Just back from a quick trip to Osaka, wine pricing wasn’t as sharp as Tokyo lists during my trip last year, but still had some gems.
WINES IN OSAKA - (13/9/2024-17/9/2024)
Wines at RShamp（ルシャンプ【旧店名】Shamp）
A hole-in-the-wall bar with a good variety of champagnes to try by the glass, pricing slightly expensive.
- NV Minière F & R Champagne Absolu Blanc De Blancs Brut - France, Champagne (13/9/2024)
More linear and citrus fruit than the D-G Les Nogers alongside, but less depth and concentration. Pleasurable (albeit a little angular) without being memorable. (90 pts.) - 2018 Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Nogers - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (13/9/2024)
Slightly natural leaning; creamy texture and some oxidative apple notes. Better depth than the Minière alongside but to be honest I struggle to see why the pricing is so ambitious for his wines. (92 pts.)
Lunch at Liaison
Fantastic lunch at Liaison, one of the best value meals that I’ve had this year. Good fusion of Japanese and French techniques, very strong food and wine list where I got to pop two wine cherries.
- 2004 Domaine Prieuré Saint Christophe Vin de Savoie Mondeuse Tradition - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie (14/9/2024)
An incredibly intense and floral nose that reminded me of a top Burgundy, with layered dark red fruit on both the nose and the palate. So pretty and silky with a linear drive, I loved this wine despite its slightly fading fruit. Some vignerons truly had the magic touch to make wines with such unique character. (94 pts.) - 2006 Château-Grillet (Neyret-Gachet) Château-Grillet - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Château-Grillet (14/9/2024)
My first Chateau Grillet. I expected something viscous and honeyed like most Viogniers but was pleasantly surprised about the freshness here. Superb weight and intensity with the slightest hint of unctuous, honeyed fruit and cinnamon spice; lovely aromatics that deserved a larger glass. Can see why this was ranked alongside Montrachet (and why it has fallen out of favour with the change in food preferences), wouldn’t necessarily seek this out but an educational experience to have tried this. Best northern Rhone white that I’ve tried along with Vernay’s Coteau de Vernon. (93 pts.)
Wines at Wine Bistro Hanaki Saketen
Was glad to have discovered this superb wine bar in Osaka with a lovely familial atmosphere and an incredible array of wines.
- 2006 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de Mon Père - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (14/9/2024)
My first Les Vignes de Mon Père and thankfully wasn’t disappointed. Started off a little too sharp with the signature Ganevat acidity and citrus fruit when it was cold, but transformed into a very complete wine as it warmed up. Incredible freshness for - but with the complexity of - an 18 year old wine. Loved the combination of electricity and power, a wine that captivated your attention as every sip brought more layers and depth. Truly a singular, monumental wine. (95 pts.) - 2012 Domaine Denis Bachelet Côte de Nuits Villages - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages (14/9/2024)
Rare to find a wine bar that carries back vintages of such humble wines, was happy to discover this when rummaging through their wine fridge. Rustic, earthy fruit with some spice that spoke of classic winemaking; lovely acidity and crunch to the fruit. An elegant and balanced old-school Burg in the mould that I like very much. (92 pts.)
Wines at Wine Bistro Hanaki Saketen (again)
Decided to go back and glad to have discovered new producers and friends.
- 2022 La Pierre Ronde Ladoix 1er Cru Les Gréchons Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Ladoix 1er Cru (15/9/2024)
Not familiar with this producer but seems like one of those new-school makers with tiny production and ambitious pricing. Ripe, excessively tropical fruit that was better as the wine warmed up. Felt overworked to me as the winemaking was too heavy-handed. (90 pts.) - 2022 Domaine Labet Pinot Noir Les Varrons - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (15/9/2024)
Fresh, wild strawberry and cranberry fruit. Barely any tannins, drank like a fun, juicy Bojo that saw some semi-carbonic maceration . (91 pts.) - 2018 Kusuda Pinot Noir - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough (15/9/2024)
My contribution to the table. Wow my first Kusuda and I am sold. Explosive stemmy nose that got even better with air. Vibrant red fruit with some earth, appreciated that it had more classic savoury elements without any jamminess of new-world Pinots. Excellent acidic spine that gave it a good balance. Much more convinced by this than Bell Hill. (94 pts.)
Wines at l’ange vin
BTG at another hole-in-the-wall wine bar. Bottles were mostly marked to market.
- 2021 Rudolf Fürst Bürgstadter Spätburgunder - Germany, Franken (17/9/2024)
Mix of candied fruit and almost Rhone-like smoky bacon notes on the nose. Palate had good restraint and balance; easygoing and drinkable young. A little unfair to put this beside the excellent M-G. (90 pts.) - 2021 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne Les Lutenières - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (17/9/2024)
Seems like I have good luck finding M-G by the glass in Japan. Signature dark spicy fruit, excellent balance and structure for a Bourgogne. Fruit had delineation and transparency, quite similar to the other M-G ‘21s I tried in Tokyo last year. Nose became sweeter and more floral with air. Punched well above its weight. (93 pts.)
Wines at Mille Caresses
Very strong wine list, with DRC BTG!
- 2019 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (17/9/2024)
By the glass, was the last quarter of a coravin bottle but I couldn’t pass because of the price. Took time to unfurl in the glass; stem use was obvious, eventually had an incredibly intoxicating spicy, floral nose. Palate was lush without being overly candied like some 2019s, just missing the ethereal nature that I expected. Approachable now. (94 pts.) - NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Le Rosé - France, Champagne (17/9/2024)
2021 base, 3.5g/l dosage, disgorged Dec 2023. Fresh, delicate strawberry fruit with good energy and minerality. Always a reliable producer up and down the range. (91 pts.)
And notes from a dinner before I went to Osaka
CASUAL WINES AT YANG MING UBI - (12/9/2024)
With high-school friends
- 2016 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz
Not too sweet for a Spätlese but also meant that this came across a little thin and dilute. (87 pts.) - 2014 Sottimano Barbaresco Currá - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Slightly autumnal, earthy dark red fruit. Tannins not as refined and overall not as pretty as the other cuvées, my favourite remains the Fausoni. (90 pts.) - 2021 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Barnabés - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
Usually a fan of this producer but this was a miss. Had Loire Cab Franc pyrazines but also a glossy texture, which made it seem like it was trying too hard for the quality of fruit that was present. (87 pts.) - 2023 Marcel Lapierre Morgon N (Sans Soufre) - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
First time trying the N, seems like 2023 was a larger production since I’ve never seen it on sale before? Found it to have purer, sweeter fruit similar to other sans soufre cuvées. Stylistically quite similar to Foillard with crunchy red fruit, but with slightly more brett and acidity. (92 pts.)
