We get too few Berserkers’ visits to our shores. So I was very excited and pleased to welcome John and Kristin to Toronto. We met a couple years ago at FallTacular and they were here to start a week-long visit to Ontario and Quebec. On Friday night, John had booked at Actinolite and a suddenly-free me tagged along. Chef Justin was wonderfully attentive and at the top of his game and huge thanks to Merrin and Andrew (? I think/hope that’s right) for taking such good care of us. In particular, Chef did a special dish for me, celery root in walnut milk (as a substitute for the oyster dish I couldn’t have) which was one of the best things he’s made, IMHO.
2013 Alzinger Steinertal Riesling
For me, the big 5 are Prager, Hirtzberger, F.X. Pichler, Knoll and Alzinger, and they all have different characteristics (Prager’s precision and classicism, Hirtzberger’s structure and authority, Pichler’s intensity, Knoll’s richness). I’ve had the least amount of Alzinger but it has always shown me a level of refinement that is my benchmark for the house. No different here, this combined lemon, lime and apple peel in a very lithe-but-gentle frame and was a joy to drink, and already quite open just 5 years out.
2015 Kutch Sonoma Coast Pinot
I think this was the last year Jamie pulled from Stagecoach and Campbell Ranch for this cuvee. If so, this last was the best. Firm presence of bright strawberry and just-sweet cherry fruit on the bouquet and palate, this is a happy wine that wants to engage with and be in your mouth. Very nice, no particular rush but certainly fine to start drinking now.
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Rose de Pinot Noir
Found this pretty on Anthony Yambor’s shelf in his store in Atlanta and snapped it up. Pink grapefruit, unripe pomegranate and tinge of wild strawberry aromatics and replays with gentle but firm acidity makes for a rose that is, as many of his wines are, a step above the norm. Delightful in its muted and controlled exuberance, almost a tease
On Saturday, after Souvlaki lunch at Astoria, it was off to one of my faves in the city, Mengrai Thai. Allen, Dave and the rest of the team there took fine care of us (we were joined by Tran Bronstein and Jay Shampur) and Chef Sasi was at the absolute top of her game with pleased moans and noises being made about everything from the signature #54 chicken to the tilapia with peppercorn and tamarind to the lamb curry and my crispy beef.
2006 Zind-Humbrecht Heimbourg Ries
Very nice bring indeed from Jay, shows a deep burnished yellow. Good dollop of custard swirls up the glass, along with touches of mango and apple. To taste, it has a nice creamy feel and is not too, too sweet at all. Goes very well with the appetizers, but I’m glad we had it tonight as I wouldn’t give it (at least this bottle) more than another 2 years. Good wine here.
2011 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Ries
The first of two Donnhoffs the Webbers brought with them. Like the 15s (for me), this is a great vintage for accessibility and both of these were on fire. The Oberhauser presents with loads of apple crisp (cinnamon dusting and all) and a sneaky sweet lime note underneath. It is quite sweet but also perfectly fresh and very much a Donnhoff. Yum
2011 Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Ries
My slightly preferred of the two, this adds a very small petrol note and some length and complexity at the cost of some of the bright sweetness of the Oberhauser. There is more frame and “maturity” in terms of presence and authority here. Really fine.
2011 Ceritas Martin Ray Chard
My contribution, and with the food I guessed it would be a square peg in a round hole, but I did want to find out, and I did want to open it. Still laser precision on nose and tongue here, lemondrop, green apple and crushed mineral. What has changed is that any searing level of acidity has been completely absorbed and any oak has now been fully integrated. I rarely have Santa Cruz-sourced chard this old and this is the argument for patience. It was lovelylicious…but very much a square peg in a round hole.
1996 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon
Since Tran was with us, I knew I didn’t have to worry about dessert 
Nevertheless, very generous of him to offer this. There’s a combination of sort of nougat, custard cream and notions of fennel and vanilla that all have understated harmony. It’s very hard to describe a Moulin Touchais until you’ve had one. Still, I told Tran this would be too young and indeed it was. The (usual) 10 more years of bottle age will do this a great deal of good. I was happy to try this at an early stage to see the potential, for sure.
As I was letting John and Kristin off, I said this and meant it with all of my being----I love FallTacular because I get to see 150 friends at once. I hate FallTacular because I don’t get to spend real time with any of them…there are so many people to see and so many wines to sample. This sort of visit? It drives me. I loved my time with them and hope to replicate it with a visit to Texas sometime soon.
Kwa Heri,
Mike
