POST-VACCINE ERA; RESUMING OUR CHARITY WINE DINNERS - Samish Hill, Bellingham, WA (6/6/2021)
A long-delayed wine dinner, from a 2019 charity auction benefiting Brigid Collins Family Support Center (http://www.brigidcollins.org/). I typically try to make classic pairings. This time, the 8 couples who placed the winning bid were all friends. I was too busy organizing and cooking to take formal notes.
Arrival; Beautiful Rosé
I wanted to open something before eating, and this was the perfect start. While this wasn’t a particularly vinocentric group, none of them (nor I) had ever had a rosé quite like this. It was a great start to the evening. Almost everyone photographed the label (good luck to them trying to find this one…)
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2016 Château Le Puy Francs Côtes de Bordeaux Rose-Marie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
I was expecting it to be good, and it far exceeded my expectations.
Champagne and caviar
Dom and caviar, some with deviled eggs, some with toast points, crème fraîche and shallot.
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2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
Smokey, balanced, but seemed more reticent, less open than other ‘09s I’ve been sampling. It said “give me some time.”
Ceviche and Comtes
I made two outstanding fresh ceviche; one halibut, one scallop. The Comtes paired quite well.
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2007 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
I bought these because they came as a package deal with the 2008’s. I’m glad I did. I really like this vintage of Comtes. Less showy than the 2006, less doughy than the ‘02, less tension than the 2004, but possessing a freshness and elegance unique unto itself.
Charcuterie
Great cheese plate with yuzu marmalade and marcona almonds in honey, and a charcuterie plate with La Quercia Proscuitto and Speck, and some wonderful mole and finocchiona salame. My friends didn’t know I have so many Californian (and Oregonian) wines.
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2014 Liquid Farm Chardonnay Bien Bien - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Expressive, forward wine without being too lusty. It seemed very early in its maturation. I love most of what I’ve tried from LF, and this was no exception. -
2013 Ceritas Pinot Noir Elliott Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Lean and green but in a nice way (guessing whole clusters). This opened up with air, restrained deliciousness.
Foie gras terrine with Sauternes
I usually sear fresh foie gras, but this simplified the dinner, and was actually very nice.
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2001 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Suduiraut knocked it out of the park in 2001. Another superb bottle. Paired perfectly with foie gras terrine, and later, surprisingly with pan seared Flannery Rudd steak with garlic horseradish aioli.
Inaudi Egg Tagliatelle with summer truffles
It was too early in the season for Australian winter truffles, which I prefer this time of year. I augmented with some nice truffle butter and truffle oil. These noodles are very thirsty, and if my friends knew how much butter went into them, they’d be scheduling their cardiac stress tests this week. Fortunately, some of the fat added was Guiseppe Quintarelli olive oil.
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1964 Cantina Terre Del Barolo Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
I thought I had stood this up in the cellar a few months, but I might have been mistaken. Fine sediment flowed early, despite using a decanting stand. I forgot to decant this early in the day. At first (one hour into decant), any remaining fruit was restrained, and it was mostly mushrooms, earth and acid. After four or five hours in the decanter, this metamorphosed into a beautiful example of mature, well made Nebbiolo from a good vintage. The change electrified the attendees (and me). Give this one some air. -
2015 La Ca’Növa Barbaresco Vigna Bric Mentina Montefico - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
I opened this after the ‘64 Terre de Barolo, to contrast old vs young Nebbiolo. It was very good. Dark fruited, generous but soft tannins. It would be a case purchase had I space in the cellar.
Flannery beef with a fine Cabernet
I pan seared Flannery Rudd steaks (which along with the Jorge are my favorite cuts), and made a garlic and horseradish aioli. This turned out incredibly well.
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1994 Fisher Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wedding Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County
I bought this at an auction, mostly because a friend who bids on my wine dinners likes this and is on their mailing list. Also, because I visited Fred many years ago and he dropped everything and hung out with me for most of the morning.
This is a magnificent mature Sonoma Cabernet. Tannins are mostly resolved; it’s at the perfect intersection of secondary and tertiary. Generous but moderated, really a thing of beauty.
Late night post-prandial sparkler
We were all too full for dessert. I had planned Stilton cheese or chocolate and a nice vintage port. I decided to go with a rosé champagne. It was my only choice of the night that wasn’t perfect. I needed a more stand-alone wine, and this just didn’t show as well as any of my previous bottles of P-J.
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NV Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne Extra Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
We ended the night with this bottle. I buy and drink a lot of this, but we caught this bottle at a grumpy place. More savory and bitter than past bottles, it would have done much better with food than as a night cap. Not defective, but very different than previous bottles.
It was great to resume these tasting dinners, although I’m out of practice. I totally underestimated how much time the prep and service (and cleaning!) would take. Great food, wine, laughter and conversation, and all for a good cause. Cheers!