years ago, as right now the alcohol seems to have taken hold It has a somewhat heavy, tropical presence without counterbalancing acid. To be fair, it has been 3 days and was likely better on Saturday.
2004 Gravner Amphylos Ribolla Gialla
On day 3, the colour of sherry-casked whisky. It is almost vermilion. And that is only the start of this most unique of wine experiences. The bouquet today speaks of saltwater taffy and there’s plenty of vanilla custard too. Maybe kumquat as well. But there’s none of that at all dans la bouche. This attacks the front of the mouth and then has this peaty/whisky thing going on along with nuttiness that definitely has me thinking vin jaune. Truly unique.
2012 Moon Curser Tannat
Plenty of cherry liqueur here is tempered by some bacon and a dash of mustard seed. Fairly straightforward now with some bacon echo to the red fruit. A portion of velvety feel, but not that dynamic a wine today. Will like food, though, and there’s still some peppercorn nuance at the back
2009 DuMol Isobel Chard
I like the understated complexity of aromatics—moving from white pear and buttercream biscuit to some light herbs and spiciness. Doesn’t stay pinned down. The taste, I’m not sure what to make of this—certainly tastes mature and has this mix of marmalade, unripe pineapple, but also a sort of bitter baked apple. No question it does have length and drive, and one of those I’m the sorriest about trying 3 days later. I imagine this has suffered a bit even though I transferred it to halfsie. There are good lines here.
2009 DuMol Chloe Chard
Even more rounded complexity than the Isobel, maple smoke is hinted at around light pear and toffee and a little star fruit too. This has held up well and is quite balanced and delicious, the slight shivers of pralines & cream and some sweetness only accent a white fruit centre with some dry mustard shakes. It is long, undulating, very smooth and in its optimum drinking window. Really very good, and I’m not dumping any of the pour, with fewer wines, may well have been in a top-20.
2014 Domaine des Molardes Chasselas
Some greens, some cheese, some lilacs—such are the scents here. Tasty enough with a citrus and verbena lemon entry and a little aromatic replay. Very contained, though, and not much finish. Nevertheless, decent quaff.
2011 Casarena Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
The only “crossover” bottle between dad and me—we joke that every bottle over $30 belongs to him and every bottle under $30 belongs to me. This still has its share of plums, cocoa and ripe boysenberry, perhaps even a blueberry tinge. Drinks rather like a merlot—very, very soft and sweetish plum sauce and black cherry compote. It’s no vin de garde, but neither is it undrinkable—the core of plush does have some tannic bite still that grabs the roof of my mouth
2012 Norman Hardie Cuvee L Chard
The overt oak on this is quite distracting. It has apple notes, but hard to pin them down. Le gout is a bit more restrained, it has a certain attractive saline side and a backbreathe of sandalwood and pineapple, but not something connecting it in the middle. Ok, but not great.
2010 Bott Geyl Schlossberg Riesling
The lime and fresh-washed stones are still so purely evocative in the bouquet. Smells like you’re on the mountainside by the creek. This continues its youthful showing, still with tremendous verve and snap. Where it falls off after the 3 days is a more truncated finish than usual, but no lack of characterful lemon, lime and acacia presence. High quality here. Should be at its peak in about 3 years. #25
2009 Peter Michael La Carriere Chard
Demure toffee and nougat under tangerine and white fruit aroma. On the palate, it skates across with a ballerina’s elegance—amazingly light tracings and yet leaves you tasting the aromatic replays with apple pie and vanilla ice cream. It maybe is too controlled, as there is no second gear, but that’s nitpicking over a fine, fine wine.
2010 Sojourn Home Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon
Some dill, yes, but also dark chocolate, espresso bean, cedar and blackberry. Very fluid, very sensitive and very engaging mouthful of wine. From entry to finish, it all flows extremely well, it all makes sense, with just-chewy dark cherry, plum, pine needle accent and dark cocoa all mixed in. This is great wine ,#16
2014 Schug Pinot Noir
Well—isn’t this the nice surprise. All this time later, cinnamon bun around lively strawberry fruit sniffs. An almost-nervy style for Sonoma, sour cherry, a glance of rhubarb and strawberry do work together with notional cinnamon heart at the end. This also is a fine bottle in its individualistic way, perhaps a faint echo for me of the superlative 84 Kalin DD.
1994 Broadbent VP
When I first opened it and thought to decant, there seemed to be no need, so joyful was the rich raisin, bread and plum pudding showing. 3 days later, fig bar and some molasses have taken over the bouquet. On the palate, it retains that very elevated sweetness, but now it’s without the freshness of that first day and fades into blackstrap molasses and dark raisin. Glad I tasted it on the Friday night to see the difference. As long as you don’t drink it day of, you should have no complaints. I’d suggest a 3-4 hour decant at most. Very glad to have my first port from this house.
2004 Kracher #3 Traminer Nouvelle Vague TBA
Hurrah—someone DID save this for me. The sad news? The small save was in a fully open halfsie for 3 days till I detected it. The good news? There is still a pure expression of apricot fudge. Yeah, that’s how I’d describe it. I’m sure there was more vivacity on Saturday. Still a joy to consume.
2004 Quintarelli Valpolicella
I don’t know if this is slightly oxidized so much as very Veneto/amarone in nature, with raisins, prunes and grapey sniffs. The palate remains quite elegant and has some tart feel to the funky overripe plum and raisin flavours. Even 5 days after opening (and this was opened and decanted a full two days before the event), a wine of interest for me.
2013 Closson Chase Closson Chard
There’s a wee bit of sulphur, but it doesn’t distract from a gingerbread and apple crisp nose. On the tongue, though, this sort of collapses. Just starts with some tart citrus and then doesn’t go anywhere. A reminder, it’s been 3 days in a halfsie now, so would want to give a fresh bottle a chance.
2012 Moss Wood Chard
Herb and mineral-tinged lemon, possibly a little sweet corn in back. This has good feel and texture, a thread of grapefruit acidity running through, but misses diversity and character, with just some lemon-water and small trace of unripe tangerine. I’ve had better from here.
2004 Long Shadows Feather Cabernet
The only wine I mislabelled, this 12 year old is showing some old wood and forest floor impressions to go with dried cherry and crabapple. Curious dans la bouche, as up front there is tangy redcurrant with nutme, but a hit of sweet plum and cherry and cocoa gets you at the back. Disconnected, but no lack of interest.
2012 Bachelder Saunders Chard
I am a fan of the matchstick, ginger, candied nut and pear aromatics. Le gout, this is a light, fanciful expression but has good repays. Adds a trickle of grapefruit. Will try again with food, which I have a feeling will intensify the wine.
2011 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc
WOW! The nettles and gooseberry and capsicum are absolutely the most intense I’ve ever smelled. There are people who don’t like this profile. Fine, but for those who do, this aroma is riveting. Real steel in the schnozz and in the mouth, with equal intensity to the nose. Kiwi fruit borders the replays and everything is marvellously alive. If you want to identify NZ Savvy, come hither pilgrim. This is dee-lish with a gorgeous herbs de Provence underpinning. #19
2010 Malivoire Old Vines Marechal Foch
Curious sort of christmascake scents. Plums lurk with boysenberry. Sad to say, this is past the post. Tomato leaf and tired raspberry can’t keep up. Not as much a function of 3 days’ open, I never know exactly how long to age these. Ah, well.
2012 Hidden Bench Tete de Cuvee Chard
Subdued but complicated bouquet suggests hibiscus, stone fruit, lilac and unripe honeydew. This is quite nice indeed, with gentle entry but insistent midpalate. Today, oak and acidity and the apple pie and marzipan flavours all work together as a team. Without a true memorable aspect, it is very complete and enjoyable nonetheless.
That’s everything, I think, except the 2011 Quivet Pellet and that may still be hiding at my parents’ place, and the 2003 Suduiraut which I couldn’t remember if I’d tasted—I have a little left and will try today (now Wednesday).
Slainte, truly!
Mike
The nose is a bit sweaty with oranges and pith. On the palate, slightly sweet, slightly tart. Slick texture. Great. Plenty of fruit although not ripe. Finishes slightly bitter bit not in a bad way. Demanded a bit of food. (93 pts.)
Or maybe like Dan, I will chuck the note taking and be liberated. 
