1997 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate- USA, California, Napa Valley (12/10/2009)
14.0% alcohol. A baby still, but a delightful, concentrated, tasty baby at that. Dark red/purple in the glass. Tremendously complex bouquet of black berry fruit with that typical Napa warmth about it, cedar, spice box, tobacco, and earth. In the mouth, it would be bone-crushing if it weren’t so damn refined and balanced. Great concentration. Extremely complex. The picture of the finest Napa has to offer, with many years of pleasure left ahead. A
1997 Forman Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled Napa Valley- USA, California, Napa Valley (12/10/2009)
13.0% alcohol. Further along than the Montelena, but still youthful. Dark red color. Amazingly pure bouquet of black fruit, tobacco, and earth. In the mouth, graceful and concentrated. This is just the style of Cab I love. Fruit-forward but not giving up its natural complexity for the sake of it. Balanced, concentrated, and pure, this just unfolds and keeps going. A marathon racer with perfect style. A
1997 Spring Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve- USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District (12/10/2009)
14.0% alcohol. Another winner on this night of 97s. Decanted. Dark red/purple color. Exotic nose of spice, currant, and cedar. In the mouth, powerful and robust, with plenty of fruit but supported by ample complexity. Strong acidity that is the only thing that keeps the balance from being impeccable. Long finish with beautifully integrated tannins. Drinking well now but with plenty of life ahead. A-
Thanks, Tom. Oh, how I would have LOVED to try that Forman.
I have been less than impressed with the '97’s, though - I found that neighboring years are performing better right now, and many '97’s from Napa seem to be going downhill rather rapidly, or, if nothing else, not living up to the hype.
Great notes. Not much of a Napa fan these days, but I very much like the '97 Montelena. It severely outclassed the '97 Insignia, which was simple and unfocused in comparison, about a year ago.
I don’t mean to be too much of a romantic, but I’m surprised at how rarely I hear CA wine lovers talk about sense of place. Last night I had a discussion with friends and I concluded: When reading only tasting notes, it’s often very difficult to distinguish whether the taster is referring to a CA Cab, Grenache, Merlot, and occasionally even Pinot. Hell, read writers like JL and you can throw Syrah and Mourvedre in there.
I understand that CA is still young, but I believe it’s moved beyond the nascent wine stages. I have my own thoughts about what a Napa Cab, for example, often evokes, but I’d love to hear from some others about what they appreciate about CA appellations and how certain varieties show in certain places.
What is CA Grenache supposed to be, anyway?
And to some extent my comment might risk sounding like I expect wines to fit nicely into a simple box. Not so. Each appellation is capable of so many nuanced expressions. But I do believe that a clearly defined place tends to bring some clearly established attributes to wine.
Good thought, Evan. Certainly there are “international style” issues to explore there, as well as inherent grape characteristic issues. All fun to discuss, though. I do find a warmth to the fruit in Napa, which I play off against the “coolness” of Bordeaux fruit. Not trying to imply warmth of alcohol, naturally.
The Forman was outstanding, my favorite of the bunch. I’ve never had a Forman wine I didn’t like. Just superb stuff.
Right - I didn’t take it to mean hot. I took it to mean the kind of warmth that a rich, complex red wine can deliver. I thought it was particularly effective at conveying your idea.
Thanks, Evan. Yeah, meant to say I didn’t think you took it wrong … it’s that warm climate expression of the fruit. Amazing but not surprising the impact that sort of thing has on a wine.
Wow, I have a ton of both and the 97 Insignia has always been great. Different strokes I guess. I still have cases of both wines and plan to enjoy them all.
The 97 Montelena was the last wine I actually enjoyed from them. After that, I felt they went downhill and their Cab was not very inspiring. But the 97 was pure joy . Glad to hear its drinking well, unfortunately I have been out of that wine for a # of years.
97 Insignia is an absolutely excellent wine as is the Caymus SS 97. Absolutely awesome and has years left on it for sure.
I also like 97 Profile.
My biggest disappointment in 2009 was how Opus One 97 fell apart as compared to a few years ago. I truly enjoyed that vintage of Opus (94 and 95 as well).
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