Since Holdredge is too busy running for president, I had to delve into more old Joseph Swan on a very short, recent trip out to RRV. Naturally, though, there were some real treats here. Even the Gamay, which was past its prime, was interesting taken on its own terms. It’s been a while since I’ve posted – working life having been really running roughshod over me – so I hope this contribution will restart some regular posting, mostly TNs. I won’t deluge everyone with a bunch of back notes, just those that seem pertinent as we go down the road. Cheers.
1968 Joseph Swan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon- USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/21/2011)
This bottle was a marvel. First vintage of Swan, made from Pedroncelli grapes. An uncannily youthful wine. Solid red color. Gorgeous nose of black fruit, pipe tobacco, mushrooms, and forest floor. An intoxicating bouquet that gives off the warm feel of an old house in winter. In the mouth, the texture was like fine Burgundy, velvety and caressing, giving you the sense of ethereal transport as the lively and still kicking fruit washed over the palate, only to be followed up with endless layers of complexity that, while prominent, never let you forget that this remains a fruit-driven bottle of wine. Long, sumptuous finish. Maybe Joe Swan didn’t know what he was doing back then … maybe this was just a lucky bottle. But sometimes you’ve got to revel in a bit of luck. A
1974 Joseph Swan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon- USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/21/2011)
A really beautiful wine. Brick red color, though more solid red in the center of the glass. Mature nose of forest floor, spice box, cigar box, and dried currant. In the mouth, fully resolved and showing terrific balance – not tired in the least. The mouth feel was soft and graceful, allowing the layers of complexity to unfold. A bit clipped on the finish, but a very good old wine indeed. A-
1970 Joseph Swan Vineyards Gamay Sonoma County- USA, California, Sonoma County (8/18/2011)
Brownish-red color. This is definitely on its last legs and past its prime. Composting leaves, wet earth, and not much else on the nose. In the mouth, some liveliness is left in the acidic structure, but there’s little fruit and mostly earthy, complex notes. An interesting wine from a historical point of view, but its best life seems to have passed. C+
1975 Joseph Swan Vineyards Zinfandel Sonoma County- USA, California, Sonoma County (8/18/2011)
At full stretch but still holding on. Brick red color. Pretty nose of wet forest floor, dried cherry and blackberry, and earth. In the mouth, refined and balanced, showing restraint and elegance, but also still a good dose of fruit. Gets a little tired in the mid-palate, as the forest floor notes become quite pronounced. Fades a bit on the finish. But a really nice old wine. B+
I forgot to mention above that, as always, great thanks to Rod and Lynn for their incredible generosity in sharing these wines. The life and passion behind these wines, even dating back to the first vintage in 1968, never ceases to astound me. It is invigorating to drink them – particularly in such good company.
Nice notes as always Tom Interesting on the 1968 Cab as I didn’t know the Pedroncelli familys vineyard holdings reached down to the RRV. I have allways had a soft spot for the Pedroncelli’s as my Aunt and Uncle lived next to one of brothers vineyard in Alexander Valley and it was the first winery I visited, only 7 or 8 at the time though.
Thanks again, dudes. Sean – you know, this may have only been Sonoma County fruit and not necessarily RRV … but I wasn’t sure how to put the wine in CT. So I just added it to the longest string of Swan Cabs.
Every time I read one of your Swan posts, Tom, I go and check my cellar to remind myself exactly which bottle I have. It is the 1987 Sonoma County Zinfandel. If you ever venture over to this side of the hill on a future trip, give a holler and I will share it with you.
Tom,
It was great seeing you guys. Sorry about the Gamay. Other bottles over the years have been almost immortal. It took about 15 years before it started to taste like anything other than blackberry juice and has never shown any signs of going away. That bottle had a lot of ullage and the cork was stained to the top. I am sure that we have a few more buried in the cellar. I will check them to make sure that they are not in need of recorking and put one aside for the next time I see you. I am confident that it was just that bottle and would like for you to taste one in its prime.
Busy week this week. Bottling all pinot noirs except the Estate. Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay (Kent the Younger) coming in on Tuesday.
Rod, are you really apologizing? But I won’t say no to the Gamay again, either! Haha. Great wines. Always great wines. Yet the company somehow always seems to trump it …
Me, I’m looking forward to some of this 2010 Ritchie Chard. That was smoking, even having just been bottled.
I had a pristine bottle of the wine last night and it was unreal. Pure blackberry liqueur when we opened it, and then some eucalyptus and herbs came out. Incredibly fresh.