WHITE BURGUNDY AT ASTORIA - (27/5/2024)
They couldn’t fit 11 people at a table so we had to split up
Our table’s wines
- NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru l’Ouverture Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
2019 disgorgement. Better than the previous bottle last year, rich red fruit but had better acidity. (91 pts.) - 2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Think others didn’t like this that much but I thought this was fantastic - clearly a great old-school maker but thought it was a Boillot/Pierre Morey. Warm fruit that made me guess 2015. Before Lafon’s style change so more honey notes and less reduction, prefer this to the newer style since it’s more difficult to find white Burgundy of this ilk anymore. Superb for a village, which reinforced my point that a good producer’s village will always outshine a poorer maker’s better plots. (94 pts.) - 2016 Michel Bouzereau et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Had a menthol note with a bitter finish (that should have pointed me to 2016) but otherwise thought this was enjoyable with air. Good weight to the white orchard fruit that made me guess Corton Charlie, pleasant if not memorable. (91 pts.) - 2020 Maison Fang Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Guetottes Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Obviously a cult new-school maker, guessed 2020 Aligoté at first because of the ripe fruit and overbearing acidity. Got much better with air, ripe but tensile orchard fruit that reminded me of Les Horées Aligoté, i.e. enjoyable hipster juice. Interestingly, I mentioned that this maker’s reds were awful but apparently the winemaker readily admits that because he isn’t a big fan of reds. (92 pts.) - 2017 Yves Boyer-Martenot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
My contribution. Slightly sweet and tropical to begin with, but gained minerality with time in the glass so someone managed to impressively guess as a MP. Old-school in style with a generous dose of oak, ripe fruit but austere winemaking so this needed time to open up nicely. (92 pts.) - 2005 Joseph Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Brought for a friend. I bought this based on a superb '05 Drouhin Folatieres I had a couple of years back, but this was halfway to premox with shrill, sherry notes. NR (flawed)
The other table’s wines
- 2003 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Most thought premoxed but actually this showing was consistent with previous notes that suggested that this vintage was a miss. Honeyed, tropical fruit with nutty, oxidative tones. Rather flabby and lacked tension for the huge frame, would have thought northern Rhone white. (85 pts.) - NV Maison Leroy Bourgogne Blanc Fleurs de Vignes (2015 Release) - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Apparently a trilogy of vintages with some Puligny Champs Gains thrown in. Vibrant and floral fruit with good acidity, on release price it was a no-brainer but not worth the current prices. (91 pts.) - 2020 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Obviously youthful but clearly another top wine from an old-school winemaker, guessed Ramonet this time round. Round and creamy texture even though apparently this was reductive at first. Textbook example of superb matière; an iron fist in velvet glove kind of wine. A gorgeous wine even if it wasn’t quite ready for primetime yet. (94 pts.) - 2018 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Waxy and round texture with sappy fruit; definitely more CdB-like so most including myself actually went for Leflaive when we saw the yellow wax. Clearly a wine of pedigree with its poise and balance, but more about potential at this juncture. (93 pts.) - 2021 Alex Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Was told one of the pair was a Moreau and was obvious that this was it. Top-class winemaking with perfectly judged oak use and rich, buttery fruit, but finish had a little of the ‘21 herbaceous note. (92 pts.) - 2022 Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Haut de La Roche - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé
After a miserable night of guessing I managed to guess this as a young Mâcon. Felt this was too overt and waxy, lacked tension and depth. Not a fan of the Verget négoce wines. (87 pts.) - 2010 Domaine de L’Arlot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
A little brooding but had the balance of 2010. Some obvious stem use with dark spice; cool cherry fruit with slightly dusty tannins. (92 pts.)
